MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

[NOAL]

Caleb must've been doing the cookin'

[JC w KC redux]

The start of the Sponge is tricky and the holds are hard to see/decipher (especially for a bunch of old farts). You have to "sneak" into that climb. It starts by barely stepping left off the trail and moving diagonally left and up - then straight up. It was apparent the last time I was there that people have a hard time reading the LOLR and try to go straight up to the first bolt. I seem to recall seeing some spots where people tore stuff off trying to Go The Wong Way. Chalk on false holds too  It takes a bit of "bouldering it out" for lack of a better expression (maybe "sussing it out" is better) before you can commit and get to the first decent stance (still well below the first bolt). I have led that climb multiple times and taken first-timers on it - never with any issues). No notes in my log on any of those ascents about it being more difficult or slick. 
Did anyone lead Burgundy Dome's Regular Route? Or Tuff Dome Regular Route?

[Brad Young]

 
Did anyone lead Burgundy Dome's Regular Route? Or Tuff Dome Regular Route?

Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.

No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?

[burnsbabe]

Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.

No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?

Not that the rangers would appreciate using in a National Park full of condors I don't think.

[JC w KC redux]

Not that the rangers would appreciate using in a National Park full of condors I don't think.

Condors don't eat poison oak. But the point is moot anyway.

[NOAL]

  It starts by barely stepping left off the trail and moving diagonally left and up - then straight up. 

This. John keeps such good notes and has memory for this kind of thing.  I wanted to say this earlier but could not say it definitively.  John is right if you start down hill from the trail and go straight up to the bolt it is significantly harder.  The slickness is more like the surface of some of the lodestones but I could be recalling that wrong.

[JC w KC redux]

Yes on Burgundy Dome. And that's not changed at all.

No on Tuff Dome, although Joel did all the routes on Bynum's. You won't be surprised at how tall, long and juicy the P.O. is at the start of Tuff Dome Regular either. One can still tiptoe around the outside of it, but is there any way to actually permanently kill that sh#t?

Burgundy Dome Regular Route was my first 5.7 lead and I remember getting up there and stemming as wide as I could go and counting the few seconds I had to decide "go or blow". I also remember watching Alex Barbella some years later (as I belayed her) - back off the route at bolt 2 and come back down, regroup and go again. She got it that time but was leading 5.10's that were out of my league at the time. I led it that day too (before she did) and it was just as exciting the 2nd time around. That is a heady but great climb.

Did anyone lead the other Burgundy routes? That 4th class is not 4th class and has a bolt (Cochran and I replaced it). I know I fed all this information back to you at the time but can't vouch for your record keeping.       I can look it all up again if you need me to.

And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.

[NOAL]

  And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.

Never did this one.  Before you rebolted it I remember not being able to see the bolts from the start (and maybe a fixed pin?)  Considering the name and lack of stars moved on down the trail to something else

[Brad Young]

Dave backed off on The Sponge when he tried to climb straight up to the bolt. He got it though when he climbed up and left (generally) to it. That's when he called it 5.8 or maybe 5.7. And said that that rating applied if one found the "right" way to climb it. All of the other climbers watched the way he went and thought that even going that way it was pretty hard. I'd love some more opinions if any of you can get up to it before too long?

Natalie's comment is apt: I've used an Ortho product, Brush-Be-Gone at Table Mountain around here. It'll kill it at the roots. But I doubt that the Park Service would look kindly on using that at Tuff Dome (and who wants to haul all that weight up there anyway?).

And John, your comments NEVER go un-noted (unless I really "F" up). Here's the new book's description for Burgundy Dome Regular Route:

871.  Burgundy Dome - Regular Route  5.4  Climb to and then up the chimney on Burgundy Dome’s east side (the side facing the trail).  Face moves to gain the chimney are the crux.  Continue in the chimney (optional 1½ to three inch gear) to and then past a bolt up high (on the chimney’s right/main-summit side).  Finish at the shared top anchor.


Vin Ordinaire is a serious lead. My friend Jim took a lead fall from it in 2006 that should have killed him (literally). A hold broke about 25 feet up and he had no pro in by that point. He tumbled head over heels. By sheer luck he hit the rock face at the base, the one that faces at the route, with his whole back and the back of his head all together, in one blow. I could hear the wind get knocked out of him (slammed might be the better word). If he'd hit that rock at a 15 degree different angle it would likely have just snapped his neck. As it was he bit through his lip and had road rash all over. I've never touched that route since then (I'd led it years before his accident). I also noted the position of the fixed piton low on the route (so people will find it) after reflecting on his fall:

873.  Vin Ordinaire  5.8  R **  This route is on the northeast side of the formation, in a second concave face, to the right of Rappel Route.  One fixed pin (30 feet up, to the right, on the edge of a hole) and two bolts can be supplemented by so-so gear.

[waldo]

And Vin Ordinaire? I rebolted that years ago but never went back to lead it. It looks good but there is something sinister about it.

Jack and I rebolted this route too. The details are dim (and I was not in on the first ascent), but one of the original bolts was a 3/16's. We replaced it with a more robust Star. Jack used those 3/16's bolts when the stance was desperate. I don't remember which bolt it was, though it matters not at all now. Thanks, J.C.

[JC w KC redux]

Jack and I rebolted this route too. The details are dim (and I was not in on the first ascent), but one of the original bolts was a 3/16's. We replaced it with a more robust Star. Jack used those 3/16's bolts when the stance was desperate. I don't remember which bolt it was, though it matters not at all now. Thanks, J.C.

It was the lower bolt.

From my rebolting log;

"I dropped in and was appalled at the top bolt – an inch and a half, ¼” compression bolt/split shaft on a modern hanger (SMC) that came out hideously easy with a few taps of the tuning fork – no crowbar needed. 1 1/8” of the bolt extended from the back of the hanger. The hanger was 1/8” and the nut was 1/4 inch thick and flush with the end of the stud. I couldn’t drill the hole out because the rock quality was bad. I had to find good rock and drill a new hole there.
The lower bolt was a decent-looking star dryvin and probably okay but I decided I still needed to replace it. It came out pretty easily once I got it started with the tuning fork. It was a 2 ½” nail that had been filed or cut off to about 2 1/8”. (no point on the nail)."

The stance had to be desperate at that upper bolt. I don't even see how he did it but I've heard plenty of stories about him and been on a few tough stances myself. Fear is an amazing motivator. Noal and Kat will remember me making some odd noises while drilling a bolt on the 5.9 at Deep Groove Wall.

[JC w KC redux]

Here's the new book's description for Burgundy Dome Regular Route:

871.  Burgundy Dome - Regular Route  5.4  Climb to and then up the chimney on Burgundy Dome’s east side (the side facing the trail).  Face moves to gain the chimney are the crux.  Continue in the chimney (optional 1½ to three inch gear) to and then past a bolt up high (on the chimney’s right/main-summit side).  Finish at the shared top anchor.


Vin Ordinaire is a serious lead. My friend Jim took a lead fall from it in 2006 that should have killed him (literally).

Glad you got that new description.
Cochran followed me on that route and replaced the bolt on follow.
I just remember getting up in there to a stance and asking him to hand me my rack while he still could. Then I got up to the top of the "chimney" and found what I assume was an old belay bolt (since it was at my feet on top of the sub-pinnacle) and in garbage rock. All the rock on that top surface sounded like styrofoam. No crowbar needed for that one either (star dryvin) and it all came out in one piece. 

I remember you telling me that story. Seems I recall there was someone there that was a nurse and rendered a little first aid? Or maybe that was Splatter Matt (or both).

Forgot to say that I think your dad is a badass for hiking to the High peaks at 89. I remember the last time my mom came out to California at age 83 and we took her to Pinns. We hiked out to the Destiny Wall/Flumes cutoff and on the way back she had to sit down and rest several times and kept saying it was uphill (which it is - but we never perceived it that way). I'll never forget it.

[JC w KC redux]

Never looked up the meaning of the name but it is cheap table wine for everyday use.

It has always looked good to me and is one of those climbs that calls to me but maybe it is the call of 

[NOAL]

I looked in the book yesterday and saw it had 2 stars.  I thought no stars for some reason. 

I used to read more into route names.  This one I thought the name might have meant nothing special.  Kind of like table wine vs Burgundy.   

For awhile I thought it would be funny to give easy climbs really scary names.

[JC w KC redux]

For awhile I thought it would be funny to give easy climbs really scary names.

clunk and waldo already did that. The Big Bad West and Romper Room.

and no...that's not a typo. 

[NOAL]

That's not scary enough.

Think more like Deathtrap,  Wheelchair Bound,  You Ain't Have Fun Til You're Dialin' 911 etc

[beanolar]

Hi! Does anyone know what time the west side lot fills up on sundays?
We might haul "baby" beano and captain Jesse up to high peaks. She's freakin 6 already, and more than half my height. What did they feed her?!

[looks easy from here]

I got there a little before 10:30 a month ago and was the third-to-last car to fit in Jawbone.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Jawbone is overflow.

On springtime Sundays, the main lot, Chaparral, is usually full between 8:30 and 9:00. But Jawbone isn't a long walk away (unlike the situation on the East Side).

[Marco]

Got out to Pinns on Sunday. Unfamiliar with area but believe this picture is Mikayla doing yoga ontop of an unnamed formation with Piglet Pinnacle featured in the far background. Correct me if I'm wrong.




Our rope got snagged on the rap off tower behind her. One bolt had just a rap ring and other like 13 links of 1/4" chain, made no sense. Would be good to bring chain for other bolt whenever someone gets up there next.