Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

that was a sketchy downclimb

I can imagine but would rather not.
One false move and you would likely be dead after falling another 50+ feet depending on which side of the slot you tumbled out of after the initial fall.

[NOAL]

Baling for bailing.

[clink]

Hay!

[JC w KC redux]

Baling for bailing.

Nice but nope.
The wire was for a film canister that Brad said he removed 20+ years ago.
The looped end held the canister.
Unfortunately the notes inside disintegrated.
Here is what was on the other summit (West Tooth). There were two stub pencils inside but no notes.

[JC w KC redux]

Brad said he has photos of the disintegrated notes. Maybe he can post those.
In the interim I went back to last year on this thread and grabbed the images he posted of his field notes.
Fun to read again - thanks again for digging those up dude.

[climberdude]

That goldline (if it is even that) tat for rappelling looks bomber!

[Brad Young]

No photos; my memory was wrong. I transcribed the summit entries as the paper disintegrated, and what you posted are my entire notes. (Thanks for doing that, I was just trying to find them myself.)

EDIT:

I would have had a film camera then and wouldn't have wasted the film for shots of old summit entries.

[Brad Young]

that was a sketchy downclimb

Yes. We were younger then though....

[Brad Young]

So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?

Probably best that I carry paper into the field now and make notes right then.

[JC w KC redux]

Agent Orange at work replacing the old West Tooth hardware.
I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt.





The replacement anchor 





Looking through the arch on West Tooth at Knuckle Ridge, Goat Rock, Scout and the High Peaks 





New Game. Toss rocks at the summit register rocks on Bicuspid to restore them to their previous look. 

Before






After







Or you could climb up there and change them again. This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles 

[Brad Young]

So my memory and my notes were that there was no hanger on that carriage bolt on top of Middle Tooth!? I made my notes within days of being up there and I'd forgotten the hanger already? Maybe I'd just disregarded it since it was so flimsy?

Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).

[Brad Young]

I was able to rework and use the original holes for the old single anchor bolt and the lead bolt.

Unbelievable how good you've become at such re-use. Excellent!!

[Brad Young]

^^^

Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?

[JC w KC redux]

Per my conversation with J.C., I suspect that when I was up there the one carriage bolt had some sort of tat on it. I don't know how else I could have missed that flimsy little hanger. With some old webbing in the way, I would have noticed the bolt, but the hanger would have been covered up/hidden (and since I free soloed up there, I wouldn't have needed to dig around to thread the rope).

Maybe you were mesmerized by The Liver of Pinnacles 

[JC w KC redux]

^^^

Aren't your before/after shots of the rocks stacked on top of Bicuspid reversed?

Not if you're playing the new game correctly 

[Brad Young]

Not if you're playing the new game correctly 

Alright, I get it: before means "now," and "after" means after someone has "won" the game.

I'm leaving now to get in on the action early....

[JC w KC redux]

Because saying it once just was not enough.

This is the most unlikely and wildest 5.4 I know of at Pinnacles 

[Brad Young]

I think that the most fun I had up there was belaying John's lead of Bicuspid. He quickly climbed the loose, unprotected, up and left part and then stood up on the pillar. Watching his body language (and a little bit of real language), during a 30 second span he went from:

- "No way, no way, no way this is 5.4," to

-  "Hey, there's a huge right handhold," to

-  "Oh, a great left handhold," and

-  "There's a right foot smear," to

-   First move, second move, one more move, and up.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^^^^
Nice play by play.

It was definitely the highlight of my day and not something I will forget.

I definitely will not forget that big hand hold cracking and almost coming off on the lower part - talk about a pre-pucker.

Once I found the hand holds and saw the left foot hold I knew I was gone - or I was a goner.

I appreciate looking at the picture much more now 

Think beano can photoshop me in there? 

[clink]

Glad you two enjoyed wild 5.4 play without me.