Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Marco]

Additionally here is a picture of Brad getting a rope over Wart.

[NOAL]

Bet no one can guess what's going on there.  Looks like the rope is attacking Brad.  Great photo!

[looks easy from here]

That picture is amazing! XD

[clink]

 Guidebook cover quality!

[JC w KC redux]

Best rope toss pic I have

[NOAL]

He's whipping the rope hoping the chalk bag with rock in it might fall off the other side.  It took about a dozen tries of throwing the chalk bag over and in the process totally trashed Shane's new chalk bag. 

[Brad Young]

He's whipping the rope hoping the chalk bag with rock in it might fall off the other side.  It took about a dozen tries and in the process totally trashed Shane's new chalk bag.

And somehow trashing HIS chalkbag didn't bother any of the others of us much      

[JC w KC redux]

Nylon string around a rock might work.

Did you hold services for the chalk bag?

[Brad Young]

No services. But we left the large rock that we'd placed in the bag sitting in the open. Totally coated with chalk and no-where near any climbing. A mystery for anyone that gets out there in the next while (sooo unlikely thought)?

[JC w KC redux]

Did anyone check out Nip and Tuck? I couldn't figure it out or commit to the ledge fall potential (bolt is too low and was obviously aided and added by someone after the FA).

[Brad Young]

Did anyone check out Nip and Tuck? I couldn't figure it out or commit to the ledge fall potential (bolt is too low and was obviously aided and added by someone after the FA).

Two leads and two follows. Bolt worked if clipped with one locker. Consensus is that it is 5.9 now; the change has been made in the new book.

("Bolt worked" in that it provided a high likelihood of preventing a ledge-fall; would work best if the belayer is heavier than the leader.)

[JC w KC redux]

Two leads and two follows. Bolt worked if clipped with one locker. Consensus is that it is 5.9 now; the change has been made in the new book.

("Bolt worked" in that it provided a high likelihood of preventing a ledge-fall; would work best if the belayer is heavier than the leader.)

I did clip it with a single locker but that one small hold over the lip (long reach) definitely didn't feel 5.8.
I had to hang and still couldn't figure it out - maybe just hesitated too much and got pumped. I wrote in my log that it felt harder than the Old Route 5.9 near Gertie's.

[Brad Young]

I did clip it with a single locker but that one small hold over the lip (long reach) definitely didn't feel 5.8.
I had to hang and still couldn't figure it out - maybe just hesitated too much and got pumped. I wrote in my log that it felt harder than the Old Route 5.9 near Gertie's.

Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.

[JC w KC redux]

Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.

I probably only had one hand up there when I should have been matching.

Thanks for the play by play. I'll get one of those around the neck harmonica holders and put a post-it on it for my next summit attempt!

[looks easy from here]

And somehow trashing HIS chalkbag didn't bother any of the others of us much      

To be fair, it didn't bother him much either. 

[JC w KC redux]

To be fair, it didn't bother him much either. 

Shane - How was that climb up Hidden Pinnacle? Did you sling any branches on the tree? It looked like you got up there fast.

That tree looks like it is on its last leg.

[looks easy from here]

Shane - How was that climb up Hidden Pinnacle? Did you sling any branches on the tree? It looked like you got up there fast.

That tree looks like it is on its last leg.

Limb 1 is too thick to girth hitch with a 60cm and needs a 120cm, limb 2 can be wrapped with a 60cm, from there you can get to the bolts. Hardest move is off the ground. I was pretty tickled to climb it. It was just my blend of fun and preposterous. Especially since I don't know if that tree will still be solid or even standing next time I'm out that way.

[Brad Young]

...it looked like you got up there fast.

Pretty fast, but I took five other photos between the ones I posted.

[JC w KC redux]

Limb 1 is too thick to girth hitch with a 60cm and needs a 120cm, limb 2 can be wrapped with a 60cm, from there you can get to the bolts. Hardest move is off the ground. I was pretty tickled to climb it. It was just my blend of fun and preposterous. Especially since I don't know if that tree will still be solid or even standing next time I'm out that way.

Thanks for that.
Tick Tock...

[Czech it out]

Semi-side-pull hands, right foot smeared up on not-much, and left foot up and over onto the summit slab. Rock over on to the left foot.

Being short and weak, I was unable to make this work. But being a bit hypermobile, I figured out the following: left hand on that one small hold over the lip (long reach), right hand on the not-much that Brad suggests smearing up on, left foot on another not-much roughly below that one small hold. Pull with left hand, push with right hand and step right foot onto a very good ~2in lodestone (see Brad, I'm learning) about the same height as not-much and some 2ft to the right of it. Stand up on that, readjust and then basically execute Brad's beta.