Author Topic: WARNING - Upper FLUMES loose cobble - on Where the Sun Shines  (Read 2580 times)

Marco

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Re: WARNING - Upper FLUMES loose cobble - on Where the Sun Shines
« Reply #20 on: February 14, 2025, 03:35:21 PM »
Maybe before you start the actual re bolting you can rap down each route and have someone like Brad help assess which bolts need immediate attention.  Take some notes and return on another day and knock those out first.

^^^
I would be interested in what bolts need to be replaced.
My first climb at Pinnacles NP was at the Flumes, and I have hung and caught several falls there. So checking out crux bolts would be a good use of time. Especially since other than the Citadel this area likely sees the highest traffic of beginners on the West Side.
On the other hand lots of these bolts are less than 30 years old. Some 30 year old carbon steel bolts outside of water streaks have been tested and found to be nearly just as strong as original specs.

I obviously have no say and 0 experience in the field so take this with all the grains of salt you would like.
If a group of experienced rebolters wants to spend their time putting in new hardware I am all for it. I have very high respect for those that could be doing rad climbing in a gorgeous place but instead spend their time, sweat, and experience making the place safer and more enjoyable for others.

I feel like actually getting it done rather than expecting some arbitrary standard of experience is preferable.
As someone who has put in several shit bolts that needed to be removed, even while under watch of climbing mentors, I disagree with this statement. Like many have stated this area is highly trafficked, especially by those that don't inspect, just clip and go. Just "getting it done" seems like a dangerous attitude to approach rebolting with.

mynameismud

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Re: WARNING - Upper FLUMES loose cobble - on Where the Sun Shines
« Reply #21 on: February 15, 2025, 07:20:15 PM »
I do agree with those stating that there needs to be a certain level of experience when replacing bolts.  Most people botch the first couple of bolts, there is a tendency to wander a bit the first couple of times.  You really need to lock in, there is a certain level of pain and focus required.  Maybe bolters are just want to be masochists. 
Here's to sweat in your eye