Author Topic: Shutdown (Read 18098 times)

Brad Young · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2008, 01:19:17 PM »

We met two climbers Saturday at the base of Luntic Fringe who'd just done this relatively newly established four pitch 5.8 to our left. They'd gotten the topo from someone they saw at parking who'd done it that morning. They passed on the topo to us. Jim and I ran up it.

Jim thought one star, I thought it was worth doing once, but no stars. The party before us commented that they thought the route was 5.9 is one or more places. Jim and I thought it was definitely 5.9 at the end of the second pitch with the move protected by a bolt at your knees. Possibley 5.9 at two other places too. The non 5.9 sections had some significant runouts. Very inventive line, which wanders between weaknesses.

I scanned the topo and I see no harm in posting it here (I'll do that this evening from my Mac, which is easier to use for that sort of thing). I'll email it now to Mudworm who could, perhaps post it sooner for me (if it is convenient for her)? Note that the climb that shares the first few moves with this new route, but then continues straight up to bolts and a flake is shown in the current Valley Guidebook. I don't have the name here, but in that book's topo the flake is marked "scary."

mynameismud · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2008, 01:46:43 PM »

Karl,
the step across starts on good holds between the 1st and 2nd bolt. The moves below that look quite thin to me.

mudworm · « **Reply #22 on:** March 10, 2008, 02:49:22 PM »

Quote from: Brad Young on March 10, 2008, 01:19:17 PM

...I scanned the topo ...I'll email it now to Mudworm who could, perhaps post it sooner for me ...

Brad, do you really think someone will want to jump on it this afternoon, or even tomorrow? Especially after that "one star", "no stars", "runouts", "scary" talk?

Okay, for anyone who is dying to get on this rad route, here is the topo in PDF format.

Brad Young · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2008, 03:02:48 PM »

Mudworm asked:

"Brad, do you really think someone will want to jump on it this afternoon, or even tomorrow? Especially after that "one star", "no stars", "runouts", "scary" talk?"

No, Mudworm, probably not. I guess I try to comply with requests with a little more priority than I should. Gets stuff off my "to do" list. Thanks anyway for the help.

"Rad route." Yeah, rad.

mynameismud · « **Reply #24 on:** March 11, 2008, 07:50:16 AM »

Brad,
Next time photo copy the topo before you crumple it up and put it in your pocket.

mudworm · « **Reply #25 on:** March 11, 2008, 10:00:44 AM »

Mud, last night you said "wad it up". As insensitive as I am to the subtle differences between English words, I thought it was funnier when you said it that way -- it kept me chuckling for five minutes after I went to bed.

mynameismud · « **Reply #26 on:** March 11, 2008, 10:29:56 AM »

take two.
Brad,
Next time photo copy the topo before you wad it up and put it in your pocket.

remember
lock, chalk, hit the rock

Brad Young · « **Reply #27 on:** March 11, 2008, 11:16:42 AM »

Yeah, I'll get handed a topo at the base of a crag and run straight down to a copy machine. And Jim carried the topo. It's all Jim's fault. Let's get him.

squiddo · « **Reply #28 on:** March 11, 2008, 11:26:22 AM »

Sorry, delay due to being tired. Mudworm nailed it, I wanted to hear about the new 4 pitch Reeds route.

kev · « **Reply #29 on:** March 11, 2008, 01:06:12 PM »

Brad,

We ended up hanging with those guys later in the day at Generator crack and it is their
FA (they've actually got a BUNCH (100+) new routes). They have no name for it and no desire to name it (strange). When discussing the rating they called it 'spicy 5.8'. I though that was kinda amusing.

kev

mynameismud · « **Reply #30 on:** March 11, 2008, 01:14:47 PM »

We know how good you are at drawing topo's.

We want originals.

mudworm · « **Reply #31 on:** March 16, 2008, 09:01:16 PM »

Sent it!!!

Mud is not home yet, but he called on his way. Yesterday, I invited a bunch of climbers for dinner just so that I could find Mud a belay partner. It worked. F4 took the bait. Actually, I'll start calling F4 Mud's "good lucky star" now. There are compelling reasons. For example, Mud worked on Machete Arch to no avail until one day F4 went with him; now after half a dozen failed attempts, he succeeded on Yo Mama Step Across only with F4's belay; plus, Mud has me now all because of F4 (okay, I'm not sure if the last one is good luck or back luck).

mungeclimber · « **Reply #32 on:** March 16, 2008, 09:06:54 PM »

3 or 4 elevens.

Was pickpocket an onsight?

mynameismud · « **Reply #33 on:** March 16, 2008, 09:39:29 PM »

Pickpocket was not onsite since I have been on it before. Felt casual today.

Got the ones I really needed today. Yo Mama TR, DeckChairs, Pickpocket. Whoohoo. One more to go. I sent today with Erik but mudworm get a very warm thank you since she did belay duty 4 weekends in a row.

F4? · « **Reply #34 on:** March 17, 2008, 06:39:45 AM »

I took the bait???

I was wanting to get out and at the same time not lead everything.

Brad Young · « **Reply #35 on:** March 17, 2008, 06:51:20 AM »

Wow, what a day for Mr Mud. I expected Yo Mama, but Deck Chairs too? Apparently now marital bliss will be easy; you got most of what you wanted out of the Pinns season, and now you can move on to the Valley and keep Mudworm happy. Maybe talk her into a token day or two on this pass?

mynameismud · « **Reply #36 on:** March 17, 2008, 09:14:14 AM »

One more trip down so I have have at least one token effort on Ranger Bolts. Weekend after that will be in the valley.

mudworm · « **Reply #37 on:** March 17, 2008, 09:17:39 AM »

Quote from: F4? on March 17, 2008, 06:39:45 AM

I took the bait???

I was wanting to get out and at the same time not lead everything.

Heehee, of course you knew I didn't invite you guys over to bite some "baits".

Thank you for willing to climb with Mud. And somehow I had the feeling that if he went with you, he would get it. I guess it worked out well for all of us. I moved our file cabinets, his computer desk, his 21" CRT monitor all into the living room and did NOT even break a finger! My wrists are sore though from assembling two shelves without a power tool (no metric sockets).

F4? · « **Reply #38 on:** March 17, 2008, 10:14:56 AM »

This Friday anyone???

mudworm · « **Reply #39 on:** March 17, 2008, 05:17:42 PM »

Do you get Good Friday off?

Do you work in a post office, or something?

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Author Topic: Shutdown (Read 18098 times)