Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Atomizer]

Really none of my business but...

It sounds like Condorks needs a mid anchor at the 100 foot mark and a second pitch. Is there a logical spot to end a second pitch? Or a third? It would be super cool to have another route on that side that tops out. 

It sounds like the Chaos Crag line (name?) needs to be extended to 100 feet, an anchor and another pitch.
 

John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

[Brad Young]

John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting. If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Definitely not a pile of turds; it's got a fair amount of good rock.

It sure doesn't appear that the good rock continues higher though.

[BAP]

We quested again yesterday.

Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!

[JC w KC redux]

John Bolte and I are considering the extra bolts idea. After the initial ascent our thoughts were of it being a pile of turds and not worth repeating. But maybe things are different now as it may have been accidentally ascended more than once... and maybe its cleaner now. No midway anchor please. This ain’t a sport climb. Bring two ropes.

Where you been dude? Lurking in the shadows?  

It must not be that bad if it got a star...although...  

I think people have started up it thinking it is Condor Condiment (at least one party that I know of recently).

I wouldn't even think of touching the route - I was just curious - nothing more.
I was going to delete my post but Gavin had already commented on it.

Regarding a possible continuation of the route; it would be nice if John Bolte and I can have dibs on that since we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting.

Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches.

If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Sorry - I won't be adding any bolts for you or anyone else. I have enough work to do.
Clever concept...although I don't fall for it any more  

[JC w KC redux]

Envious, I don't mind climb it over and over again, a well deserved 3 stars climb!

Don't worry - we'll go back 

[JC w KC redux]

we’ve intended to go back but have been thwarted by the assumption that it’s was still closed every winter due to nesting.

Hasn't been closed for quite a few years now.
I can count how many if you like - I save a document of the closures each year (imagine that).
I charge by the minute for record searches.

Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.

[Brad Young]

Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.

Feel free to call me at the office. We'll talk Pinnacles....

[briham89]

If we do put up more pitches, can we just run it out and then have some other folks fill in the gaps with extra bolts? That would surely make the first ascent much easier....

Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?

[JC w KC redux]

Text is hard to get feeling / context from.....so I'll just ask. Is that a joke?

If you have to ask...

Yes. He's as sarcastic and silly as the rest of us.

 

[Atomizer]

Gavin first left it open starting in 2017.
It hasn't made the sensitive list since then.
That search was free. I'm bored.

This just shows how uncommitted I am.

I'll post up later about the reason for my absence from Escuela Escalada de Pinnacles.

[Tuff Chik]

I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today.  First time for all three of them - weather was awesome.  Temps hit 74 by 2:30. 

[JC w KC redux]

I quested with Deb, Marnye and Nick on Old Original today.  First time for all three of them - weather was awesome.  Temps hit 74 by 2:30. 

No mention of the tree booty?

What was the combined height of your team?

[Tuff Chik]

No mention of the tree booty?

What was the combined height of your team?

Pulled some cord and rap rings off the tree.

Combined height - each of us is five feet nothing - you do the math.  

[JC w KC redux]

I was on the west side too.
I got started on rebolting Numbskulls Needle.
I really didn't want to work on it but after replacing the first bolt I realized how desperately it needs to be done.
The bolts are all 5/16's studs sticking way out - with super flimsy sleeves (hardware store junk).
I'll finish it next time out and post some pictures.

I went to Oh Henry! and replaced the 3 SMC hangers and checked the other bolts - top to bottom.
I had to do some significant surfacing on two of the bolts, since the footprint on the Fixe replacement hangers is so much bigger. All the other bolts have Metolius hangers and were tight.

I'll update the Master List and give a full report when I finish Numbskull.

I did some other work too. It was a full day.

Hollered at the Machete crew from Oh Henry!
I couldn't believe I could hear Kat whoo hooing at me across all that distance    

[JC w KC redux]

Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.

[JC w KC redux]

Quested with Gavin today.
We took turns leading Fifi Wears Lycra and then I led Five Aces.
Nice weather - mostly cloudy with warm temps and just a light breeze.

I forgot to mention that Gavin was kind enough to belay me while I led Five Aces.
Then he went waaaay above and beyond by carrying our packs up (he put mine in his and then followed the climb!).
I was cracking up - that really blew me away  

[JC w KC redux]

I got shut down on Spaceman Spiff yesterday morning. BAP recorded a funny 2 second video of me quaking and grimacing while clinging to holds, trying to unlock the cruxy start. It would make a good meme. I think I figured it out but a little too late - my left hand grip strength was gone. BAP tried it too but could not reach the critical 2nd bolt (long reach to clip) to commit to the crux. I'll have to go back and try it again and just go for it without hanging around more than a few seconds.

We diverted to Swallow Crack, seeking something easier and also since BAP had never led/climbed it. I led it again too. The climb was my first mostly-gear lead at Pinns. I was shocked by the amount of polished looking holds on the face. I did not remember that but I led it almost 8 years ago. We had fun climbing it and I got a really good picture of Kat following Jennifer.

Things were getting a bit crowded by the time we finished, so we headed out and I led Taking the Wind Out of Your Mudsails. The money piece is a #1 camalot (I also had a red alien a few inches lower) and the sling knob is solid (as far as you know). I no longer have to continue walking past that route on the trail and wondering.  

We went to check out some other routes but everything I wanted to do was occupied. I was a bit perturbed by a large group at Teaching Rock that had a Tyrolean setup between the Sinbad anchors and two lead bolts on Ali Baba. I didn't waste my breath saying anything directly to them and won't be surprised if people report loose bolts on those routes.

Another fun day with nice conditions. Is it really February?  
 

[JC w KC redux]

Been getting shut down a lot lately but it's been a good learning experience (thanks Gavin, Kat, Jennifer).
Went out with Kat and Aaron yesterday to try and get my confidence back.
Still working a bit on the new crag but nearly finished and almost ready to release the details.
A shared anchor for two new routes provided some nice photo ops yesterday (thanks Kat).

A little easy chimney movement along the start of Chubby Rain





Sweet gear stance between bolts 3 and 4 on Chubby Rain





High step after committing to the left side above the gear protected stemming section on Chubby Rain

[mynameismud]

Nice pics.

Getting shutdown is a good thing.

[JC w KC redux]

Nice pics.

Getting shutdown is a good thing.

Thanks Mud.
I have climbed Chubby Rain 5.8*** quite a few times now and it just doesn't get old.
Fake Purse Ninjas 5.7* has a little loose but mostly avoidable stuff at the start - then it gets better quickly.
Hindsight 5.7** is only about half as long as the other routes but it is a reachy, fun, jug fest on really nice rock.

We had a no climbing shoes necessary day yesterday (Deb's phrase - not mine) climbing new routes in the High Peaks.
It was a real snot fest among the three of us (me, Kat and Deb) and no one was feeling particularly up to par.
Got some cool shots of a couple youngsters climbing Condor Condiment - after we pointed them toward the approach.
Had a fun day with lots of condor sightings and perfect weather.
Looks like we are in for about a week of lousy weather - so not sure when the quest will continue...