Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition) (Read 685373 times)

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1880 on:** August 06, 2020, 10:35:53 AM »

Quote from: Brad Young on August 06, 2020, 10:16:55 AM

Last time I was up there I could see rotten slings on the top anchor (we did that route before we'd started leaving chains). Any chance you had something quality to leave instead? Can I replace any chains you left, if you did?

There are Fixe flat, single ring hangers on both anchor bolts.
I've been looking at the route for years and never noticed any tat.
Rope pull is fine.

Brad Young · « **Reply #1881 on:** August 06, 2020, 10:44:33 AM »

Ah, well we did better than I thought.

clink · « **Reply #1882 on:** August 06, 2020, 01:49:16 PM »

Looks great JC, KC and Deb!

NOAL · « **Reply #1883 on:** August 06, 2020, 03:18:28 PM »

Nice. That's a fun one.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1884 on:** August 06, 2020, 03:28:13 PM »

Quote from: NOAL on August 06, 2020, 03:18:28 PM

Nice. That's a fun one.

Agreed. It's a bit tricky and challenging. I did lots of small stemming moves and body resets - downward palms and not much pulling.
I only had one small hand hold start cracking on me after clipping bolt 5 and I just switched to something else. There are some decent voids for fingertips where other stuff came off in the past.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1885 on:** August 13, 2020, 01:13:28 PM »

Looks like the Quest may have to wait a while.
The temperature forecast is usually off (typically low by about 5 degrees) and the forecast for the next few days is 105

105 is not really unusual for Pinns in the summertime but in an ironic twist, the forecast for our little coastal paradise is 93 for tomorrow! What?!

Even today was quite warm. I got out around 11:30 and it was already mid 70's (it's only been averaging daytime highs of mid 60's here lately).
On my return trip unicycling today, I encountered more cycling traffic than usual (usually there is none).
First there was a lady on a geared cruiser that I had talked to once before and then a neighborhood regular pedaled by on her trike with her little dog in the basket on the back.
I was talking to the lady on the cruiser and said - "I'm actually sweating today - this is unacceptable!" She asked how I normally tolerate the heat and I replied "I do okay...I go to Pinnacles a lot to rock climb when it's hot but I try to stay in the shade." To my surprise she said - "Oh...I have a small first ascent at Pinnacles." I replied "What's the name of the route?" She thought for a moment and said "Going the Wong Way." I said "I've done that route. That is a fun route. Steve Wong." She said "Yes...that is my ex husband."
Small world.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #1886 on:** August 13, 2020, 02:54:53 PM »

I’ve been on that, I think.

clink · « **Reply #1887 on:** August 13, 2020, 04:46:59 PM »

Quote

She said "Yes...that is my ex husband."
Small world.

After all.

NOAL · « **Reply #1888 on:** August 13, 2020, 04:49:17 PM »

Weird. I was thinking about that route name yesterday when I was going the wrong way. I have gone the Wong way too.

Brad Young · « **Reply #1889 on:** August 13, 2020, 05:11:05 PM »

Cue BAP to tell the story of how her kids used to answer the phone (remembering that her last name is pronounced Wong even though it is spelled Wang).

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1890 on:** August 13, 2020, 05:29:54 PM »

Quote from: clink on August 13, 2020, 04:46:59 PM

After all.

It's

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1891 on:** August 13, 2020, 05:36:15 PM »

Had to share something else especially since Mud was talking about buying a new helmet.

Seems a lot of the new helmets are coming with a magnetic buckle.

I bought the new Petzl helmet a while back (on sale) and stuck it on the shelf.
I finally took it out about a month ago.
I call it my styrofoam dome.
While I was leading a new route the other morning, I got up to the crux and just before I was getting ready to think about clipping the bolt, I felt my buckle come undone - whoopsie. I did absolutely nothing to cause it.
I fumbled to get it buckled and then proceeded over the crux with a puzzled feeling in my gut.
I'm gonna call Petzl.
Maybe I'll own that place

BAP · « **Reply #1892 on:** August 14, 2020, 08:03:48 AM »

Quote

Cue BAP to tell the story of how her kids used to answer the phone (remembering that her last name is pronounced Wong even though it is spelled Wang).

" You wing the wong number."

BAP · « **Reply #1893 on:** August 14, 2020, 08:18:14 AM »

Both my ex-husband and I are Wang.

My kids used to tell us "Two wongs don't make a white".

clink · « **Reply #1894 on:** August 14, 2020, 06:19:24 PM »

Regardless of who is wong or white, BAP LIVES MATTER!

mynameismud · « **Reply #1895 on:** August 15, 2020, 07:43:50 AM »

Quote from: BAP on August 14, 2020, 08:03:48 AM

" You wing the wong number."

this made me laugh

the 2nd one is good as well

mynameismud · « **Reply #1896 on:** August 15, 2020, 07:46:35 AM »

I got a new full face helmet with a magnetic buckle. Looking at neck braces

Quote from: JC w KC redux on August 13, 2020, 05:36:15 PM

Had to share something else especially since Mud was talking about buying a new helmet.

Seems a lot of the new helmets are coming with a magnetic buckle.

I bought the new Petzl helmet a while back (on sale) and stuck it on the shelf.
I finally took it out about a month ago.
I call it my styrofoam dome.
While I was leading a new route the other morning, I got up to the crux and just before I was getting ready to think about clipping the bolt, I felt my buckle come undone - whoopsie. I did absolutely nothing to cause it.
I fumbled to get it buckled and then proceeded over the crux with a puzzled feeling in my gut.
I'm gonna call Petzl.
Maybe I'll own that place

waldo · « **Reply #1897 on:** August 15, 2020, 04:03:38 PM »

Speaking of the Wong Way, I think I went the wrong way. After the good face, does it finish by traversing out that horizontal crack and then humping up and over?

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1898 on:** August 16, 2020, 05:14:06 AM »

Quote from: waldo on August 15, 2020, 04:03:38 PM

Speaking of the Wong Way, I think I went the wrong way. After the good face, does it finish by traversing out that horizontal crack and then humping up and over?

Once you get up the 1st pitch and scramble into the water chute - there are only two "easy" ways to get on top of 5th Sister.
One is the crack you mentioned for some gear and a few moves left and then up - and the other is the 5.6X route - but that is way around the other side. I seem to recall scrambling to the top of a little pedestal/mound to reach the crack (easy but exposed).

Here are my notes.

I used three cams in the crack for p2 – a #3 with a .75 just below it and equalized + a #2 up and left with a limiter knot in the sling to equalize in with the other two. It looked and felt solid enough to sustain a fall (basically built a gear anchor). The move is intimidating but way easier than it looks – exposed! I stepped through with my right foot with my hands in the crack which allowed me to stretch my left foot out onto the big holds and it was over. From there - easy but exposed and runout climbing goes up the face. Good holds with a few loose spots that can easily be avoided.

I thought the route was really fun and recommended it for a star. It is actually worth repeating.
I keep meaning to get back out there and inspect those bolts - I'll get to it one of these days.
Pretty sure they are all 5 piece RAWLs but at least one hanger didn't look great (according to my notes).
I still need to check out that Beyer route on 4th sister too but last time I checked - there was still an active hive right on it.

JC w KC redux · « **Reply #1899 on:** August 16, 2020, 05:15:51 AM »

109 yesterday on the gauge at 4:30 pm and still 76 this morning at 5:30 am

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Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition) (Read 685373 times)