Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Jody]

Anybody know who this is?
We peeled this sticker off the climber access sign at Tilting Terrace.
Pretty sure we saw one at Dragonfly Dome too but didn't realize it would peel off at the time.

Social Justice Fund

[JC w KC redux]

Drifting over from the bird thread.

My question is about your goat rock routes..tried one. 10a right of the 10b. It seemed a bit runout. Was curious how hard to the moves are before the 10a crux and the bolt on.

Here are my notes from Goat Riddance

The crux is spicy as hell. You have to climb an intimidatingly steep section well above the lower bolt to get up to a lodestone and clip a bolt on the lip. Getting past there requires some pretty delicate and wide stemming and the hand holds are quite small. I had to trust some handhold knobs that I didn’t want to - to get up to the bolt. Getting over the lip definitely had me at my limit and it is one where you have to keep moving steadily. The rest of the climb is relatively easy and long.

[mudworm]

Social Justice Fund

Do you have any basis for making that assertive statement?

If you do a Google search on "SJF logo", you get all sorts of results. Your reference did not make the first page though. The one appeared the most is "St. John Fisher" -- associated with schools and churches. The closest (to Pinnacles) I could find would be San Jose Fire, but I did not find the exact sticker as shown in the picture. Without the exact proof, I will not make stuff up, esp. when the usage of the sticker mentioned in the post is apparently considered an act of poor judgement, even though it's hardly provable that the person who randomly posts a sticker on a sign is always associated with what the sticker represents.

[F4?]

Yes that was about it. Fingers were numb and I didn’t like the next few moves.


Will go back in warmer weather

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
^^^
I couldn't find anything concrete either - thus the probe.
At least the sticker was high enough quality that it peeled off.
The last time we found "graffiti" on the Tilting Terrace sign it was sharpie tagging.
I spent an entire hour lightly chiseling a group of sharpie signatures off a rock in the middle of the Juniper Canyon trail.
I used sandpaper to remove tagging from the railings along the Steep and Narrow trail.
Scrubbed off a huge blue chalk arrow on the trail junction in the High Peaks (Tunnel trail/High Peaks junction).
Started the morning a couple weeks ago picking up trash that was scattered all over the bathroom/picnic area on the west side.

We now carry a trash picker and trash bags in both our vehicles.

The sides of the highway along 101 are littered for miles with chopped up agricultural plastic and trash from the bush hogs just mowing it all and cleaning up nothing. It's a total eyesore. Everyone needs to email the county and request a clean up.
   

[NOAL]

[Jody]

Do you have any basis for making that assertive statement?

If you do a Google search on "SJF logo", you get all sorts of results. Your reference did not make the first page though. The one appeared the most is "St. John Fisher" -- associated with schools and churches. The closest (to Pinnacles) I could find would be San Jose Fire, but I did not find the exact sticker as shown in the picture. Without the exact proof, I will not make stuff up, esp. when the usage of the sticker mentioned in the post is apparently considered an act of poor judgement, even though it's hardly provable that the person who randomly posts a sticker on a sign is always associated with what the sticker represents.

No, just a suggestion. I agree on your thought that the poster of the sticker isn't always actually associated with it.

[F4?]

Mud worm, were you out crushing yesterday? Looked for you, well a Prius...

[Zay]

Late to the party, as usual, but concerning Son Of Dawn Wall:

The first time I did it, my partner led the final 4th Class pitch. She pretty much stayed in the Gulley, placed a few pieces of gear, and we found it to be "pretty hard for fourth class."

The second time I did it, I lead every pitch, including the that last one: Instead of staying in the Gully, I cut out left very soon, out onto the ridge. Absolutely zero protection opportunities on that face, but the climbing was exceptionally easier (honest 3rd and 4th class). This was also led to a summit register box that we did not see on my first ascent of the route. Following this ridge led right to the anchor bolts as last time (rap station for The Hideout, I believe).

I hope that is useful to somebody

[JC w KC redux]

Late to the party, as usual, but concerning Son Of Dawn Wall:

The first time I did it, my partner led the final 4th Class pitch. She pretty much stayed in the Gulley, placed a few pieces of gear, and we found it to be "pretty hard for fourth class."

The second time I did it, I lead every pitch, including the that last one: Instead of staying in the Gully, I cut out left very soon, out onto the ridge. Absolutely zero protection opportunities on that face, but the climbing was exceptionally easier (honest 3rd and 4th class). This was also led to a summit register box that we did not see on my first ascent of the route. Following this ridge led right to the anchor bolts as last time (rap station for The Hideout, I believe).

I hope that is useful to somebody

I've heard people say 4th class can mean moves up to 5.8 (Mr. Mud would say 5.7).

According to the poster on that other site - his partner went right (not left) out of the gully and evidently thought he could trust Pinnacles rock. Two...two...two mistakes in one.

[JC w KC redux]

A few shots from the redpoint of Grin and Bear It 5.9 (closed now for raptors)

Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected





Stemming across to start the crumbly but well protected traverse

[JC w KC redux]

This past Wednesday the 20th was our first day back on the west side after high winds passed through Pinnacles.
Just before we got to the gate, there was a big broken-off branch blocking the outbound lane.
I had my tree saw - so we stopped and cut a big piece off, moved that to the inbound shoulder of the road and rolled the main piece onto the outbound shoulder. I should have taken a pic before we cut and moved it.

The cut piece and some loose, broken branches we moved to the inbound shoulder





The main branch we rolled up onto the outbound shoulder

[Chris Henry]

Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected

Cool looking stemming - I'll have to check this out in the fall!

[F4?]

Ha! The stemming was or is the best part....did the rest clean up?

[Brad Young]

This past Wednesday the 20th was our first day back on the west side after high winds passed through Pinnacles.
Just before we got to the gate, there was a big broken-off branch blocking the outbound lane.
I had my tree saw - so we stopped and cut a big piece off, moved that to the inbound shoulder of the road and rolled the main piece onto the outbound shoulder. I should have taken a pic before we cut and moved it.

The cut piece and some loose, broken branches we moved to the inbound shoulder





The main branch we rolled up onto the outbound shoulder

They really ought to pay you two for all you do.

Grin and Bear It looked and looks good from below. I'll have to take your word for it that the rock quality isn't good... at least for now.

[F4?]

Serious soft brushing needed

[mynameismud]

cool looking route

A few shots from the redpoint of Grin and Bear It 5.9 (closed now for raptors)

Near the top of the best part (the start) - first 40 feet is gear protected





Stemming across to start the crumbly but well protected traverse

[JC w KC redux]

More details later...

[mungeclimber]

Its now later.

[Brad Young]

Its now later.

Question: what would you name a route on Pachyderm Pinnacle that started up a 45 foot flared chimney?

Thinking about the various areas of an elephant's body I came up with "Under the Tail" or "Behind the Ear." I settled on the second one. J.C. is making the route's second ascent (I was on the summit drilling an anchor while he did so).