Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Brad Young]

Also, not trying to be lazy I just don’t have access to the guidebook right now. Is there anything else near Wind Willow Rock that has easy/moderate routes.  Have been wanting to check out Wind Willow areas but only have a day so want to pack in as much as possible.

No, nothing anywhere near. You'll have to hike back to Old Pinnacles trailhead and drive to another East Side Location. Or continue another mile and half on Old Pinnacles Trail to the West Side.

It's a pretty cool location though and, in my opinion, worth a whole day.

[russ p]

Thanks Brad

[russ p]

Are both those 5.10 routes able to be top roped?

[Brad Young]

Are both those 5.10 routes able to be top roped?

What 5.10 routes are you referencing??

[Brad Young]

What 5.10 routes are you referencing??

Oh yeah, duh. It just occurred to me while I was outside working. The 5.10s at Wind Willow Rock?

The 5.10c is easy to toprope. It's right below a two-bolt anchor it shares with the leftmost 5.7.

The 5.10a would be tough to toprope. It moves sideways enough - especially through the crux - that it would need gear and bolt directionals to avoid a big swing on toprope.

[JC w KC redux]

We met some people on the trail near Spike's Peak last Friday and they had taken some pics of us climbing Illicit Chimney Dome from Condor Gulch trail. While I was leading, there was a curious juvenile condor flying around the dome and we heard it land but didn't realize how close it was. Sneaky little devil...

[NOAL]

92?

[clink]

 64

[NOAL]

The bird is not that smart.

[JC w KC redux]

I wasn't able to see the number clear enough to say but it came over the pinnacle at least once while I was getting started and it landed before I got to the top. It wasn't one I've seen before (number? or tag color) and I'm pretty sure it was a juvenile - smallish and didn't look as much like (name omitted to keep me out of hot water) as most of the birds.

[Atomizer]

That bird must have been really disappointed when it realized that you were not a bag of Cheetos.

[JC w KC redux]

That bird must have been really disappointed when it realized that you were not a bag of Cheetos.

That's funny dude. You may have missed your calling.

[JC w KC redux]

Got out again this weekend to share time with friends and climb a few new routes.
Friday we went up with Brad to check out Marco's new route Poppi's Poppies 5.7*
Hats off to Marco for creating a fine edition to the area rope solo. Nice job dude. 
It is a fun route with ample protection, good rock, fun movement, a few nice surprises and nice length (about 90 feet).
It is also closer to parking than almost any route up the Juniper Canyon Trail.
It's shady early.

Here's a butt shot of me leading below the crux





At a nice stance (well above the crux) and comfortable enough for a snap of my trusty partner





Walking back out through the poppies

[JC w KC redux]

Here is a location/photo topo for some of the new routes. The path up Dominant Dome climbing is shown in yellow (partially obscured by trees) and the big black arrow points to the higher of the two summits (which is climbed from the backside). Dominant Dome's two-bolt rappel anchor is shown near the base of the smaller summit tower as one X to avoid overcrowding. Poppi's Poppies is shown in blue. Other formations are labeled for reference. 
The Tyrant can now be approached via Dominant Dome or Poppi's Poppies

The picture was taken from the Pink Giant approach trail - fairly near the start of that route.

[JC w KC redux]

Brad and I started a couple new lines (1 bolt each) to conclude the climbing activities on Friday.

I got one decent pic of him drilling.

[JC w KC redux]

Saturday we had a sizable meetup at parking and then parted ways to pursue three separate missions.
Our mission almost went bust when I got to the Bandit Boulders and confirmed they were indeed Cook-proof without some major shenanigans and tomfoolery to avoid the jungle of Poison Oak that guards them. I wasn't in the mood. We backtracked and went to Potluck Panic for a surprisingly wild time. For a short climb that route is pretty heady and a bit gymnastic. It starts with stemming to a muscle up to a ride-em-cowboy ridge (Brad says Dave Harden calls the latter part an Alley Oop). Stand up and the highly exposed and very skinny arete is IN YOUR FACE. Clamber up that to a very strangely shaped summit and don't say a word to your partner while you're setting up the belay (wouldn't want to spoil their fun now would we?).

Kat pulled the moves off like a champ, channeling her inner Jenn along the way. I was very proud of her and made sure she knew it. After she did the Alley Oop, I told her to think Heaven's Gate but shorter and easier. Neither of us took any pics (we had our hands full) - except for one of Kat rapping off.

We spent a lot of time Saturday acting as volunteers in the parking lot and on the trails. We gave guidance to and chatted with a wide variety and number of hikers and climbers. I even got to shout down a drone pilot at the start of the hike. We were on the switchbacks to Tilting Terrace and the pilot was at the Osiris pullout. He brought the craft down immediately and the adults with him apologized. I'm not sure they realized it but they had a falcon in a tizzy. If only I had a badge and a citation pad.
I was pleased to see a party on Upper Flumes.
There was tat on The Big Bad West anchor and an abandoned bouldering pad at Split Boulders.
It was a fun day.

[Brad Young]

Kat pulled the moves off like a champ, channeling her inner Jenn along the way....

Well maybe Jenn (BAP) will see this and explain. Seems unlikely, she's been way busy lately. But some explanation for those who aren't "in the know?" Really, honestly, I do try to keep her in mind when looking for bolt positions.

And Alley Oop! Anyone on here that understands the reference and is younger than 55 will be my hero.

[Marco]

Hats off to Marco for creating a fine edition to the area rope solo. Nice job dude. 

Thanks Cooks! I was thrilled to hear that you liked it.

Also thanks to JC & KC, Poppi's Poppies has a set of chains about 20 feet below the walk off anchor. The new length is about 75 ft - 7 lead bolts.
Thank you for the chain and quicklinks!

Additionally here is a picture I liked putting in the 4th* bolt. (I think 4th)

[JC w KC redux]

^
Your Poppi would be proud of you buddy.

I used to be okay with a single sling knob for drilling until I took a bad tumble.
You probably weren't hanging on that one though.
The best single hang ever was drilling the crux bolt on Mud Diamond. There was a funny story to go with it too (waaaay back in this thread).

clink seriously needs to get back in the fold (we miss you dude) 

[clink]

 Nice hanging out at your house for a few.

 Poppycock has gotta be the next route.