Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[mungeclimber]

Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?

No specifics required, just wondering out loud.

Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.

[Brad Young]

Is this near a climb that Brad, Mud and I did on the high peaks trail from Juniper side?

No specifics required, just wondering out loud.

Looks intriguing, but tales of loose rock? I'm going back to Twinkle Toes for awhile.

No, no-where near Operation Pinnacles Freedom. We haven't redpointed it yet, so no description here (and you weren't asking me for one). Call me or email if you want to know right where it is.

And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.

[Brad Young]

Yes...you stayed calm in both instances. Not me. I get tourette's when I am on lead.

That is so wrong and I'm still laughing.

[Brad Young]

[JC w KC redux]

He looks like he's levitating at that stance - what a weird aspect compared to what I could see from my belay position - brings to mind the baby butt wipes from the other thread 

[JC w KC redux]

And the amount of loose rock is about normal for a new Pinns route. It's got a lot of good rock that is staying put, it's steep for the grade, it's a longer route (end point will be at about 85 feet?), the finish is even steeper (and exposed), and it's in a very, very scenic spot. Although it isn't done yet, I'm thinking at least one star, maybe two.

Sorry but we'll have to agree to disagree on this one.
Of all the new routes I've been in on in the last couple years this rates at the bottom of the list for rock quality.
It is surprisingly bad for being in a water streak.
I have never seen such a poor degree/lack of cementation in some of the rock along the sides - which luckily isn't necessary for upward progress. The band of "good" rock is extremely narrow and even a good percentage of that is bad or suspect. In some spots it is like a pile of sand with cobblestones sitting in it.

Some of the movement is interesting and the location is nice but I would say no stars. No way.

[clink]

 
 After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand (he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool (really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.

 I thought about the whole experience  today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.


     "Juke Box Hero"

Standing in the rain, with his head hung low
Couldn't get a ticket, it was a sold out show
Heard the roar of the crowd, he could picture the scene
Put his ear to the wall, then like a distant scream

He heard one guitar, just blew him away
He saw stars in his eyes, and the very next day
Bought a beat up six string in a secondhand store
Didn't know how to play it, but he knew for sure

That one guitar, felt good in his hands
Didn't take long, to understand
Just one guitar, slung way down low
Was one way ticket, only one way to go

So he started rockin'
Ain't never gonna stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
Someday he's gonna make it to the top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero
He took one guitar, juke box hero, stars in his eyes
Juke box hero, he'll come alive tonight

In a town without a name, in a heavy downpour
Thought he passed his own shadow, by the backstage door
Like a trip through the past, to that day in the rain
And that one guitar made his whole life change

Now he needs to keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Yeah, juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
With that one guitar he'll come alive
Come alive tonight

Yeah, he's gotta keep rockin'
He just can't stop
Gotta keep on rockin'
That boy has got to stay on top

And be a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
He's a juke box hero, got stars in his eyes
Just one guitar, put stars in his eyes
He's just a juke box hero, aah aah aah
Juke box hero, juke box hero, he's got stars in his eyes
Stars in his eyes


 Get Waldo's opinion.

[NOAL]

Replace the star system with the little guy from the chronicle movie reviews.  He could be asleep or clapping ecstatically . Just add some rock projectiles raining down on him when needed.

[JC w KC redux]

 After questioning Brad about the "rock quality" factor on star routes at Pinns I am beginning to understand(he is crazy) that rock quality is not necessarily a must for a star. The "5.7" section on the first part of your route was weird with side pulls and pinches. I felt as insecure on it as on early ascents of Balconies chutes. The climbing is moderate, gets steep and puzzling. Exiting the chute was (like) cool(really). It is fairly well protected but because it ungulates you could bust an ankle on the crux.

 I thought about the whole experience  today, the hike in and out, listening to you two's banter, seeing Climberdude rope soloing across the little valley, going down by myself to check out the pretty or precious stones cliff, and the close encounter with the curious condor.

Thanks for the input clink but you never said if you think it is star worthy.
I like your use of ungulates - you old goat.
I think rock quality should definitely be a factor.
I look at that plus interesting movement/challenge/excitement, exposure, fun factor. Sometimes things like uniqueness of a formation or a great summit come into play but those should be secondary imo.

An argument could be made for Barber Pole based on length, challenging moves, exposure and definitely a cool summit. If Hoof It gets a star then so does Barber Pole imo. No way either of them should get more than one and based on overall rock quality, Barber Pole is a better candidate. Tough call. Gut reaction is neither gets a star.

I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer (since Hoof It was my name anyway)

[JC w KC redux]

I am requisitioning for a name change - On a Hoof and a Prayer

That's How the Feta Crumbles

[JC w KC redux]

Quested for Mud with Brad and Jon today to celebrate Brad's birthday. We finished the climb and Brad and I both led it. I got the coveted 2nd ascent without having to snake anyone!
clink got another new line started before we had to beat the darkness. We all had a fun day.



Brad heads up for the redpoint of Hoof It 5.8*




Brad finding a good spot for the anchor





clink gets the new line going - we'll call it Shades of David Spade for now





and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck

[mungeclimber]

Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!

[clink]

Nice line for a nice bday day!

 Yes it was Munge, warm and dry. Last Sunday the chute was dripping and Brad managed to make it up a few bolts before bailing. At this point I suggested the name of Wet Thwarts, but he wouldn't deviate from Hoof It. Looking at the forecast Brad decided to do a one day blast. Meet in Prunedale at 11am, hike to base of climb by 1ish, back to Prunedale by 6pm. I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.

 On the hike in JC and Brad pointed out a cherry section of rock they had found. We had enough time to taste test it on the way out. So good! Looks like Gavin territory to the right.

 

[JC w KC redux]

Nice line for a nice bday day! HBD!

It was. The rock had almost totally dried out - just a hint of damp in a couple spots. The line ended up climbing pretty nice. It is committing to get to the first bolt - 5.6 or 7 (somewhat height dependent). I think we all agreed that it has two distinct cruxes - getting past the first bolt and then again between 5 and 6. I thought they were about equal in difficulty(5.7) but Brad and clink both thought the upper one was 5.8. It has some pretty interesting movement and nice stemming in a couple spots. The moves to bolt 8 provide exposure and some cool holds - followed by a fun path to the last bolt and then the anchor. The anchor is in a nice spot and equalized perfectly. 90 feet of climbing. The overall rock quality could be better but there are enough good holds between the questionable stuff. It keeps your attention from bottom to top with some nice rests.


Anchor on Hoof It

His anchor was artistic.

[JC w KC redux]

clink's post makes me want to delete mine  

[Gavin]

Nice work, gang. I think I remember looking at this area with Brad earlier in the year, especially where clink is drilling in the photo. I'll have to revisit with folks in 2017!

[Brad Young]

...I don't know if you have noticed but some days Brad climbs with finesse and others like a gorilla. His anchor was artistic.

What can I say? Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't.

It has a lot to do with whether I've warmed up and how cold it is outside.

Yesterday? Yesterday I didn't feel a day over 56  

[Brad Young]

...and this is for Brad from the cultural attache - Eyegor choosing the brain of Hans Delbruck

It is unbelievable to me that you would remember this. And very impressive.

After the J.C.s got into my car to finish the drive I listened to a last bit of a "Hardcore History" podcast by Dan Carlin (the podcast was "Wrath of the Khans," about Ghengis Khan - highly, highly recommended!).

During the five minutes I listened, the podcast referred to an opinion about the mongols by Hans Delbruck, a respected historian from the 1800s (the podcast called him "brilliant" I think).

J.C. heard the reference and then immediately said something like: "Hans Delbruck. Isn't his the brain that Eyegor doesn't take in the movie Young Frankenstein?" Totally out of the blue.

His reference above shows that yes, that was the brain Eyegor did not take. Wow, cultural attache indeed! Cultural attache extrordinaire is more like it.

[clink]

While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense.

[JC w KC redux]

While the analytical portion of JC's brain is almost average, the storage capacity behind that forehead must be immense.

I guess my analytical skills parallel my footwork.

Oh and by the way...DIE