Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Brad Young]

I finished The Hedonist today. 4 bolts in 95 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. I'll add rappel chains next time out. There is a 4th class route from the anchor to the summit of Goat - Hoof It! No bolts.. Just kick it old school.

Same one you had two bolts in on October 15 ("across the slot")?

[clink]

Old Goat Hoofs It.

[JC w KC redux]

Old Goat Hoofs It.

That's even better clink. Can I use it?

I wanted to get a first bolt in the water streak but ran out of time.
Let's go Saturday!

[scotticusmaximus]

PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again!  I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday.  Anyone going to be around the park those days?  JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud?  It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!

[JC w KC redux]

PCAD has gotten me stoked on Pinnacles again!  I'm hoping maybe we can get out on Sunday or Monday.  Anyone going to be around the park those days?  JC - maybe I could hit you up for a little beta for Crud and Mud?  It would be nice to get back out there and actually do some of the climbs this time!

With the rains it might stay too wet to get on those shady routes at C&M. You could do Imprint and then go to the east face routes. Full sun on all of those early. Bottoms Up gets sunny after that and it still has not seen a second ascent. That is providing it actually rains this time. I won't be able to check until late tonight when I get home. I can send you my mini guide then too. I'll be hitting something sunny on Saturday with Kat. Probably High Peaks via the west side.

[Brad Young]

Beanolar (Baby!!) making an early lead of The Barber Pole:

[Brad Young]

J.C on the first ascent of The Barber Pole:

[Brad Young]

And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:

[clink]

And we all get caught in odd poses now and then, right? What's Laura doing in this one:

 Admonishing JC for not using chalk like a proper climber?

[clink]

 Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a  5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.

 it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.

 We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.

[JC w KC redux]

Certain reminder of how spoiled I have become lately with good rock quality, helping JC finish up a  5.9+ bit of shit-f#ckery.

 it was Gruff and between JC immediately suggesting it be erased upon topping out and Caleb & Aaron mentioning something about The Anus of History as a name, we had to laugh and move on.

 We found an easy route up the pinnacle 90 feet south of Satyr, by traversing south through the cleft on the west side. A 3rd class scramble up a chute leads to a 4th class move to gain the summit.

Stop fauning over your new route! 

[Brad Young]

The who part is easy. But what the hell is he riding?

[JC w KC redux]

Dino Rodeo - easy walk out to a hairy straddle. (3rd class?) Bucking could ensue if the San Andreas or one of the local fault splays decides to cut loose while you're up there.

The drop away is farther than illustrated - Pinnacles version of the diving board  

Too bad the Cheese Wall was composed of Limburger and Blue Cheese crumbles.

Good place for a picnic.

[Brad Young]

...easy walk out...

Really? You almost cut your hand off on the broken brush; almost bled to death. Easy?

[JC w KC redux]

I thought Blood Bath Rodeo might be a bit extreme.

We should go back up, throw a rope over the nose and simul jug to the underside.
clink could do a hand stand above us! 

[JC w KC redux]

Here is a closeup of my awkward drill stance for bolt 4 on Barber Pole.
It was balancy and really weird - the only good rock within reach was way off to the side.
I could barely hold the drill holder and my hits were tricky and lacked leverage.
My knees were pressed into the wall with my hips spread out and my feet were at odd angles.
Combine that with a big chunk breaking off while I was trying to surface - which meant chiseling a new surface.
That slung knob probably would not have held a fall.

In other words - a really fun time!

[JC w KC redux]

Here is Brad enjoying his redpoint before we added a bolt to my 30 foot runout.
Another bold maneuver erased for all time.

[Brad Young]

It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.

[Brad Young]

And by the way, can you add a blown up photo of the pants I am wearing in that photo please? That was the fourth time they'd ever been worn. No holes, no rips, no errors   

[JC w KC redux]

It should be made clear though that "they" added that bolt at the request of the first ascentionists (me and J.C.). It wasn't some random act.

I knew that was coming - surprised you took the bait 

EDIT: I changed the they to we.

You and I got to lead it as a runout but because we are wise old men we decided not to leave it that way for future generations. Here is something for them - Kat is standing at the stance for what was the original 5th bolt (now the 6th).
I marked the location of the 4th bolt so the horde that flocks to lead this route can see the original distance between bolts.
Of course they could just skip bolt 5 (shown as added bolt)