Here is a description for Up in Smoke.
I think it is a fun addition and as a bonus, it shares the anchor on the original Roper route.
Folks can TR or rehearse the virtually unprotected Roper route (5.7R imo not 5.5 as listed in the guidebook).
That route has 1 bolt 35 feet up that is almost useless.
As I said in my previous post, if you make it that far leading the Roper route (a free solo really), the bolt doesn't really matter since the climbing above it is so easy.
In a way I understand why the FA party decided to place the bolt there (of course you could also consider the name of the pinnacle
).
Any previous stance would have been more strenuous stemming that's pretty much just counter pressure.
There are very few sizable holds and some of the rock is not very good.
I think folks will be grateful to clip the nice stainless replacement lead bolt on the 5.7R on their way to the anchor.
Both climbs can be done with a half rope (30 meter) but they ain't no gym climbs
Up in Smoke 5.3*
This fun route takes the line of least resistance up Pot Pinnacle.
It is well protected, exposed (the first pitch), on good to excellent rock and has an adventurous feel.
It is best to climb it in two short pitches to negate rope drag. Otherwise, it wraps around the formation and turns several drastic corners.
Pitch 1: Follow the up and left slanting crack just left of the start of the Roper route. Climb the face to a stance and a good 5-inch piece, which protects moves up and onto the apron. Climb along the apron (exposed) to a point where the crack pinches out and place another piece (creative pink Tricam) The crack is clogged by an interesting-looking infilling of rock matrix that creates a slightly bulging section. Move around/past the bulge and onto an easy ramp. More protection can be placed in the crack (good 3 1/2 and 2 inch piece). Continue along the ramp to a nice meadow and belay using body position near a mossy face/right-facing corner 60 feet from the start.
Pitch 2: Climb the left side of the mossy face (25 feet), staying next to the right-facing corner with a bottomless crack. A good 5 inch piece can be placed near the top of the crack to protect moves to the summit. Move up to a scoop/ledge just below the summit and use slings on features along the summit lip to redirect the rope (protects the follower and the easy traverse to the anchor). Move 10 feet right and a little down to the anchor (shared with the Roper route). Pitch 2 is 35 feet. Rappel 50 feet back to the start. Gear from 2 to 5 inches and a pink Tricam.
FA Party: John Cook, Craig Collins FA Date: 11-6-19
