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Author Topic: Shutdown  (Read 18117 times)

squiddo

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #40 on: March 18, 2008, 08:53:53 AM »
Mudworm....he acts like he works in a PO. BTW, I'll be in the Eastside next week. Anyone down for some OR Gorge, ping me.
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #41 on: March 22, 2008, 10:10:49 PM »
Well this weekend I got shutdown on Ranger Bolts. but had fun.
Wet kiss L
Big Pucker TR
Broken Arrow L
Verdict L
Deck Chairs L
Ranger Bolts L (A0) (first 1/2 only)
Ranger Bolts TR (first 1/2 only)
Hawaiian Noises L
POD TR
Feed The Beast L (fall/hang)
Cantaloupe Death L
Hot Lava 1st move of the TR step across.

Met a German couple that flew from Germany to climb at the Pinnacles for a 4 day weekend.  They were inspired by the pics of Broken Arrow and Heat Seeking Moisture missile.

Told ya'll this place is world class.
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mudworm

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #42 on: March 22, 2008, 10:26:06 PM »
Not too bad for a late start, eh? (We hiked to Discovery Wall at 11am.)

Well, you have to disclose that the guy thought Yosemite was only climbable in September and October.  He said that it was wet and cold everywhere in Europe, so he decided to travel a little farther to the sunny California for a few days of climbing.  What a life! When he showed up, we were just done with Big Pucker. He had THE guidebook in hand looking for Broken Arrow. We talked them into doing Wet Kiss first. He did a good job on BA, but thought the anchor was kinda "stupid."  :)  They both still use munter hitch to belay.
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joe

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #43 on: March 23, 2008, 08:11:45 AM »
yeah, but you missed the beer in the parking lot.  I brought a couple of extra for you hard folk, but was forced to drink them when you didn't show up.
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #44 on: March 23, 2008, 08:24:36 AM »
Dang,
I guess that is what we get for being the last car out.
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F4?

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #45 on: March 23, 2008, 09:01:36 AM »
Quote
Insert Quote
Dang,
I guess that is what we get for being the last car out.
Where are your priorities man? Cold beer was there waiting for you. Did you get lost again?

Quote
He said that it was wet and cold everywhere in Europe,
And the weather in Spain doesn't count? I'd go climbing there in a heart beat!

Quote
Ranger Bolts L (A0) (first 1/2 only)
Ranger Bolts TR (first 1/2 only)
How was the 1st pitch crux?
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Uncle Stinky

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #46 on: March 23, 2008, 01:18:45 PM »
Uncle Stinky did not make it.  Could not get a full day off,had to get ready for Easter.  Went up for a short day at Yosemite and got back early.  Maybe next month I'll go camping for the weekend. 
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F4?

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #47 on: March 23, 2008, 04:06:26 PM »
Hey Uncle Stink, some of us are going to be at the Grotto next weekend. You are welcome to join.

Btw, is it Cal Dome time yet?
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #48 on: March 23, 2008, 08:35:13 PM »
I do not think the crux is any harder.  The flake that broke off is now a hole with a very good edge.  the rail below has broken off but I think all in all is about the same.
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Clint Cummins

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #49 on: March 24, 2008, 01:28:55 PM »
Erik, nice work on the send for Yo Mama Stepacross!  That crux move is very tough!  The asterisk version was also so darn close...

Chris Bellizzi told me he thought the first half of Ranger Bolts is 5.12b now, because Hristo broke off a hold on it, about 5 years ago.
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #50 on: March 24, 2008, 02:13:35 PM »
Clint good to hear from you and thank you.  Yes those moves on Yo Mama TR are a bugger.

 Yea that was the flake located near the last bolt on the first half.  After the hold broke it was a bit sloper and crumbly.  Now the hole is large and the edge is incut and is actually better than ever.  Looks almost sculpted.  However it got to the way it is, the hold is now very friendly and very positive.  Before the hold broke it was fairly positive but not friendly.
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karl

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #51 on: March 24, 2008, 02:21:21 PM »
Quote from: Clint Cummins on March 24, 2008, 01:28:55 PM
Chris Bellizzi told me he thought the first half of Ranger Bolts is 5.12b now, because Hristo broke off a hold on it, about 5 years ago.

Clint and Erik,

The last time I was on Ranger Bolts was just under two years ago.  Unless something has dramatically changed, it still felt like soft 12a.  I don't think the route has changed much since the first time I climbed it about 5 years ago.  I know some people say 11d, but I always felt that was too sandbag.

Maybe I climbed it after the broken hold.  If I did, it was Tom Shores who broke it.  There used to be a positive crimp for the right hand (in the middle of the crux).  Now all that is left is this super thin pocket where the crimp used to be.  I never climbed it with the hold in place, but Tom showed it to me once.  It looked pretty nice.

Karl
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karl

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #52 on: March 24, 2008, 02:28:05 PM »
Erik,

Are you only working the first anchor part of Ranger Bolts?  For some reason, I thought you were trying the whole thing.

Karl
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #53 on: March 24, 2008, 02:40:54 PM »
Karl,
 Yep trying the whole thing.  I was just trying to get the lower half dialed and since I blew getting to the anchors I stopped there and did a clean TR.
 I have done it pre and post hold breaking.  For a while the new hold was not so good.  Last weekend the hold was very positive.  I had not experienced this new version of the hold before.  There is an actual hole now and part of a knob is visible where the outer rock has broken away.
 On TR I able to setup on the broken up ledge and chalk then reach up for the next hold.  It is very positive.  For now anyway.
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F4?

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #54 on: March 24, 2008, 04:30:37 PM »
Quote
Are you only working the first anchor part of Ranger Bolts?  For some reason, I thought you were trying the whole thing.
Hey Karl, your not alone. We've all been wondering when he's going to get the whole thing.  ;D

Well if it's not 12b then there's a chance for me. Whew!
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karl

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #55 on: March 24, 2008, 08:24:12 PM »
Quote from: My Name is Mud on March 24, 2008, 02:40:54 PM
I had not experienced this new version of the hold before.  There is an actual hole now and part of a knob is visible where the outer rock has broken away.

Where is the broken hold?  From what I remember of the crux, it goes something like this...

Clip the last draw high from a jug.  Rest in some sort of stem. 
Right hand goes to a pocket (where there used to be a hold). 
High back-step and reach up to a couple of sloped left hands (the right one is better).
Bring your feet up.
Right hand goes to some piece of junk which you can match (I think) or just bump off.
I used to bump to a broken-ish flake, then match it (maybe).
You work around this flake and find a nice stem and clip the anchor.

I think there is a clip 1' left of the anchor that I always blew off (I use it for the full version and skip the anchor).

So, where is the broken hold?
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #56 on: March 24, 2008, 08:57:53 PM »
Sounds kinda right. I think this is saying about the same thing.
Good pocket for the left.  Pocket edge for the right. 
Left goes up to one of the two sloped lefts, right is better. 
Feet come up. 
Right hand goes to edge where there is now a hole with a good edge where the crimp broke off, which is close to the bolt.
Horizontally left 4 to 5 feet  there is a knob that can be used for a side pull/crimp for the left.  I use this bring my left foot up and to adjust the right hand. 
Left goes high to an edge with a thumb catch. 
I bring the right up to an edge then bump to the broken flake near the bolt.
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #57 on: March 24, 2008, 09:05:02 PM »
 I think the way I do it adds a couple of moves.  From the good hold that is used to clip the bolt I go tothe pocket edge with the right then traverse left so that I can get my left in the hole.  I go up from there. 
 I do not back step in the sequence at all.  I should probably do more of that to save energy.
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karl

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #58 on: March 24, 2008, 09:55:23 PM »
Ok, now I know which hold broke.  It's good to know that it's only that hold, because you just use it to bump to the good flake.  Any little chip would work.  I know that when I feel strong on the route, I skip that hold and go straight to the flake.

The beta your using is about the same as the beta Audrey used.  It works well for short people.

 
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mynameismud

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Re: Shutdown
« Reply #59 on: March 25, 2008, 05:00:11 AM »
Holy Sheep Dip!

Quote from: karl on March 24, 2008, 09:55:23 PM

skip that hold and go straight to the flake.

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