MUD 'N CRUD PICTURES THREAD - WEEKLY FAVORITE

[JC w KC redux]

Brad (and friends) replaced the anchor on Viva Zapatos (now a 2-bolt anchor with chains (2 half inch ASCA bolts).

He left the original single bolt anchor for history and it is quite unusual.
A star dryvin with a duplex nail on an SMC stainless hanger - looks good for at least another 50 years. Even though the nail would be theoretically easy to remove (jinx) with a big crowbar (no tuning fork tomfoolery) - you can see that it has epoxy on it. That nail head might just pop off.

[clink]

Is there a known date for this bolt?

[JC w KC redux]

Is there a known date for this bolt?

9/1991 Jack and waldo's FA

[Brad Young]

Here's a shot of the new anchor with, nearby, the old bolt (which we left for its historical value - I've never seen a Star Dryvin with a duplex head).

[Marco]

Got out with Ryan this weekend and have a "weekly favorite" picture or two.

Aesthetic picture of Ryan going out on the sharp end.



Sometimes the sharp end decides that a single day using a rope is enough.



That being said if anyone wants to share a new rope or donate to the Marco Rope Foundation I know the owner and they are accepting donations.

[NOAL]

Can't have nice things at Pinnacles.  For Pinnacles I always buy whatever rope is the cheapest and fattest. Sometimes that means you don't get a middle mark. Oh well.  Fancy clothes like Arcteryx are also a bad idea.  Especially the pants and super thin jackets.

Rope prices now are crazy.

[Brad Young]

Tenuous reception here, but that photo of Ryan is so, so good that I've got try to post.

Sorry about the rope. And just buy a new one. With your career trajectory you'll soon be rich.

Alright, here goes an attempt to post....

[Gavin]

Marco what were you guys working on in the photo?

[NOAL]

Something close to Citadel?

[JC w KC redux]

Something close to Citadel?

I thought the same thing but that is actually Goat Rock from a weird angle

[mungeclimber]

Nice pics!


Found a nice old vid of Bob on a climb some might recognize...

https://vimeo.com/17723320?share=copy

[waldo]

Here's a shot of the new anchor with, nearby, the old bolt (which we left for its historical value - I've never seen a Star Dryvin with a duplex head).

Jack put this bolt in. I don't recall the strange nail. Our custom was to trade leads and bolts. He put in the first on this climb; I got the second and he put in the anchor. By the by, my favorite in this area was Las Aguilas. I'd go back to climb that one again.

P.S. That's definitely his hand-painted camo hanger. He always scoffed at my complaints about hiding bolts from desperate leaders.

[Brad Young]

The old mens' trip was a big success. Lots of climbing (and hiking and birding) over six days.

Thursday was hot though - 82 degrees in the High Peaks (as I type this, more Goddamn snow is falling at our house... and sticking).

Here are five of the seven old men (Bob Walton had left by this point on this day, and my 89 year old father, who hiked to the High Peaks with us on Tuesday, did not do so this day, preferring to bird out by The Balconies). From left to right, Joel, Dave, Charles (Footie, really), Brad and Bart:




Caleb and Steve also joined us on Tuesday, but since they are only coming up on ages 50 and 60 respectively within the next two months, they did so not as old men but by special dispensation.

Here's Dave leading The Sponge - Left. The start of this route is definitely not 5.6 any longer (it'll be 5.8 at the start in the new book). Footie is spotting and, out of sight, Bob was belaying:

[Brad Young]

As mentioned in another thread, Caleb took us down to a friend's property on the Arroyo Seco River for an evening barbecue. A truly beautiful place (and a really significant river, not just one in name):

[NOAL]

Wow, that house is right on the river!  Nice.

The last time I did the Sponge was a couple of years ago.  It had been almost ten years since I had last done it.  Didn't really feel like anything changed or broke. It's just not intuitive and a little slick. Maybe 5.7.

[Brad Young]

Dave backed off and then tried the start again. He said "5.8, maybe 5.7." But then Footie, Bart and Joel all did it and said 5.9. Bob literally could not do the moves.

And yeah, the "best" holds on it are surprisingly slick.

[NOAL]

5.9 no way.  They were not finding the right stuff. 

That is a nice photo of Dave leading it.


Surprisingly quite a number of ticks for this one on the Ole Mt Poojecter.   Nobody suggests a higher rating. One guy even says the crux is mild.   

[Brad Young]

I agree that it's not 5.9. But it's also not 5.6. We did a lot of 5.8 this trip and it seemed to be a few moves on the stiff side of 5.8.

[NOAL]

What else you guys climb up in the High Peaks?

[Brad Young]

^^^

We were up there for 4 of the days. Lots of stuff from Photographers Delight all the way to Spike's Peak. Also out to The Flatiron where, among other climbs, Caleb amazed us with a huge high step at the top of Burton's Below. I fully expected to hear tearing sounds, but he survived just fine.

We ate too much good food though.