Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Brad Young]

Thanks for digging that stuff out and taking the time to post it. Really cool to see the history.  

I also came across a stack of printed out emails from Jack Holmgren (about 1/4 inch thick!). I only glanced at them though since they weren't what I was looking for.

I skimmed over the one where I essentially beg him to just use the name David Rubine had assigned to one of his routes in the 1995 book (Rubine called it "Prelude"). Jack's email basically says "nope." The name was and is "You Climb That Hill No Matter How Steep But You Still Ain't Goin' Nowhere."

[Brad Young]

...I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage.

A rare display. Thank you for living to see another day....

[mynameismud]

still wrestle with it, but yeah, probably best I did not go for it.

[clink]

 To the few of you who pursue these particular routes, I reserve my highest admiration accompanied with a large helping of skepticism as to your sanity.

[JC w KC redux]

I seem to remember one pinnacle was close to the plateau rock slab area.  I really wanted to try and jump across but just could not quite get up the courage. 

I looked at that too. Stick It!

[waldo]

Hemp Noose.  Can you post up a photo of that thing?  It's super cool.

Bomber

And J.C., look at the fourth page where I crossed out "loose pillar" and wrote "shoulder." Why did I do that (who the hell knows)? Maybe I should have left it as it was?

I guess you didn't want to discourage anybody.

[JC w KC redux]

almost all those routes were kind of scary.  I towed a rope but did not really have a chance to use it much.  good views though

For those in the audience that are Bicurious - this is the loose, outward-tilting pillar on Bicuspid.
It looks pretty good from this angle 

[clink]

 I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .

[JC w KC redux]

I hope you aren't planning on any leaps next weekend .

Hiking, climbing, drilling, no leaping 

[JC w KC redux]

KC and I headed out today to make the rounds.
We intended to climb False Flatiron, Boom! and Party Crasher.

We hiked up to False Flatiron via the Little Flatiron/Toadstool approach.


I climbed the new class 4 route first, slinging a few knobs along the way.





My wandering eye was checking out the slab to the left of the class 4 route and in particular a prominent hole about 2/3 of the way up. I thought about just climbing to that hole and putting in a bolt, but decided in the end to do a 2 bolt route.
EDIT - the first bolt was removed later (2-9-18) along with the only bolt on Pity the Fool (both routes are now R). We decided the bolts were just too close to the original 4th Class route.


Drilling the first bolt (removed on 2-9-18). Check out that hole up and left for the next stance.





The climb starts 3 feet left of the groove used for the class 4 route. Climb to a giant lodestone. A few moves get you into a prominent hole.


Working on the second bolt (now the first and only bolt).





Climb past the second bolt to the top, courtesy of some nice knobs and divots.

Here is KC at the second bolt, enjoying the coveted 2nd ascent and a salute to clink.



Falsetto Slab 5.2R*

[clink]

 Yosomighty and Clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portant, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.

 Caleb pulled Ali Baba onsight without pumping off or z-clipping at the crux. Sinbad was a first for him as well. Showed up late and left by 3:30. Very unMud&Noallike of us, and quite civilized. We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report   Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!

 

[Brad Young]

Falsetto Slab 5.2*

And there's my silly record, shattered again.  

It'll be a while too before I have a chance to catch it up. And no doubt meanwhile other nefarious spies and mudmasters will continue their good work....

[JC w KC redux]

Yosomighty and clink the wide angle ran up some classic beauties, Portent, Ordeal, Swallow and did the damp and mossy Piton Traverse route for the first time. Those pins are decaying.

We saw Beauty and the Orange Beast in the parking area and received the anticipated and now expected end of the day report  Nice bunch of climbers out at Bear Gulch!

Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots  

We talked to two lads on the way out and showed them the Regular Route on the Monolith. They were looking for something fun to finish their day. They had evidently been hanging with you guys earlier. They described you perfectly (with a little help from yours truly).

[clink]

And there's my silly record, shattered again. Grin  Roll Eyes

Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.

Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots   

 Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.

[JC w KC redux]

Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.

Yes, and a rack of fresh replacement pins.

It is our pleasure to buck any status quo. Maintaining the status quo would be like climbing at...well...you know where...

New pitons? That would be nice if you'd like to donate to the cause and place them professionally.

Roper also says you can protect Bicuspid with pitons. I don't see how.

[Brad Young]

Keeping "in status" is going to put some miles on you.

I can think of worse ways to spend my time....

[waldo]

Piton Traverse - what a cool climb. All you needed was knickers and hobnail boots  

I miss my knickers.

[JC w KC redux]

courtesy of waldo




 


It's a bit upthread at this point

Brad - I heard you popped in a bolt, made a few moves and Boom! you were done.  


One more of Pow!

[JC w KC redux]

for clink

[clink]

Thanks, the color needs photo shop though.