Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 607071 times)

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2500 on: October 25, 2023, 12:33:14 PM »
I led that pitch.  Sibylle was thinking the same thing you were.  Some of the features at Red Rock are so unique.  Like Armatron.  I thought the route was OK but pitch 6? that looks like a big candy bar is the main attraction.  I did it all with nuts. 

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6736
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2501 on: October 25, 2023, 01:03:18 PM »
^^^

It takes balls to use nuts.

burnsbabe

  • Cobble Crimpers
  • ***
  • Posts: 65
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2502 on: October 25, 2023, 02:52:16 PM »
^^^

It takes balls to use nuts.

Where as, it's nuts to use ball(nut)s.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2503 on: October 25, 2023, 03:50:32 PM »
My climbing partner for that trip Dave did not have a Sundae.   He also did not want to do my original plan for that trip where we stayed at the Hooters Casino and could only eat chicken wings and drink beer for the whole week.  What a party pooper.

Real wings are garbage meat, but if I could sub out boneless wings (or chicken strips, as they're called in the real world) that sounds like just my type of terrible idea.

But a heads up: no one plan a trip to RR the first weekend in April. I'm planning to be there then, and some mischievous weather sprite has had my number the last few years, so it's guaranteed to rain there that weekend.  ::)

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2504 on: October 25, 2023, 03:58:17 PM »
It's gonna rain and you will have to stay at Hooters and eat wings.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2505 on: October 25, 2023, 04:04:50 PM »
It's gonna rain and you will have to stay at Hooters and eat wings.

My cousin is too enlightened to stay at Hooters and I'm too picky to eat wings. We'll just snuggle in the bed of his T100 and drink beer.

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2506 on: October 25, 2023, 04:10:59 PM »
Dave didn't want to stay at Hooters and he ended up with a tick on his testicle.  We were there for a week and he did not notice until the last day. Shoulda stayed at Hooters.  The only thing wrong with Hooters is those panty hose they make them wear.

looks easy from here

  • Mudders
  • **
  • Posts: 161
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2507 on: October 25, 2023, 04:17:42 PM »
Dave didn't want to stay at Hooters and he ended up with a tick on his testicle.  We were there for a week and he did not notice until the last day.

Oof! I got a tick my only trip there, fortunately is was on a much less worse place. And it woke me up enough in the middle of the night to check the weather and realize that 4" of snow was coming in, so we needed to bail. Silver linings, and all that...

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2508 on: October 25, 2023, 04:24:11 PM »
Snow there is nice.  Dave got the tick the first day when we slept on the ground. There were a pack of coyotes howling nearby. He was zipping and unzipping his sleeping bag because he was afraid the coyotes would attack him when he was zipped in the bag.  Tick got in the bag. We took a shower at the gym and he said it was huge like when you pick them off a dog.

That guy was pretty entertaining.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6633
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2509 on: October 31, 2023, 04:49:38 PM »

Happy Halloweenie!!!

Wanna see some scary stuff? a half? driven quarter inch button head totally crooked. At least it had a good hanger to help pull it out in a fall  :yikes:

 



Not a great picture but this is the old mid-belay bolt on North Finger East Edge 5.7R
Star dryvin half? driven and bent to shit with the sleeve under the Leeper hanger...





Star dryvin that popped out with a few light taps of the tuning fork (Atlas Shrugs mid belay). Completely under-driven and bent in an under-drilled hole - quite the booby trap.





And one just for fun (Kat follows North Finger East Edge 5.7R) Trick or Treat?

One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

  • Grand Master
  • ***
  • Posts: 6736
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2510 on: October 31, 2023, 05:05:21 PM »
Is any of that today’s work? Or just scary shit accumulated over time?

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2511 on: October 31, 2023, 09:41:56 PM »
Oldies but goodies

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6633
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2512 on: November 01, 2023, 08:23:27 AM »

Noal is correct - it's the latter.

That is Noal's hand - he "pulled" that bolt from the Atlas Shrugs belay

That horrible star dryvin on North Finger is still there. It evidently has no sleeve (according to my previous report - see link below).

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1587.msg46230#msg46230
One wheel shy of "normal"

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2513 on: November 01, 2023, 11:01:22 AM »
Quote
That is Noal's hand - he "pulled" that bolt from the Atlas Shrugs belay

When I climbed Atlas Shrugged we used that mid belay.  If I remember correctly the R section is above that anchor.  When we re bolted it all we had to do was put the tuning fork behind the hanger and were able to pull it out with just our fingers.

There was another bolt on the next route over Fast Lane that had a really long Dryvin bolt maybe 3"  It also came out in the same manner.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6633
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2514 on: November 01, 2023, 03:46:39 PM »
When I climbed Atlas Shrugged we used that mid belay.  If I remember correctly the R section is above that anchor.  When we re bolted it all we had to do was put the tuning fork behind the hanger and were able to pull it out with just our fingers.

I have some pictures of all the webbing people left on that mid anchor and the knob they tied off and incorporated as a backup. It's quite a ways up to the only lead bolt on p2. The first pitch looks pretty "sporty" too with wide bolt spacings and unfortunately a pin. Sadly, I never went back and led that route.


There was tat on the lead bolt





Closeup of the old mid anchor cluster on Atlas Shrugs





There was another bolt on the next route over Fast Lane that had a really long Dryvin bolt maybe 3"  It also came out in the same manner.

Nice memory dude. I think that was originally a single bolt mid-belay, the stopping point of an unfinished route or the original party ran it from there to the top (Beyer?). That route was a mess and a mystery but it climbs nice now. It appeared to be retrobolted past that long star dryin. I didn't remember how easily that long bolt came out (you removed it - just like the one at the mid belay on Atlas Shrugs) but I did put that information in my rebolting notes at the time (2015)  :thumbup:



One wheel shy of "normal"

Marco

  • Cobble Crimpers
  • ***
  • Posts: 64
  • Budding 5.6 Climber
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2515 on: November 01, 2023, 04:24:27 PM »
I thought Pinns season was yet to start?!

For some of us Pinns season never ended. Gavin and I spent many weekends of July and August enjoying perfect conditions on the Citadel  ;)

On Sunday we checked out Liebacker's Lullaby. Here is some pictures of the money, 3rd, pitch. 1st Gavin on lead and 2nd me following. This climb had been on my list for a few years and actually the reason I bought a #6. Truly a unique climb and definitely the only 3 pitch climb I've done at the Pinns without clipping a bolt. All pitches were good rock but man was that 3rd pitch awesome!










NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2516 on: November 01, 2023, 04:59:27 PM »
I really like that route.  Did you end up using the #6? 

The Citadel really does have perfect temps in the summer.  Usually around 3pm there's a breeze that kicks in. Easy place to spend all day.

Marco

  • Cobble Crimpers
  • ***
  • Posts: 64
  • Budding 5.6 Climber
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2517 on: November 01, 2023, 05:36:53 PM »
We found spots for the #6 on every pitch of the route. I actually only had small cams and the #6 reaching the P2 belay and the #6 fit.

Yes exactly. The hike to and from was usually hot as heck but the afternoon breeze was great.

NOAL

  • Pin Heads
  • *
  • Posts: 1407
  • Hit Lichen Scrub
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2518 on: November 01, 2023, 05:49:22 PM »
It's always good to get rid of the #6 to the follower as soon as possible.

JC w KC redux

  • Moderator
  • *****
  • Posts: 6633
  • my density has brought me to you...
Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #2519 on: November 01, 2023, 06:14:32 PM »
For some of us Pinns season never ended.

Thank you.

Go to the first post of this thread,
One wheel shy of "normal"