Rebolting Lava Falls

[Poppy]

Saw some comments on other threads about Clint, Eric and Brian replacing the bolts on Lava Falls.  I have one thing to say...THANK YOU!!111

Those old bolts were not inspiring!

[squiddo]

ditto Poppy.

[mynameismud]

Here is the status of Lava Falls
All the original bolts have been replaced. 
The first 4 bolts were replaced a while back and are 3/8 wedge bolts with Metolius anchors  I am not sure who did this work but Brad probably knows.
The rest of the bolts are 3/8 x 3.5 stainless steel rawl with Fixe hangers
The crux bolt was a 3/8 which was probably fine but we replaced it with a 1/2 x 6.5 glue in.

The anchor chains have for been equalized.  The first pitch chains might be off by on link but are probably fine.

Work that needs to be done is at least one stud needs to be removed and at least one but I think two holes need to be patched.

[mynameismud]

Here is the status of Shake and Bake
Pitch 1 still has all the original bolts
Pitch 1 Anchors one new 3/8 x 3.5 Stainless Rawl with Fixe hanger
Pitch 2 1st bolt is original, all other bolts are either 3/8 x 3.5 stainless rawl or 1/2 x 6.5 glue in.
Pitch 2 anchor one 1/2 rawl and one 3/8 split shaft with chains.  There is also a 1/2 x 6.5 glue in.
Pitch 3 either 3/8 x 3.5 stainless rawl or 1/2 x 6.5 glue in except the last  bolt which is still a 3/8 split shaft.

Work that needs to be done.  There are a couple of studs that need to be removed and I think two holes that need to be patched.  Pitch 1 needs to be rebolted.

Additional work done:  Anchor chains and new hangers put in on top of Electric Blue.

[Brad Young]

So, for two days you four worked dawn to dusk literally (they got to the car Sunday at 7:30 at night). All for no new routes to tick, no new first ascents and no real climbing. Wow. Thanks.

[F4?]

All for no new routes to tick, no new first ascents and no real climbing. Wow. Thanks.

Think of it as training for new routes. Eric is going to be a bolting madman the next time he does a 3/8 and not a 1/2 bolt by hand.

After that experience. It would be best to see if it's possible to get a  special use permit for installing replacement anchors. Most of the time seemed to be spent drilling new holes.

Especially if future replacements involve removing wedge anchors.

[mynameismud]

Brian has to get quite a bit of credit for this.  He motivated everyone into action and donated the glue in bolts and provided drill bits.

[salad]

suhweet!

[hoipolloi]

Saw you guys workin' hard out there on Saturday.  I was over on the first couple pitches of Son of Dawn Wall.  Im going to go down and do Lava Falls tomorrow, thanks for the new bolts on it!

[mynameismud]

Cool, have fun and let us know what you think.

[mudworm]

Uh oh

[joe]

uh oh?

[mudworm]

Oh no!

[mynameismud]

They said no one would be able to use those new bolts till next year.....

[squiddo]

oh boy....hope the glue was dry! Then again, you ONLY need them if you fall.......

[mudworm]

They said no one would be able to use those new bolts till next year.....

I hope it was not found out the hard way.

[joe]

how long does it take for the glue to dry?

davey you out there?  how did it go?  did carmen get you up the tough section on that puppy?

[squiddo]

F4 said 24 hours. It's fine I just am a smartass. Easy for me to say as I need/get to wait 6 months.

[F4?]

That glue nasty stuff. It starts to harden in 5 minutes. Once on your hands it burns pretty bad.

Officially, it's 24hrs to cure. I think it's quicker if in the sun.

Oddly, gluing in the bolts was easy, when the glue gun worked. It was drilling out the dang 1/2 hole that took for ever.