Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[mynameismud]

Nice and congratulations!

[Brad Young]

So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?

[JC w KC redux]

Nice and congratulations!

Thanks Mud. Sounds like you guys have some great routes and I better start climbing harder 

So was the twinsies clothing done on purpose (says the guy who's happened to grab an orange T shirt to wear that day)?

I actually had my green Pinns t-shirt on under the sweatshirt so I am glad you were representing. I am surprised the crud didn't spit me off at the crux I was chuckling at our dark light opposite choices in pants and knee pads.

I told clink on the way out that I couldn't get used to his new pack (actually resurrected) and that next time I could bring him one of our extra jet packs with a bunch of little black pouches and a visor if he would prefer that. 

[JC w KC redux]

If you liked my rebolting TR, here's a few more pictures of Nebulous Knob.
It's a bit of a chore to get to, mainly because the slope is steep, off camber and a huge tree fell on the old approach path just a few yards from where it leaves the Condor Gulch Trail. If you move up the main trail a bit further (maybe 50 feet), the slope down is relatively clear. Aim for a huge boulder in the stream drainage and watch for Poison Oak. Cross a log jam and then head up mossy slabs that lead to a fairly well trodden access path. The path follows high above the drainage about midway along the slope with some ups and downs around obstacles. It eventually leads you to some waterfall steps in the drainage before heading a bit further along the slope (a little past the Knob) and then up steep hummocks and loose, loamy scree slopes.
The Knob is a good example of one of those formations that looks totally different from various angles (don't they all?).
Once you have this view, continue past it before you head up (if you want a brush free approach). It's pretty obvious.





It looks like you can scramble up from below but there was some PO so we headed up high and then traversed in. There is some scrambling toward the end. The route starts by surmounting several large boulders and then standing atop the last one and leaning over to the formation. It isn't Maniac's Delight but the drop is a heck of a lot farther and the exposure is pretty hairy. Making the move off that boulder on to the formation is damn scary on lead and the rock quality is poor with few holds. It is what Brad and I like to call a huck up move and hard for me to rate. Blow it and you are likely to need a rescue. Felt like classic Pinnacles climbing to me.

Here is Kat working up the nerve to commit to that initial move. It is hard to do even as a follower.





Happy at the summit. Don't be fooled by how easy this looks. It is really exposed and I think you'll be happy to clip that nice new replacement lead bolt before you head up the final section. The lead bolt is one of those keep you from going all the way bolts and doesn't do a lot in terms of protecting the difficulties above.





We had quite the condor show while I was working on the rebolt. They came in close once or twice.

[JC w KC redux]

Geez, talk about a quest for mud. Toward the end of the day I started feeling like Ron Pearlman's caveman character stranded in the tree by lions the morning after. If you haven't seen Quest for Fire you won't get it and you've also denied yourself a great treat of a movie IMHO.
Jason and I had a bit of misadventure yesterday at The OutBack. Don't get me wrong, we had fun but we spent a large part of the day trying to navigate around the area avoiding PO while we searched for the routes. This was completely my fault. I had been there before and had the initial map, so I didn't see any need to take Brad's updated approach directions. Oops.

We eventually spied an anchor on one of the Central Outback summits and found the cheese at the end of the maze.
We climbed both of those summits and I have to compliment and thank Brad for putting rappel anchors on both of them. We both liked the West summit better and there is a cool corridor with a big tree just below the start that looked like a good place for a nap or a shady picnic. I was about ready to abort finding the Buttress climbs until Jason suggested checking one more thing uphill. It turned out to be a really fun way to end the day. We only had time to climb Off With Her Hands but if that one doesn't get a star, Lonesome Me must be worth two.   We both though OWHH was star worthy and really fun. It is super steep for the grade, very inviting, well protected and the amount of usable holds is shocking. The anchor was situated nicely to lower off and allow us to take turns leading the route before scrambling back up to the summit to retrieve my alpine draws.

Here is a photo map from Google Earth and a photo topo of Off With Her Hands. The 4th bolt can't be seen until you are very near it. Looking forward to a return trip to climb the other routes and work on some more.    

The South arrow is slightly skewed but it's only off by a couple degrees. Note other location arrows.





photo topo for the very inviting route Off With Her Hands

[clink]

 Nice JC. The PO is bad out there in places.

[JC w KC redux]

Here are some shots from Monday. I went out with Brad, Russ and Dave to work on some new stuff.
Our first objective was a pinnacle Brad set his sights on up near Clinker.
The approach had some 3rd class and some PO to dodge. The PO in that area is already in full leaf. YUCK!
The climb was super mossy and still a bit damp. A slung tree branch was the only psychological pro.
The branch had way too much sway in it to inspire me to want to trust it.
The route starts in a large saddle that will catch the rope and the leader, providing they fall off to the left.
Brad took the lead and started working on an anchor. I led up and started working on a second anchor bolt.
Dave led last and finished the hole Brad started. Once I had my bolt done I belayed Russ up to join us.
The rappel went free for about the last 20 feet, depositing us in a PO free area. Thanks to Brad for supplying one of the bolts plus the chain and screwlinks.

After The Barge we went and started 2 more new routes. Brad fixed a pin and got a bolt started. Russ and Dave took turns drilling the bolt hole. It was a tough chore using an aider for one foot to gain a stemming stance. Russ and Dave are just getting started with drilling and they did a great job of sticking with it and getting the bolt placed. I got three bolts in the line I started. Looks like both lines will be long and fun when they are finished. Can't wait to get back up there 

Brad at the summit (taken from more than halfway up the route, looking at the final furry slab)





Dave and JC drilling the anchor bolts





Russ nearing the summit





Brad raps first from the nicely equalized anchor





The Barge from downhill at the start of the approach

[JC w KC redux]

Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.

I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.

[JC w KC redux]

Anticipating some fun with Brad and Jim in the New World tomorrow.

I don't like the look of the forecast after tomorrow. More rain on the way.

We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?

[JC w KC redux]

We had a blast getting on top of 2 new summits Thursday and Friday. Jim and Brad took off yesterday afternoon after we finished Quadruple Decker.
The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.
Should we write a book?

Here's a teaser shot from Google Earth. I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.
The others are already posted.

[Brad Young]

...I'm sure Brad is working on the descriptions for Quadruple Decker and Goliath.

No, as per the email I just sent you: Brad is spending a joyous morning fighting with moronic computer systems while trying to get his new MacBook Pro up and running. Now taking a break to eat, unload the car, check in here... and give Vicki, Jim, and Tricia's ears a break.

PPPPHHHHUUUUUUCCKK!

[Brad Young]

^^^^^

All of my notes for new routes, edits and corrections are ready to go for Monday (Ellen will type them up and I will go through multiple sets of edits and then post up).

[Tuff Chik]

^^^^^

Ellen will type them up

then post up.

Where you from, Bitch?

[Brad Young]

Where you from, Bitch?

You will be paying for this....

[JC w KC redux]

JC on the Lido Deck of Quadruple Decker looking for cruise director Julie or maybe Isaac to get a drink!  

[clink]

 
 

The second pitch had a bunch of cool pockets that kept the grade lower than expected. There are now 7 summits done.

 Surprising and cool it went at 5.8.  

[Brad Young]

Second lead of Goliath:




Smiling pretty much ear to ear:




Finishing the class five, almost to the summit:




Would you trust a summit anchor simul-drilled by these two (hint: you probably already have):







On the summit of Goliath:




Leading the first pitch of Quadruple Decker:








Rappeling off the summit:

[clink]

 Sweet! Jim made his climbing pic look harder than JC's.   Also note that Jim is hammering with the wrong hand again. Who took the summit shot on Goliath?

[F4?]

I thought that Jim guy was too busy climbing on the east side .

His bolt spacing looks adaquate.

[JC w KC redux]

Who took the summit shot on Goliath?

Primrose