Author Topic: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)  (Read 602884 times)

F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1980 on: October 07, 2020, 04:09:23 PM »
I resemble that comment.

Mungie, will you go climbing with me??
I'm not worthy.

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1981 on: October 07, 2020, 07:19:59 PM »
Quote
 none of the "meaningful" trails are open and climbing has been specifically targeted (look at the NPS Pinnacles website for details) 

So off trail cross country is o.k?  If you are working on a new  route is it really a climbing route and off limits? Asking for a friend.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1982 on: October 07, 2020, 08:10:26 PM »
So off trail cross country is o.k?  If you are working on a new  route is it really a climbing route and off limits? Asking for a friend.

Evidently knot but...

not to worry...

Good news is imminent  :thumbup: :biggrin: :yesnod: :ihih:
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F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1983 on: October 07, 2020, 09:15:28 PM »
Yes, I have good news....I was regular today.
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1984 on: October 08, 2020, 07:03:15 AM »
Yes, I have good news....I was regular today.

Does that need to go on the Historic or the poop thread?
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waldo

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1985 on: October 08, 2020, 11:02:15 AM »
Actually, Brad is somewhat literate.

And I don't pester. I just point out that certain people are becoming has-beens.



I "has been" climbing at Pinns as recently as June.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1986 on: October 08, 2020, 02:12:16 PM »

STARTING TOMORROW FRIDAY 10-9-20

Gates are open. Pandemic guidelines are still in place.
All trails EXCEPT cave trails on both sides are open.
Parking lots on the east side are FINALLY OPEN.

Woohoo!
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BAP

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1987 on: October 08, 2020, 02:18:13 PM »
Good news!  Thank you John.

F4?

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1988 on: October 08, 2020, 04:54:55 PM »
What are you suggesting?
I'm not worthy.

mungeclimber

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1989 on: October 08, 2020, 05:04:12 PM »
I can has cheeseburger?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1990 on: October 08, 2020, 06:00:09 PM »
Actually, Brad is somewhat literate.

And I don't pester.

What?!
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1991 on: November 02, 2020, 12:12:37 PM »
Tomorrow will be two weeks since Kat and I did this route.
Zay has asked about it a couple times over the last year or so - so hopefully he is still watching.
I too have been curious about it and have been eyeballing it from afar since we did several of the other old routes on the formation.
clink has regaled me repeatedly with tales of the time he and Geoff climbed it back in the day - before cams were available.
All right, all right - enough already. What route you say?
Proclamation Pinnacle - North Summit Crack 5.7
In brief - the route description says climb 60 feet up a crack to a ledge - then traverse the ledge to an unprotected 100 foot chimney.
Use stoppers and a double set of cams to 4 inches. Hmmmmm...
You have to wonder why you need all that gear for 60 feet?
Go climb the route and you'll find out.
I placed about 15 pieces on the first pitch and three at the anchor.
I took a #6 too - just in case the chimney squeezed down enough to be protectable at some point. I ended up using it on the first pitch.

The route from a distance





Why you can't see the bottom of the route from a distance. Looking down from the base of the route to west side parking, the parking lot is completely obscured.





The first pitch from below (standing back a bit). It's the classic "looks easy from here". It's not.





Looking up the chimney from directly below. That's right - the green you see is a massive thicket of PO





Time to get on the sharp end.









Having lunch on The Can after the route (sorry - no pictures of the chimney).





There is a lot more to the story.
Suffice it to say, I woke up in the middle of the night afterwards feeling glad to be alive.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1992 on: November 02, 2020, 05:10:17 PM »

I fixed the picture links - Google has been acting up today with my machine telling me I need to update Windows.

I'll let Tuff Chik give you her impressions of the day - ie what she was thinking while following the climb.
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Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1993 on: November 02, 2020, 05:25:10 PM »
While climbing the first pitch of the route and seeing all the moss, broken-up rock, removing gear that might have slowed him down (a few pieces might have held) and just wondering what might break on me, I started thinking how lucky we were that nothing broke while he was climbing.

Once I traversed over and figured out how to get in to the chimney I finally relaxed a little.  However, once he took off up the chimney with no protection to be had and pieces of rock coming down the chimney (sometimes smacking me and/or my helmet) I started wondering how crazy we must be. 

Me climbing the 100 foot chimney is a story for the campfire ...

I'm glad this is a route I never have to follow again. 

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1994 on: November 02, 2020, 05:38:15 PM »
While climbing the first pitch of the route and seeing all the moss, broken-up rock, removing gear that might have slowed him down (a few pieces might have held) and just wondering what might break on me, I started thinking how lucky we were that nothing broke while he was climbing.

You'll recall I did not use the phrase - "If this goes...I'm gone"  :lol:
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Brad Young

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1995 on: November 02, 2020, 05:41:25 PM »

...I'm glad this is a route I never have to follow again.


Nope. Now you'll have to lead it.

Tuff Chik

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1996 on: November 02, 2020, 06:08:03 PM »
Nope. Now you'll have to lead it.

Chance Brothers

BAP

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1997 on: November 03, 2020, 10:14:41 AM »
PO and loose shit, are you guys crazy??!!!!

NOAL

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1998 on: November 03, 2020, 12:44:26 PM »
You were off route. Supposed to go through the PO bush.  Invalid ascent. You will need to go back for a repeat.  Bring hazmat suit.

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Re: Quest for Mud (Special Edition)
« Reply #1999 on: November 03, 2020, 03:21:15 PM »
You were off route. Supposed to go through the PO bush.  Invalid ascent. You will need to go back for a repeat.  Bring hazmat suit.

Funny you should say that.
The original description in Richard's guidebook says use the first crack left of the chimney - which would put you right in the thicket.
It doesn't take much investigation to realize that description is flawed.
The climbing is highlee and unlikelee (for clink) and the rock before that crack is all loose. Somebody goofed.

Now as far as being off route in the chimney?
Who the hell knows?
You're climbing 100 feet with absolutely no indication/evidence of where the FA party went.
You have to be fairly familiar with the other routes (since you eventually join them).
It is a series of moving up and then in, up and then in, lather, rinse, repeat...all while trying not to kill the belayer with rockfall.
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