Saving the best for last but no pictures yet (I'll try to post some later).
clink, Kat and I have been working on some new stuff at Rubble Wall. I was trying to wait a bit until we had enough to make it worth the trip up there and also because the weather has not been warm enough until recently to want to go back. I have aspirations for a few more routes and some eventual rebolting.
Here is what we have done so far:
North side of Rubble Wall
– great on a hot day (stays shady). Approach time 1hour 45 minutes
Hammer in My Heart 5.2* - this unusual route is located on a unique ridge of
rock known as The Heart of Pinnacles. The ridge is situated on the hillside on the
northeastern side of Rubble Wall. The ridge is oriented NE-SW, roughly parallel to and
separated by a 50-foot gap from the ridge that comprises The Teeth. The ridge has a large,
slightly rotated, heart-shaped hole about midway down its length. To reach the ridge, go to the
uphill (eastern end) of Rubble Wall and follow along the base of the wall in a downhill fashion
(to the northwest). There is some 3rd class scrambling required.
It is possible to walk and scramble along the top of The Heart of Pinnacles from the
uphill side. The section directly above the heart-shaped hole is the narrowest and most
exposed.
There is a large boulder on the hillside just uphill from the start of the climb that makes a great
staging area (on its uphill side). Walk downhill and around the toe of the ridge to the side nearest
the Teeth (northwest side) to start the route. Scramble up a knobby face to two huge knobs
reminiscent of Photographer’s Delight, below an obvious overhanging notch. Step up to the base
of the notch and clip a bolt on the right side, inside the notch. The end of the large protruding
feature on the left (the Donger) should be avoided, as should the bread-loaf sized knob
directly below it. If you are climbing this unique route – please take care not to damage
or destroy the Donger. Move up into the notch and surmount it (5.2). Step over to the
huge, exposed knob on the right and then continue up to the top of the ridge (class four).
Traverse the ridge for another 60 feet, taking advantage of slingable features and
directional channels in the rock. Belay by slinging a large pointed horn near the end of the
ridge, 100 feet from the start. Walk off. The climbing to the top of the ridge is 45 feet
long. Protection – one bolt and several double-length slings (4 foot).
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 10-29-17
I'd like to dedicate this climb to my mother, Patricia Lawrence. May she rest in peace.
Pebbles and Bam Bam 5.8* - Pebbles and Bam Bam is one of two steep and knobby routes on a
north facing wall below The Teeth. From Hammer in my Heart, walk 75 feet down the
hill to your left (west) and then along the base of the wall until you reach a nice staging area
below The Teeth. Looking up from the staging area, a mossy ramp leads to a wall covered with a
mix of large and huge knobs, several mossy water streaks and looming at the top are giant, head-
like protrusions of rock. The notch where the West Tooth route starts is almost directly above on
your right. Pebbles and Bam Bam starts to the right of the left-most mossy water chute (on clean,
gray rock) for 3 bolts, moves left into the chute for one bolt and then moves back right to a 5th
bolt and out right and up to finish. It may also be possible to climb straight up from the 5th bolt
but the rock is absolutely filthy and moss covered and that is not the way the first ascent was
achieved. Walk/scramble (up and right) about 15 feet from the top of the route to a 2-bolt anchor
with chains, located above one of the most unique pieces of rock in Pinnacles – The Recliner.
Take a seat on this amazing stone chair and relax after climbing - with incredible views.
FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-19-17
Betty and Barney 5.6* - Betty and Barney starts up the mossy water streak 12 feet right of
Pebbles and Bam Bam. The original plan to climb to the right of this chute/streak on the clean
gray blunt arete was thwarted by poor rock quality (for drilling). The rock looks great but every
tested spot rang/sounded hollow. Climb big holds to a steep stance and the first bolt. Move
up past the first bolt where a giant rectangular lodestone can be slung if desired. The second bolt
can be clipped when standing on this same lodestone. Stem up past the second bolt and reach
high to make a slabby/mantly exit. Walk/scramble up to the anchor above The Recliner. Rappel
the face between the two climbs. FA Party: John and Kathy Cook FA Date: 2-4-18
Long in the Tooth 5.8** - This route starts at the base of the slightly northwest facing wall
below West Tooth and climbs to the summit of West Tooth (on the opposite side from the
original route). From staging at Pebbles and Bam Bam/Betty and Barney, walk 40 feet down
(west) and around the toe of the ridge that comprises The Teeth.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 - Climb up past 3 bolts and then make a traverse left into an obvious chute. A huge
lodestone can be slung in the chute (6-foot sling) to protect the final moves to the 2-bolt
anchor/belay above. 75 feet.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 - climb up and right above the anchor (the Take a Knee Traverse) and then
start up the steep face past 3 closely spaced bolts. Past the 3rd bolt, an easy runout leads to
one more bolt that protects moves to the “peek-a-boo” anchor. The true summit can be reached
by moving up and left from the anchor to reach the “armpit” of the hole-in-the-arch and then
back right to stand on the big knob inches below the anchor. The anchor was placed lower than
the summit in the concave hollow, due to the total lack of surface area and drillable rock on
the summit (the summit sounds like styrofoam or cardboard when struck with a hammer).
Careful rappelling over a wildly exposed and then overhanging line deposits you back perfectly
at the p1 anchor. Belaying your follower from the top of pitch 2 is not recommended.
FA Party: John Cook, Jon Cochran, Kathy Cook FA Date: 11-8-17
