Went to the east side yesterday and took our friend Deb up Portent.
I never will get used to that solid rock or actually trusting holds.
Deb said she didn't like how smooth so many of the holds are.
That rock is no doubt etched from the acid in skin oils and all the traffic over the years.
I told her to watch out for slippery slopers in particular. Deb obviously prefers crud.
I have to say I was a bit irritated to find single screwlinks on all 4 mid-station anchor bolts. The stainless replacement bolts Bruce and I installed at both stations (one at each) a few years ago had loose hangers. This was no doubt a result of people lowering, toproping or rappelling off those anchors. I don't think people understand the twisting, inward forces they generate when doing this and without my bolt kit, I had no way to get the hangers tight again. It also leaves less room in the hangers for people to clip in or forces them to clip sub standard materials (the links rather than the hangers).
Oh well...I still enjoyed the climb.
We went out to Tiburcio's to do Bandit Chimney and I was really disappointed to find the opening completely blocked by PO. This route has been declared Cook-proof until further notice. I was all ready to practice my chimney skills too
I climbed Side Saddle. It has a cool pin (did I say that?). It appeared to be a Lost Arrow type design but with a rectangular eye (I've never seen one of those before). The slanting horizontal crack allows a lot of good gear placements (cams to 1 1/2 inches and tricams). You can sew it up for yourself and your follower.
Deb TRed Cross Your Heart after we rapped from that anchor. Brad - is that the route that knob on your office shelf came from?
