Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

Posting here because the climb was previously mentioned but if this is too long I can make it its own thread.

Your TR is the definition of Quest for Mud.

Cole somehow lead every pitch of shake and bake with his massive balls weighing him down.

No disrespect to Higgins but maybe we should change the name to Shake and Clank

We then toproped Electric Blue by lowering off the top shared anchors. This is a great sustained climb that judging by the amount of dirt does not get done a lot.

I remember Atom saying that is a nice climb. Don't recall anyone else ever mentioning it in my few puny years of being a Pinnhead.

I'll admit I was puckered as heck for the "5.5" lead up to the crack before the first bolt.

It was a nail biter watching you from the trail. The moves you made and body positions you got into did not look like 5.5 to me.

Anchor situation on P1 for bolt people

Are the two pitons fixed at the belay or did you guys place those?
I've been called a lot of things but this seems new. 
I think I like it.

Cole happy it is over
Overall awesome experience. Good weekend.

You guys just became local legends. 

[Marco]

Are the two pitons fixed at the belay or did you guys place those?

They were fixed.

It was a nail biter watching you from the trail. The moves you made and body positions you got into did not look like 5.5 to me.

I would agree it for sure was the hardest "5.5" I have done in the park and unprotected minus a knob none the less. Though caring a hammer, other aid gear, large rack with pins, and in approach shoes may have me extremely biased.
I guess it really did make me feel like a budding 5.6 climber.

No disrespect to Higgins but maybe we should change the name to Shake and Clank

I like it

Some other notes I should have included:
We brought a lot of gear and did not place anything smaller than a green alien/black totem. Also did not place a single nut.

The first pitch took 2 hours, from start to being at the anchors. Cole is extremely quick on jugs so I couldn't imagine it took him more than 20 minutes to clean. 
The second pitch took around 3 hours to lead and clean. I took a while getting my jugs setup and lowering out, so it probably was an hour cleaning.
The traverse yielded the worst rock and placements and probably took an hour for Cole to complete. Looking at it while jugging I think that is fast as the placements were some of the wildest placements I've seen at pinnacles. Cole wouldn't admit it but he killed it on the pitch with very creative placements I wouldn't have thought of using.

[Gavin]

Impressive effort Marco and Cole - that "5.5" route looks heinous.

[Gavin]

I had some good climbing days too, with Mikayla last weekend, and then yesterday.

Last weekend we climbed Full Circle at Balconies and she rocked it leading all the pitches. The rock quality is mixed but the movement through each pitch is sustained and super fun - I still feel pretty proud of work done establishing that line. We toproped some of Shake & Bake too - definitely awesome climbing on that water streak.

Yesterday we went out to the Stronghold and did a number of routes. Mikayla led Great Minds (5.10a) clean, onsighted Second Glance (5.10d) and Hidden Treasure (5.8 ), climbed Ancient Relic (5.10a). Then we rappelled down the two pitches of Scaling the Ramparts (5.11a), setting up the first pitch on TR so Mikayla could lead the second pitch after we climbed through the first. It was great to get back on that route after finishing it last year - I was really interested to hear her thoughts on it and she agreed it was 5.11a for the first pitch, 5.10a for the second pitch, and a solid 2 stars.

Lots of fun climbing!

[burnsbabe]

That pitch 1 anchor is...definitely something. I guess there being 5 different points you're attached is encouraging.

Gavin, do closures go into effect on 1/1? Or is it later in January?

[Brad Young]

Marco and Cole, were the Lost Arrows still fixed, up under the roof, on the last (traversing) bit of the second pitch? I remember finally getting in stuff I could trust at that point and positively welding them upward into the crack (that is, beating the holy living crap out of them). Mr Mud tried to get the first of those out and after five minutes of beating with the pin not budging an iota I told him to just leave it (and the next few).

I wonder if subsequent parties left those in place.

[JC w KC redux]

That pitch 1 anchor is...definitely something. I guess there being 5 different points you're attached is encouraging.

Button heads are known for the heads shearing off and Leepers were all recalled (but you probably already know that).

Gavin, do closures go into effect on 1/1? Or is it later in January?

Typically the day after Martin Luther King Day (around January 15th).

[Cole Ing]

The rock quality is mixed but the movement through each pitch is sustained and super fun - I still feel pretty proud of work done establishing that line.

I really enjoyed Full Circle!  It definitely deserves its two stars for its length and sustained nature alone.  Not to mention it's on the coolest formation in the park.  Thanks to you and Brad for putting in the work on that one.

Marco and Cole, were the Lost Arrows still fixed, up under the roof, on the last (traversing) bit of the second pitch? I remember finally getting in stuff I could trust at that point and positively welding them upward into the crack (that is, beating the holy living crap out of them)

There was one LA fixed a couple moves into the roof traverse and boy was I glad it was there.  Definitely was the most confidence-inspiring piece I clipped the entire traverse.  I had run out of LAs (I placed the two I had in the crack leading up to the traverse) so after I whipped I lowered down (off the black Totem Marco mentioned ripped on him) to back clean one.  If I go up again, which I absolutely won't, I'd definitely bring a few more LAs.  Beaks were useful too.  You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing clean.

[Brad Young]

You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing.

I fixed this sentence for you.

[Brad Young]

Button heads are known for the heads shearing off and Leepers were all recalled (but you probably already know that).

Ah hell, we used to haul 300 pound haul bags from these on El Cap routes like South Seas. I've got the photos to prove it. So all bolts like this have got to be bombproof... don't they?

Sometimes I wonder how I am still alive 

[JC w KC redux]

You'd have to be a bit psycho to do this thing.

I fixed this sentence for you.

Barry...er...I mean Brad beat me to it

[Marco]

Impressive effort Marco and Cole - that "5.5" route looks heinous.

Spot on description of the "5.5".
Prior to the climb we took a picture of our old reliable '95 Rubine book and had no idea there was 4 bolts on the first pitch. We also expected it to top out. Once through P2 we went with the mountain project description and just accepted that 2 pitches was plenty.
Apon consulting the '07 Young guidebook later we realized there was 4 bolts in the first pitch so I must have missed the first one.
No topo with us was a cool experience though, as Cole and I thought we would've needlessly consulted it more that we should've and gotten in our heads more.

I'd definitely bring a few more LAs.

The day prior we had agreed on 2 LA's and 2 small angles and the rest beaks, ended up bringing 3 of each which was a good call. Looking back would've done 4+ LAs and just 1 larger angle then different size beaks.

I had some good climbing days too, with Mikayla last weekend, and then yesterday.

Lots of fun climbing!

Mikayla is taking a break from mudncrud after all her excessive recent activity on the site. I'll happily relay what she said though.

She really liked Full Circle, Second Glance, Ancient Relic, and as per usualy Great Minds. All of which she would go back for. She also wants to lead Scaling the Ramparts. Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes and her saying she would go back to a Pinnacles climb means it is good. Would echo they are all great routes that should get more attention.

[clink]

Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes...

 

[Brad Young]

Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes...

And this is one of Mikayla's very, very few personality flaws.

Actually, upon second thought, maybe she's the smartest one currently posting here?

[JC w KC redux]

Someone once told me it's wise not to make comparisons.

That is why they make chocolate and vanilla.

[Gavin]

She really liked Full Circle, Second Glance, Ancient Relic, and as per usual Great Minds. All of which she would go back for. She also wants to lead Scaling the Ramparts. Unlike me she has respectable standards for routes and her saying she would go back to a Pinnacles climb means it is good. Would echo they are all great routes that should get more attention.

You would definitely like Scaling the Ramparts. It is well protected throughout, especially on the 5.11a and 5.10+ cruxes on the first pitch. I would be happy to go back and climb that with you too. It's really cool, with the two pitches each quite long but very different from each other.

[JC w KC redux]

We met Noal yesterday and went up to climb Hidden Treasure. I am still feeling pretty uncertain about things and was grateful for his patience, kindness and encouragement.

We couldn't help notice that the park service yanked out a garbage can (safety cones) and the first three picnic tables and grills. No soup for you. I was telling Kat and Noal that their long term plan is to eliminate the lower parking lot and everything that is situated in the flood plain.





Frosty bridge (our version of a White Christmas)





Finishing the approach





pitch 1 bolt 3





pitch 2 - bolt 2 high-clipped





We had a feast of Korean tacos courtesy of Noal back at the parking lot while we watched the almost full moon rise over the High Peaks. Thanks dude!

On the way out we got a surprise when a giant wild boar crossed the road not far in front of us. 
Kat was driving and saw the shape coming toward the road (she had bright lights on) and managed to hit the brakes in time. Noal was fairly close behind us and saw it too.   

[Brad Young]

I've climbed on the West Side many times. But I've never had Noal's tacos in West Side parking. Sounds like a real highlight (especially after realizing at the Masters of Mud that his food-prep skills are NOT merely run of the mill)!

Merry Christmas everyone!

[NOAL]

Fun day!  Still a fair amount of people for Xmas eve.  John did a great job leading Hidden Treasure.

The days should be getting longer so will probably bring the portable grill  for post climbing hang in the parking lot. Anybody can join us. I brought extra stuff yesterday but feel free to bring your own grillables or beers. Also, since the park pulled the tables make sure and bring a chair.

Merry X-Mas

[JC w KC redux]

his food-prep skills are NOT merely run of the mill!

Far from it.
Yesterday was thinly sliced, marinated beef on a corn tortilla with pickled daikon, cabbage, cilantro and a mixed sauce of mayo and siracha (he even had that in a restaurant-style squeeze bottle. Dude doesn't miss a beat. I thoroughly enjoyed everything but the cilantro. I must lack the gene that allows me to enjoy that flavor. My brother says the same thing. I talk to people that say how good they think it tastes but I have never liked it.

As far as other climbers on the west side, we did see a party of three head off early and talked to another party of two headed to Costanoan. Considering we saw no one at the popular routes on the way in, I wouldn't be surprised if the party of 3 also went to Citadel.