clink, KC and I finished a new route in the NE Frontier on Saturday while Brad and Jennifer were finishing another route.
clink took the lead and drilled two bolts from awkward stances to set me up for the crux.
It was funny, because looking at that section from below, it looks like it is just going to be fun. Then you get up there and realize how awkward and strange the movement is. I have to compliment clink on his choice of placements and how well protected the climb is through the difficulties. Mud and I were discussing clink's ability to tough out weird stances and get bolts in quickly. His abilities are truly admirable.
After he set the trap, clink came down and suggested I go up and check it out, clean some (by hanging if necessary) and then see if I could get above there and get another bolt in. I got up to a good stemming stance and started reaching around. Spoiler Alert - To my surprise, there was a deep and very secure mono digit that you cannot see. It doesn't help you make progress, but it allows you to feel around and get set for the moves. What I find even more amusing is the fact that there is also a mono digit on Soap Box Slab (the next route over).
I brushed off a foothold on the face with my fingers and decided to try moving up. I thought I heard clink say - There he goes.
Once above the crux, I placed a bolt from a slabby stance and looked ahead. We decided the most logical path would be to join Soap Box Slab at its next bolt. clink lowered me off and I led clean back up to the bolt I had just placed. From there, a mossy and slightly loose traverse up and right gets you to the stance and 4th bolt on Soap Box Slab.
Trifecta 5.8 Trifecta starts 20 feet left (downhill) of Soapbox Slab and climbs past 5 bolts, joining Soapbox Slab at its 4th bolt, 60 feet from the start. Finish on Soapbox Slab (2 more bolts).
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-24-18
clink drilling the crux bolt utilizing his strength, stamina and Pretzel Logic


Sussing out the crux section