MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

[JC w KC redux]

It's a little early in the day to be drunk posting.

[Marco]

It's a little early in the day to be drunk posting.

Not if you just haven't sobered up from the day before. Must've been that single shot of sake I had last night to warm up.

[JC w KC redux]

I don't think you can blame a shot of sake.
you should come to KY and drink some bourbon.

On a more serious note - this is from my climbing log dated 6-8-17

REBOLT INFO: Someone removed one of the chains from the rappel on middle tower. I noticed on a previous visit that both chains were/are sub standard (1/4"?). One was attached with a screwlink and one with a smashlink. They looked equalized but the equal point sent you down too close to the edge of the tower (nasty swing potential). THE ANCHOR NEEDS TO BE MOVED. It’s set up now to rap off the lower bolt and the chain on the upper bolt simply serves as a backup. The upper bolt should be removed and moved lower or just move the whole anchor down. I also think several of the lead bolts need to be replaced. They are either wedges or split shafts.

I think the anchor could also be moved to climber's right and still be in a good spot to belay a follower. This was one of many low priority jobs on my rebolting list that I never got to. Not sure I ever will at this point (almost 7 years later) but I haven't forgotten.

[Marco]

I don't think you can blame a shot of sake.

I had a cup of Sake and some potato chips to celebrate and I'm now barely able to type....

I beg to differ.

On a more serious note

On a more serious note had a few notes from Cuidado for master rebolting list.
Tat around oak at base should be cut. Was not trivial hiking to and from cave from that location.
P1 has about 6 star dryvin/ leeper combo.
P3 anchor had 4 quicklinks that were hand tightened, next person going up should bring wrench.
Rap off tower mentioned prior should have chain redone. As chain remaining was very thin and not remotely equalized.

Also large beehive in hole at base of bolt ladder for P1 of west face on Machete.

[clink]

 Marco seems to exhibit abnormal tendencies. He might be interested in joining you, Bruce and Clint in the Knights of Prodigious Community Rebolting.

[Brad Young]

...I beg to differ.

This damn kid has a memory and is arguing like a lawyer. A good one too.

In other news, as we are all gravitating toward granite season, I went up the highway in perfect temps with the dogs. Gorgeous up there, but by setting up a toprope solo rig on one of my favorite three star corner/crack routes, I learned that... I am emphatically not in shape for 5.10d corner/crack routes. Wow, I've got work to do.

[Brad Young]

And I agree with J.C. that that particular anchor has been a pain for several years. I'm hoping that the condor closure lifts by the time I get to that part of the book next season. I'd like to do Old Original and get guidebook photos of it and of other important points nearby.

It wouldn't be beyond reason to take enough gear to totally redo the anchor there as part of a day like that.

Anyone want in on this by the way? As always, the chance would be there to be in a a guidebook photo or two and thereby get fabulously rich and undeniably famous.

I'll add too that there was an equally bad setup on The Flatiron until three or so years ago. Decent gear at the midway belay/rappel station on its east side. But the chains and rings were in illogical positions (really bad) and so there was no equalization and the pull was hard after rappelling. J.C. fixed that (and we noticed and appreciated the work while we were there for the old mens' week).

[JC w KC redux]

I beg to differ.

You can beg to differ if you are a lightweight.

On a more serious note had a few notes from Cuidado for master rebolting list.
Tat around oak at base should be cut. Was not trivial hiking to and from cave from that location.
P1 has about 6 star dryvin/ leeper combo.
P3 anchor had 4 quicklinks that were hand tightened, next person going up should bring wrench.
Rap off tower mentioned prior should have chain redone. As chain remaining was very thin and not remotely equalized.
Also large beehive in hole at base of bolt ladder for P1 of west face on Machete.

I think you meant the rebolting suggestions thread. I will never climb Cuidado's upper pitches. I led p1 with Brad one day but that's as far as I go. We were "working" on Flies On A Pile.

I learned a long time ago to carry a 4 inch adjustable wrench (loose stuff) and a pocket knife (tat) at all times when climbing - but that is just me.

[JC w KC redux]

This damn kid has a memory and is arguing like a lawyer. A good one too.

Disagree based on the following evidence;

From my notes - 1-10-14 - Tiburcio’s Upper Route 5.7 – the lower part is fun b/c it’s the first pitch of Cuidado. Kind of scary and committing/exposed crux but well protected. Some new and some old bolts.

I looked to see if I had any pics of the bolts on Cuidado p1 but the only one I have for that day is the only bolt on Upper Route - so the comment (some new and some old bolts) refers to the bolts on p1 Cuidado.

[JC w KC redux]

I'll add too that there was an equally bad setup on The Flatiron until three or so years ago. Decent gear at the midway belay/rappel station on its east side. But the chains and rings were in illogical positions (really bad) and so there was no equalization and the pull was hard after rappelling. J.C. fixed that (and we noticed and appreciated the work while we were there for the old mens' week).

That anchor was the pits. Returning to the Flatiron to finish a few tidbits is on my short list if I ever return to rebolting.

The Thumb's rappel anchor also needs redone as it is similar to the way the Flatiron used to be (and you're stuck in that corridor for the pull). The other anchor that I can think of that is somewhat botched is The Knee. I used the original holes - which were way too far/spread apart. The pull isn't too bad though - since you can walk far away from the rock to reduce friction.

[Brad Young]

I learned a long time ago to carry a 4 inch adjustable wrench (loose stuff)...

You should note that it isn't a "normal" four inch wrench - I've never seen so small a wrench that opens so far. So it actually fits every nut type and hex head on bolts at Pinns. I wanna be in your will to receive that particular item.

[clink]

 So a hummingbird and a hippopotamus got together and designed a wrench?

[JC w KC redux]

Marco - when you get a chance - go climb Pot and Peyote Pinnacle/Pillar.

I think you will like Peyote better.

[Brad Young]

He'll have lots of chances. Remember that he's only about 15 years old.

[NOAL]

You can make your own wrench like that. Cut the handle back on a normal length wrench on the bandsaw, round the end off with a grinder, and drill a hole through it. Voila, you now have a wrench with no leverage. That's why it's hard to find.

Don't ever get this weirdo wrench mixed up in your gear 

[Brad Young]

^^^

So, you make better tacos than you do wrenches?

[Marco]

So the comment (some new and some old bolts) refers to the bolts on p1 Cuidado.

Yes, I disagree with Brad. My memory is only good with stuff that doesn't matter much such as FA info and random bolts. Not good remembering climbing beta or any of my current course material.
Though for the bolts on P1 Cuidado, I believe it went: bolts 1-3 PS with fixe hangers, bolts 4-6/7 were star dryvin/leeper, then the lower anchor (you climb past) had a left bolt that was PS while right bolt was star/Leeper. The last lead bolt was Leeper, then the left two anchor bolts were PS Fixe and one relic on right. (3 bolt anchor). I was not saying there are only 6 bolts all star/Leepers on P1 of Cuidado.

Marco - when you get a chance - go climb Pot and Peyote Pinnacle/Pillar.

I will, unfortunately like Brad mentioned granite season is creeping up on us. I will have to check those out next year when I'm 16 and can finally drive myself to the Pinns. Though I think my bad memory is from engaging too much with the first pinnacle already.

[NOAL]

So, you make better tacos than you do wrenches?

Yep,  I'm just the guy that makes the tacos.

[JC w KC redux]

Yes, I disagree with Brad. My memory is only good with stuff that doesn't matter much such as FA info and random bolts. Not good remembering climbing beta or any of my current course material.
Though for the bolts on P1 Cuidado, I believe it went: bolts 1-3 PS with fixe hangers, bolts 4-6/7 were star dryvin/leeper, then the lower anchor (you climb past) had a left bolt that was PS while right bolt was star/Leeper. The last lead bolt was Leeper, then the left two anchor bolts were PS Fixe and one relic on right. (3 bolt anchor). I was not saying there are only 6 bolts all star/Leepers on P1 of Cuidado.

Now THAT is some good information. IF I were to go out to work on p1, I would know exactly what to take tools-wise. I wish everyone would report information like this (no one does - this nice "list" may actually be a first).

Though I think my bad memory is from engaging too much with the first pinnacle already.

The effects of Peyote will be more dramatic but temporary.

[JC w KC redux]

You can get someone to make you a wrench like that. Cut the handle back on a normal length wrench on the bandsaw, round the end off with a grinder, and drill a hole through it. Voila, you now have a wrench with no leverage. That's why it's hard to find.

There - I fixed it for you.

There is a nice piece of cord tied into the handle that you can use for torque assistance.

Don't ever get this weirdo wrench mixed up in your gear 

C'mon man...where's the love?