Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

Just about got my arse handed to me on Flames Face today.
I thought I was going to fall off two or three times and the falls would not have been pretty.
Sustained, pumpy, crimpy and not well protected through the hard parts. Multiple cushy stances in the runouts with no bolts.

It's been a while since I rebolted it and I figured today was the day.
I can see why that person Zay observed took that huge whipper.
You could take a 50 to 60 foot fall (maybe more) getting to the anchor from the last bolt.

I was also able to go over and confirm that the upper mid-anchor on Lichen to Lead was replaced at some unknown date.
Carbon 5 pc with Fixe hangers (Mucci's work maybe?). With the bolts I replaced recently, that route is in fine shape from bottom to top now.

I also discovered that it is more fun to climb into the humongous sling knobs on the last part of that climb from the new route I put up on Mother's Day - starting from the Where the Sun Don't Shine anchor.  

[NOAL]

Sounds like fun.

[Brad Young]

Sounds like fun.

Yeah, especially the "just about" part.

[JC w KC redux]

Sounds like fun.

In a sick, masochistic sort of way. Good route to rec to someone you don't like  

Yeah, especially the "just about" part.

If I hadn't been able to find some stances to rest after making the dicier moves, I would have been off for sure.
Forearms were flamed out.
Bolting pattern is very inconsistent - goes from crazy to chicken fries.
I didn't replace bolt 3 when I rebolted, since it looked off route and unnecessary (really close height-wise to 4).
I decided to wait and see how it was on lead.
I was so focused on getting to bolt 4 before I completely flamed out that I didn't even see the old bolt (it's that far off the natural line). It is too far left (looks off route on the topo), like whoever had the bolt bag tried to go that way and then changed their mind (the rock out that way looked awful when I was rebolting). Bolts 4 and 5 are also really close together. Bolt 6 resumes the wide spacing and then the runout to the anchor.  

[NOAL]

In a sick, masochistic sort of way. 

AKA type II fun.

[JC w KC redux]

AKA type II fun.

Is there level III fun?
Even looking back months from now or even years I seriously doubt I will remember this one as fun.
Just another - "glad I don't ever have to do that again" - a shame really - but so typical of so many Pinnacles routes
On the plus side - the FA party never did another route. 

[clink]

What date was the FA done?

[JC w KC redux]

What date was the FA done?

February 1985
Robin Riner and Chuck Coon

[F4?]

What date was the FA done?

And which were the FA party wearing Boxers or Breifs?

Munge, I mean a friend needs to know.

Also what position was the moon in? Waxing or Waning?

[NOAL]

Is there level III fun?

I am only familiar with type 1 and 2

Type one is:  We went car camping in Yosemite.  We cooked some burgers, drank some beers, looked at some rocks while eating ice cream, rode that tourist green trailer thingy and were back at work totally rested on Monday.  Boy was that fun!


Type two is: Remember that time we backpacked 125 miles in five days in a record snow year? Remember on the 4th day when my feet were totally macerated and my toenails fell off.  It hurt to walk for weeks!  Man that was so much fun! I can't wait to do it again!

[F4?]

Type III, do we even want to know?

[mynameismud]

Type II are routes are my favorites.  We need more of this type.  Who remembers the perfect route.  Yeah, it might be absolutely fantastic, but what was there to be remembered. 

Type II routes forever.

So I am starting a new line up here.  It shares the start with another route.  I humped all my crap up there, 50 feet away from the start a dozen cantaloupe sized rocks come bounding down the corner from up high so I run off to the left to avoid the excitement.  Should I start a new line out left under an over hang so I can play it safe?  The new line would have a cool start and some good climbing.  I guess next time I will pack the helmet.

[mynameismud]

Ticks up here...  AAACCcckkkkk

[NOAL]

Here too.  After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner.  Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks.  Must've fell out my hair or something.  They got minced.

[JC w KC redux]

Here too.  After I came home from running @ laurelwood last night I was chopping some vegetables for dinner.  Looked down at chopping board and noticed two ticks.  Must've fell out my hair or something.  They got minced.

I prefer my ticks on the half shell.

[Brad Young]

Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else 

[JC w KC redux]

Yeah, I kinda like mine in someone else 

So...Cannibal style. I think that is on the secret menu at In-N-Out.

[JC w KC redux]

I see everybody took a break around 4:20...dude...

[clink]

 Speaking of tics, Noal is a lunatic, Mud is a fellow escapee, and speaking of type ll they are two of a type that may be diagnosable.

[Brad Young]

^^^

Pot/kettle in all described categories.