Resurrection Wall - dry by Sunday?

[Runout]

Anyone know if Resurrection Wall P1 is likely to be dry by Sunday? Hasn't been raining that much except past 48 hours.

Thanks

[Brad Young]

That is the one pitch of that thing that tends to stay wet, Tony. It's very mossy and not as well sheltered as the rest of the climb. I'd be very surprised if it were dry by Sunday (with what now, two inches of rain down there).

On the other hand, the bolts are replaced and would hold a fall if you slipped on wet terrain

[mynameismud]

wow, 2 inches of rain. 

[Runout]

Do you recall if P1 is climbable when wet?

[Brad Young]

Do you recall if P1 is climbable when wet?

Not to be too much of a smart-ass, but yes, I recall: wet it's "scary, slippery 5.9" instead of "normal 5.9."

I'm usually pretty comfortable on Pinnacles 5.9, and the one time I led that pitch damp, I pulled on draws (but the bolts are far enough apart that that's not much help). It was unpleasant, but I reached the anchor.

[clink]

 It's slick as snot wet. Fly like an eagle.

 Somebody should do the direct finish up the last of the main water chute. There looked to me that a #11 hex might fit between the huge loadstone and an adjoining one.

[Runout]

Balconies it is. 5.11a vs 5.11a + wet approach pitch.

Anyone know if any of the 11's (No Sense of Measure, Powers that Be, Electric Blue) have seen traffic/cleaned up recently? Wondering if anyone's done dirt clod removal this season on any of them.

[Brad Young]

Wondering if anyone's done dirt clod removal this season on any of them.

Tony,

I am sincerely worried about your view of Pinnacles. Dirt clods? OMFG, everyone knows that those routes don't have dirt clods.

Perhaps I could suggest some nice warm granite? Or, I've got it, how about an outdoor gym not so far from Sonora that is utterly filled with nice, pleasant climbers?   

[mungeclimber]

Balconies closed for raptors, no?  But I forget if the boundaries have limits on either end or p1s or not.

[clink]

We are doomed.

[Brad Young]

Balconies closed for raptors, no?  But I forget if the boundaries have limits on either end or p1s or not.

Not closed until this coming Tuesday.

I'm certain of this since I'm climbing Monday on The Balconies with Gavin   

[mungeclimber]

Thx. Was thinking 6th, but its the 16th.

[Brad Young]

Thx. Was thinking 6th, but its the 16th.

Yes, my dad's 83rd birthday (hoping to go over and take him to lunch that day).

[Runout]

I grew up climbing Pinns West on dirt clods. It's like ice climbing without all the gear and slightly worse pro. And it keeps the crowds away! What's not to love?

In fairness, the Balconies less traveled lines are the only ones I've had to do dirt clod removal. On Machete, the trick is to put the rock back where it broke off from. Citadel doesn't have so many people below, so just let the rock fly. Until the rebolt on Resurrection it seemed like you had to make sure not to accidentally break off bolts.

[Runout]

Edit: It used to be like having worse pro than an ice route. But don't go telling too many people about the new fat shiny bolts.

[mynameismud]

Balconies should be good.

[clink]

I grew up climbing Pinns West on dirt clods.

 Part of this statement is true for me as well.

[Brad Young]

I grew up climbing Pinns West on dirt clods. It's like ice climbing without all the gear and slightly worse pro. And it keeps the crowds away! What's not to love?

In fairness, the Balconies less traveled lines are the only ones I've had to do dirt clod removal. On Machete, the trick is to put the rock back where it broke off from. Citadel doesn't have so many people below, so just let the rock fly. Until the rebolt on Resurrection it seemed like you had to make sure not to accidentally break off bolts.

The funny thing about rockfall at Pinns is how much some people mention it. And in mentioning it there's always the implied idea that that much superior rock, granite, doesn't suffer from this extreme flaw (sometimes the idea isn't implied - it's stated expressly, and then often with an air of assumed superiority).

And then El Cap cuts loose with a 16 foot thick, football field sized rock that kills a guy.

Rockfall at Pinnacles? Dangerous? My lily-white ass  

[mungeclimber]

Rockfall at Pinnacles? Dangerous? My lily-white ass  

Much like hurricanes; its not THAT the wind blows, but WHAT the winds blows.

Its not that the rock comes off, but WHAT it breaks under.

[mynameismud]

or perhaps what is under it when it breaks