A List: New And Newly Found Routes Since the 2007 Guidebook

[JC w KC redux]

Looks good.

[JC w KC redux]

A List: New And Newly Found Routes Since the 2007 Guidebook

Now that the A List routes are done I'd like to propose a list for B List routes

Munchkin 5.9*

Teeny Tiny Tower's Notch-O Libre 5.4

Birdbrain Pinnacle 5.0

Owlsley Oops 5.2R

Found these gems while looking for pics of Chubby Rain today.

Owlsley Oops next to The Owl. No pro, bad rock, nifty fall potential.





Atop Teeny Tiny Towers vis Notch-O-Libre



Now where is that pesky Birdbrain?
Keep looking...keep looking...you'll find it!

[JC w KC redux]

Okay I found it.

Centered at fairly low water level





Low water level with the whole route shown - I mean c'mon - it even looks like a bird.





On the summit but taken from the wrong angle - looks 3 feet tall behind another mass of rock.
Only pinnacle with a water landing.
Total classic - plus Mud said he did it in flip flops

[NOAL]

We are eagerly awaiting your guidebook.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
You couldn't pay me to do that shit.
Well you could but no one could afford my rates.
Then someone would still have to raise the money to get it published.
I don't know how Brad does it.
All I can figure is he is part machine (I've always suspected he is a robot) and part masochist.
Machinochist?

[clink]

 Probably a wind-up, but that's a phenomenal amount of winding.

[JC w KC redux]

We are eagerly awaiting your guidebook.

With all the buzz about my new guidebook, I thought I should share some exciting photos of the routes to add to the hype.
Here's a couple of Notch-O-Libre

Gripped midway





Tricky and committing crux maneuver





Here's Noal on the FA of Ho Ho Ho

[mungeclimber]

These are what we call Premium Miniatures, in the language of Mt Woodshun.

[NOAL]

Here's Noal on the FA of Ho Ho Ho 

"It was so unremarkable that I do not remember it at all."
-Noal Elkins Rock Snob

You can print that on the back of the guidebook.

 That is me, the orange fleece is toast but I still have the red beanie.  It has smokey the bear on the front and says "only you".

I see Ho Ho Ho and Oh Oh Oh but where is No No No?

[mynameismud]

Is Brad putting boulder problems in the guide?  There are a bunch

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Nope

Mung Bean and clunk should work on a separate bouldering guide.

[Brad Young]

Is Brad putting boulder problems in the guide?  There are a bunch

No. Never. Nope. Negatory.

Get the point?

[clink]

 Love the V

[mungeclimber]

Love the V

Is that a euphemism?


Ewe Far Mism?

[clink]

 
 The boulder problems we climbed at Pinnacles, Yosemite and on the coast were rated with the YDS 5.1 -5.11...I didn't like a change to a different rating system.

 I tried at first to convert the V ratings to YDS and eventually gave up and used the V ratings for bouldering. Was that the case for anyone else at Castle Rock State Park, Yosemite, Santa Barbara and Pinnacles...?

[mynameismud]

If I can do the problem, I rate it V2

[JC w KC redux]

I tried at first to convert the V ratings to YDS and eventually gave up and used the V ratings for bouldering.

Math is hard. Consult Bouldering Barbie and if that doesn't work - the cat can probably help you.

[clink]

If I can do the problem, I rate it V2

 Now this reminds me of the legendary john Gill and his B ratings. there could be no B3 was how it was explained to us. Problems were rated B1 of B2. A B3 was a hypothetical rating of harder problem or not yet accomplished boulder problem. The exact moment a B3 was climbed it became a B2!

 

Early bouldering & short climbs

Gill on Red Cross Rock Eliminate V9. With initial fingertip hold on the right the problem is V7.
In the Tetons, in 1958, John Gill climbed a short route on Baxter's Pinnacle that lies in the 5.10 realm, before that grade was formally recognized — one of the first to be done in America.[15] By the end of the 1950s, Gill had reached what would now be considered V9 levels on a few eliminate boulder problems. (He later stated he probably never progressed beyond V10 throughout his climbing career.[13]).

Two of his problems on Red Cross Rock in the Tetons — a V8 in 1957 and a V9 in 1959 — set new standards of bouldering difficulty. And his 1961 route on a steep face of a small granite spire named the Thimble[16] (Needles of South Dakota) — an unrehearsed and unroped 30-foot 5.12a free-solo climb (or V4 or V5 highball)— is considered one of the great classics of modern climbing, and — if considered a climb (as Gill did) — may well be the first at the 5.12 grade.[15][17] Gill climbed the route without the benefit of modern climbing shoes, significantly increasing the difficulty of the climb.

"B" Grading system
In the 1950s, John Gill introduced a very early – if not the first – grading system specifically designed for bouldering and not restricted to a particular area.[1] The system, (B1, B2, B3), had two subjective levels of difficulty, and one objective level, and was predicated on prevailing and future standards attained in traditional rock climbing. The introduction of sport climbing some twenty years later and more intense competition weakened the philosophical underpinnings of the three-tiered structure, although climbers such as Jim Holloway adopted personal three-level systems similar to Gill's. Today, Gill's B-system is rarely used, abandoned in favor of open-ended grading systems such as the V-scale.

Wikipedia

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
Just another load of B shit.

B longs in the cat box.

[clink]

^^^
Just another load of B shit.

B longs in the cat box.

 That is the same as i feel when one of those Cadillac Exgetlaids with the spinning rims and bass thumping, pulls up next to my work truck. Not my dream.