Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[clink]

You did look like a toddler having playtime

[JC w KC redux]

You did look like toddler having playtime

Maybe it was the swaddling nature of your cuddly belay 

[scotticusmaximus]

I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans!  Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado.  It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! 

[JC w KC redux]

I've been away from the forums for a while, so it's nice to see that all y'all are still up to the usual shenanigans!  Definitely missing Pinnacles looking at your pictures as I huddle inside during the snow and cold of Northern Colorado.  It's supposed to be warmish this weekend though, so maybe I'll be able to get outside climbing finally - can't let you guys have all of the fun in California! 

Duuuuuude. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

[clink]

Hey Scott! Great to have you check in!

[JC w KC redux]

beano leads the Anvil





beano and KC – It was THIS BIG!




Narrowly escaping the clutches of a rampaging beano





beano leads Pipsqueak





Check out the differences in our climbing styles on Primrose Pinnacle (me, then clink)

[scotticusmaximus]

Most excellent!  I feel like I'm right there with you...minus the second picture that is.  I can skip that one (so big and scary!). =)

[beanolar]

Good times, Cookies!

More crud, once this rain lets up!!

[clink]

 JC  had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.

[JC w KC redux]

JC  had his back to the camera for all the Primrose shots. Hiding a stupid grin no doubt.

Watch who you are calling stupid boy 

[JC w KC redux]

Good times, Cookies!

More crud, once this rain lets up!!

Ready to go. Rain Rain Go Away.

[JC w KC redux]

Kat and I went to the Toes yesterday.
We climbed the South Toe and then I replaced the lead bolt and the anchor.

Here is what the NWS calls a mostly sunny day





Here is the old anchor. Notice the homemade hanger and huge space under the allen drop-in bolt. Whoever rapped off this bolt last used up one of their cat lives.





Someone added an anchor bolt. As far as I could tell, it is a stainless sleeve bolt with a no name brand stainless hanger. It had a 3/8 screw link and a carbon steel rap ring. I loosened it and rotated the hanger to equalize with my ASCA replacement bolt and tightened it back down. It was flush and tight, so I decided it should be okay with my replacement bolt. If anyone knows anything about it, it would be nice to know the history. I added a screwlink and single link of chain to my bolt.





After I replaced the anchor I decided to replace the lead bolt. The lead bolt is three quarters of the way up the route, not about halfway up as stated in the guidebook. It was a short 3/8 star dryvin with the sleeves incorrectly installed under the Leeper hanger. The nail came out with almost no effort after getting it started with the tuning fork. The sleeves and lead sleeve slipped out easily, all in one piece.





I plan to go back and rebolt the anchor on the North Toe on our next trip out.  
I could only see one old bolt on the North summit with a piece of tied cord and an old oval biner.
The hanger looks like a Leeper.

[JC w KC redux]

Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.

[JC w KC redux]

Kat, beano and I climbed and rebolted North Toe today.
I'll post more details and some pics later.
Beauty of a day with many condors giving us a show throughout the day.

Here's a couple pics from yesterday.

The climbing for the North Toe is the same as the South Toe route up to the only protection bolt.
Things get interesting when you turn about face and commit to the North Toe's face.

I'm still quite a few chimney moves below the only bolt – North Toe/South Toe - thanks to beanolar for getting this pic.
You can scroll back two posts to my labeled pic to see where the bolt is. Neither of the gals wanted to lead this climb.





beano doing the Toe jam – this is the squeeziest squeeze chimney we’ve done in a while





KC follows North Toe – I thought this was a scary lead because the only protection bolt is across on the South Toe (behind you) and way below you by the time you are doing the crux moves on the North Toe's face. The crux moves on the North Toe also depend on a single good knob (her right hand is on it) providing you are willing to go all in. If that sucker ever breaks, the climb will be a lot harder. My exact words were - If this knob goes, I'm gone. This is another Pinns no fall route. It deserves an R imo.

[beanolar]

OMG FUN climb!! Too bad it's too scary to lead, at least for this bean. Glad John took the bullet for us, and swapped out the old junky hw. We need more chimneys!!

[NOAL]

Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.

[clink]

 Athletes toe jam

[JC w KC redux]

Chimneys hmmmmm.......get JC to climb OCD Overdrive with you. It has one of his favorite chimneys.

Duuuuude 

[JC w KC redux]

Athletes toe jam

You don't have to jam toes but just about everything else. It is tough getting through that squeeze. Even my harness waist belt was catching and my back loop. Put what little bit of gear you need on the left side or you're sunk.

beano tried the rap line on North Toe on TR.
clink - you should unlock the sequence and get it clean for the TR FA of Toe Cheese 

[JC w KC redux]

I developed a bad toothache today but I have a plan to get rid of it soon.