WEEKEND UPDATE

[Gavin]

Glad you liked the route, Noal - the line for Shadow of the Colossus caught my eye the first time I went out there with Marco. I thought it turned out well. Definitely some interesting sequences moving up through it.

[Marco]

And judging by the amount of grunting and swearing Mikayla chucked out at that lower bulge? At least 10a.

Woah there Mr. Young! If Mikayla ever saw this message, I would say I hope you know a good lawyer because that is Slander.
She cruised that route with no hesitation, making it look too easy for her.


Always have a bunch of fun climbing with Gavin. When we were working on the route, we were brainstorming Titan names as at the time I thought the formation was called the Titan not Colossus. It wasn't until talking about the completed route with Brad that I realized I had mixed up formation names.



Gavin as per usual is the true hookmaster and resident confident climber. Notice there is only one bolt on the route in this picture. Gavin working on current bolt 3.

[Brad Young]

Went out to Juniper Canyon yesterday with Marco, Mikayla, and  Brad the guidebook guy. Climbed some of Marco and Gavin's new routes. Got scraped up in a wide crack, led a couple of fun 5.7's , TR'd a super good 10b, and did a 3 pitch easy 5th  adventure climb.  It was a fun day.  Route of the day goes to Shadow of the Colossus.  Good rock and fun climb.   Here's Mikayla getting started on the route.

Odd how Mikayla is wearing a shirt that is identical in color to the one Gavin is wearing in the photo above. I thought at first that you'd accidentally put a photo her where you meant to put one of Gavin. But no, the helmets are different. And Gavin is clearly drilling a bolt.

[clink]

 What I want to know, the screw depicted on the construction hoodie, is it stainless?

[burnsbabe]

Went out with Brad and a friend of mine who's very occasionally around here yesterday. We toured the High Peaks, modeled for Brad, and did a little climbing. I've now got my shot on Photographer's Delight, did some 4th class solo/scrambling, and something with "an alpine character" according to Brad, who wanted a photo from way off. It's up near the outhouse on the top of the ridge. The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss), with an awkward rappel. Oh well, still had fun.

And yes, Brad's still feeling the offwidth from a few days earlier.

[NOAL]

The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss), with an awkward rappel. Oh well, still had fun.

Trying to think what this could be.  The awkward rappel part is throwing me.

[clink]

 I’m always awkward rapping. Yes, both kinds of rapping.

[NOAL]

You would look good in a track suit, Kangol cap, and Adidas.  Don't forget the dookie chain.

[JC w KC redux]

Trying to think what this could be.  The awkward rappel part is throwing me.

Pun intended?

New rule - all posts should be vague and result in a guessing game.

The climb itself was wall to wall carpet (moss)

[Brad Young]

Trying to think what this could be.  The awkward rappel part is throwing me.

It's a route up below the Scout Peak outhouse. It goes to the summit of a big formation called The Clipper. I wanted photos that would show something different than the usual straight up or down shots. And which would illustrate that not all climbs go straight up something anyway; some are mountaineering type routes (that is, they go to a summit, usually by the easiest means possible, using long traverses if needed - you know, like climbing in the bigger mountains).

I'm hoping that there's room for one of these two shots in the guidebook (Elaine, in red, leading, and Natalie, in blue belaying/following):







Not sure why pulling the rope was hard for them. Lots of things can happen and it was a pretty normal pull when I did the route. Needless to say, they did what was necessary and got their rope back.

[JC w KC redux]

Thank you oh great mystery revealer!
I am one of the few other people that has climbed that route. I went out there and Kat didn't want to follow so I just went back. I sent you a pic of me out on the prow but it wasn't great. I like the first picture. The wall to wall moss was a red herring.

[Brad Young]

Actually J.C., it was the pic of you that got me thinking about getting a more unique shot, one that shows the whole thing.

[NOAL]

Ahh.  I know that rock.  To the right of the tunnel.

[burnsbabe]

Thank you oh great mystery revealer!
I am one of the few other people that has climbed that route. I went out there and Kat didn't want to follow so I just went back. I sent you a pic of me out on the prow but it wasn't great. I like the first picture. The wall to wall moss was a red herring.

Well, the "outward bound" front side of each of the mini-summits was nothing but moss. A cool route none the less, though less exposed than I was expecting to feel before starting it. The photos are genuinely neat though.

[JC w KC redux]

Well, the "outward bound" front side of each of the mini-summits was nothing but moss.

All right - I didn't remember how mossy it was. Here are some notes from my log;

I thought this was really fun and it had me chuckling and grinning before during and after. I would give it a star. I did it in my approach shoes because of all the moss.

The downclimbing was a little tricky and the holds were solid, good sized but sparse. Brad brushed off the essential holds so I could see where he went. I just took my time and figured it out.

The black moss is very thick and you would definitely not want to do this thing if it was wet. It was fun though and I would do it again. Climbing back makes following unnecessary (which would be a drag unless you back belayed by leaving screwlinks on both bolts (an easy way to negate any danger). 

[JC w KC redux]

When I hear that name it reminds me of the scene from Little Man Tate

"Clipper Ships by Fred Tate"

"Me and my dad make models of clipper ships."

"Clipper ships sail on the ocean."

"Clipper ships never sail on rivers or lakes."

"I like clipper ships because they are fast."

"Clipper ships have lots of sails and are made of wood."

[burnsbabe]

All right - I didn't remember how mossy it was. Here are some notes from my log;

I thought this was really fun and it had me chuckling and grinning before during and after. I would give it a star. I did it in my approach shoes because of all the moss.

The downclimbing was a little tricky and the holds were solid, good sized but sparse. Brad brushed off the essential holds so I could see where he went. I just took my time and figured it out.

The black moss is very thick and you would definitely not want to do this thing if it was wet. It was fun though and I would do it again. Climbing back makes following unnecessary (which would be a drag unless you back belayed by leaving screwlinks on both bolts (an easy way to negate any danger). 

I did follow, and it was dry, so it was fine in that respect. I agree about the downclimbing. I had one small section I used for a left foot kinda crumble away at the bottom of the first downclimb, but it was fine. Climbing back does save you from the slog up the scree back to the beginning, which I found the least enjoyable part of this one.

[JC w KC redux]

Some followers would not be pleased. Leading it is fine since you are essentially on TR for the downclimbs (although there is too much rope stretch for the belay to be very meaningful at a certain point). Following you are SOL on the downclimbs as far as protection goes - just enough to keep you from falling into the abyss if you were to tumble completely off (not likely).

Mr. Mud would just free solo it.   

[NOAL]

in Teva's

[Brad Young]

Naked.