Author Topic: Starr Struck  (Read 33861 times)

Jim

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Starr Struck
« on: November 05, 2018, 06:34:04 PM »
Excellent rock, excellent views, excellent partner!

Luck of the draw gave me the two 5.8 cruxes.  And Brad got the two classic 5.7 cruxes.



Route starts up the left of the two dark water streaks.



Another beautiful Sierra summit (a great way to cap the season after getting Red Kaweah, Middle Pal, Sill, Polemonium, Mt Magee)



Two very happy climbers.

clink

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2018, 06:57:33 PM »
Quote
Excellent rock, excellent views, excellent partner!

Luck of the draw gave me the two 5.8 cruxes.  And Brad got the two classic 5.7 cruxes.
Two very happy climbers.

 Sweet!
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2018, 07:38:26 PM »
Here's a close-up of the whole route, starting in the left streak:



And here's the route description:

Starr Struck

Starr Struck  5.8 ***  This route climbs a prominent water streak on Mount Starr King’s southwest side (it’s actually two streaks in its lowest 250 feet).  The streak is visible from as much as half a mile away, it ends at the bottom of the peak’s standard descent.

Gear:  Quickdraws, slings and six to eight pieces from one-quarter to two inches.  One three inch cam could be used at one belay, but is optional (see Pitch 5, below).

Pitch 1 (110 feet, 5.7)  Start on top of a six-foot high flake at the base of the left part of the streak.  Committing moves lead to a thin but solid left-facing flake (gear).  Continue up and a little right onto a headwall and the route’s first bolt.  Move up and left, passing a small hole (more gear).  Two more bolts protect easier climbing to a two-bolt anchor at a stance.

Pitch 2 (105 feet, 5.8 )  Continue up the left streak past five bolts to a two bolt anchor and a hanging belay.  The fifth bolt protects 5.8 moves over a headwall (the route’s first crux).

Pitch 3 (110 feet, 5.5)  Continue climbing on remarkable holes and scoops past four bolts and then, very near the end of the pitch, gear.  Two bolts provide a belay at a nice stance.

Pitch 4 (110 feet, 5.8 )  The streak continues easy as it narrows.  One bolt 30 feet up protects moves to lower-angle climbing.  Pass a second bolt.  Reach a third bolt which protects moves into a steeper, thin part of the streak, and the route’s second crux.  One more  bolt protects lower-angle climbing to a two-bolt anchor.  Note that retreating from the top of this pitch is easy with a single 70 meter rope, but that no easy, single-rope retreat is possible higher.

Pitch 5 (215 feet, 5.2)  Move up and right from the belay 20 feet to a thin water streak and very featured rock.  Continue straight up, past bolts at 45 and 110 feet.  Reach the right side of a huge ledge 200 feet from the start (this ledge is 50 feet from right to left, inclined up to the left and slopes noticeably inward).  Move to the left end of the ledge, where a one-bolt anchor can be supplemented with gear (the best piece would be a three-inch cam, but this is the only place on the route where that gear would be used; smaller cams work adequately here).

Pitch 6 (225 feet, 5.4)  Move up and a little right toward a fairly faint, black streak (not the same as the thin, very prominent, grey-colored streak 10 to 15 feet to its left).  Very easy climbing leads to a bolt 90 feet from the start.  The bolt protects a slight bulge.  Continue higher, now left of another, faint, black streak.  Two more protection bolts are found at 125 and 185 feet.  Finish at a small ledge and a two-bolt anchor directly below the left end of an obvious, white roof.

Pitch 7 (230 feet, 5.0)  Climb straight up from the anchor.  Pass one bolt 70 feet up.  Belay from gear in the left-most of several left-facing corner/flakes (find it 60 feet up and right of, and across a slab from, the obvious, large pine).

Pitch 8 (120 feet, Class Four)  Continue straight up across overlapping flakes (gear).  Aim for a point 110 feet above the belay where it is easy to move up and right, over one last overlap, onto easy ground.  Four hundred feet of class two and three lead from the end of this pitch to Mount Starr King’s summit.



mungeclimber

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2018, 07:43:10 PM »
Sweet!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2018, 07:43:35 PM »
That looks nice
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2018, 08:41:46 PM »
And to clarify, I led the crux pitches on later trips, after Jim led their first ascents (yes, luck of the draw that he got to lead them first). Obviously I wouldn't claim to have climbed the route unless I had led at least one of the cruxes  :o

The 5.8 ratings are mine (strangely enough he agreed with them  :P  ;D ). Both cruxes are relatively short and are well protected.

I posted these photos after one of our trips late last year, but they're worth putting up again. Here's the first pitch headwall:




A strange placement that I think would have held a fall (saved placing a bolt!):




Looking at the streak while rappelling down:


mungeclimber

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2018, 09:17:26 PM »
Perfect Totem placement!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2018, 09:45:38 PM »

Perfect Totem placement!


You mean other than the fact that that's not a Totem?  :P ::)

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2018, 09:57:26 PM »
Meanwhile that wack-nut oldest of mine did Mount Whitney in a day today (related to this thread because she had dinner with Jim and Wendy on the way down last evening and those are Jim's crampons she's wearing):




clink

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2018, 12:30:26 AM »
Quote
Meanwhile that wack-nut oldest of mine did Mount Whitney in a day today

  ;D  Would be a nice touch instead of your given name on the front of the next Pinnacles guide.  ;D
Causing trouble when not climbing.

briham89

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2018, 12:17:45 PM »
Very cool

mungeclimber

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2018, 05:23:13 PM »
WIAD is proud!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2018, 05:36:11 PM »

WIAD is proud!


I wonder if Whitney is proud of Whitney in a day. Today.

CruxLuv

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2018, 11:20:55 AM »

And here's the route description:


...drooling...
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

F4?

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2018, 11:31:17 AM »
Them Crampons are sacred if they were worn by Jim!

Nice route! maybe next year.

I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2018, 01:06:44 PM »
lot of brush at the base, I just noticed. What's the approach beta? 

Is a third ascent still highly coveted?  Asking for a friend.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #16 on: November 08, 2018, 04:36:34 PM »
 Starrk Naked ascent? Still coveted? I'm asking for Munge.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #17 on: November 08, 2018, 05:20:08 PM »

lot of brush at the base, I just noticed. What's the approach beta?  

Is a third ascent still highly coveted?  Asking for a friend.


Now there's a boy who's spent some time in the mountains. Yeah, 5.96 miles I think is what Jim measured by way of the approach. And 200 yards of that is just shit brush. The last 200 yards to the granite base of the domes.

Tell your "friend" (we didn't think that was possible, but are glad it is so) that the climbing is well worth the approach (certainly an easier approach than Snake Dike).

I drew a map that shows what I think is the easiest approach. I'll get it up on Flickr and post it here.

And what's with the "third ascent" thing?

Brad Young

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #18 on: November 08, 2018, 05:28:16 PM »
I notice that on the map I wrote 100 yards of brush. I formed an impression last time I was in there that it was 200 yards. Lets go with the bigger number  ::)



mungeclimber

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Re: Starr Struck
« Reply #19 on: November 08, 2018, 09:06:41 PM »
Starrk Naked ascent? Still coveted? I'm asking for Munge.


ssssshhhhhh
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge