Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[Gavin]

I have a feeling a number of people reading the last several posts may be a bit confused and wondering, "What the heck are folks talking about with a new route at Discovery Wall?"

I had been eyeing a more direct (and difficult) start to Buffalo Soldier for some time. Brian and I had originally intended to do some climbing at the Yaks today, but the weird weather - drizzly fog in the morning - made us switch course and try for finishing the new line at Discovery Wall instead. We were able to get the FA done today; my draft route description is below (which Brad will post in the next few days when he's had a chance to review it). It turned out well and is a really fun, sustained line. It feels like a more natural way of moving into the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier after a bunch of sustained 5.10 below, and now makes it possible for climbing parties to independently climb Ordeal and the new route at the same time, to separate anchors.

The route name refers to the follow-up line in the Bob Marley song.

Here is the description:

83.5 Dreadlock Rasta 5.11a *** This route starts 15 feet right of Ordeal, and serves as a more direct and difficult start leading to the crux sequences of Buffalo Soldier. Four bolts move through 45 feet of excellent and sustained sequences on great rock before moving into the shallow dihedral of Buffalo Soldier, finishing with the crack (with options for medium to large cams) and remaining four bolts on the latter climb. 100 feet, 8 bolts, cams (1-3 inch) between 4th and 5th bolts. FA Party: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton. FA Date: January 11, 2020.

[F4?]

Ha! Buffalo Solder is my favorite route. Cool you guys got a direct start.

Wtf where was Mr Mud? He usually had shit like this in his head.

Good job!

[JC w KC redux]

Amber came out climbing with us yesterday.
These photos had me and Kat laughing last night.
Hopefully they'll also give you a chuckle 

[BAP]

Nice photos.  I should had gone with you guys instead.

[JC w KC redux]

Nice photos.  I should had gone with you guys instead.

I didn't think of that. I could have belayed Brad on the new route and you and Amber could have taken turns.

Oh well...It is the year of hindsight 

[JC w KC redux]

We got out each day for the Inn at Pinnacles yearly weekend.

Friday was no climbing (with all the rain Thursday) but I did get that graffiti removed on the Juniper Canyon trail.
Kat and I hiked the Upper Balconies trail and then walked below the wall from Lava Falls to Knifeblade Direct and looped back down. Lava Falls and Shake and Bake were running water and each of them got us a bit as we passed beneath. I felt like I was getting away with something as we walked below the area to the right of there, where all the rock has already fallen away - with much more to happen...not a matter of if but when.

Saturday we looked at a few things that were still wet and decided to top out a new pinnacle. The Honey Pot.
The route can stay under wraps, since the area will be under closures after today.

Yesterday we climbed a few new things and a few old favorites.

We opted out today, after 3 days of gloom and more of the same forecast.

The rest of the crowd stayed another night but I imagine they are either headed home or not far from leaving by now.

BAP remarked yesterday (when we reached Scout Peak) that she had sweat in her eye  

[JC w KC redux]

The Honey Pot in all its glory.
So glad the route went on gear only (except an anchor bolt).
The route (Pooh Corner) is around to the left and can't be seen in this picture.

[Brad Young]

And one half-sentence doesn’t even begin to describe what John did to remove that graffiti. It basically cost him most of a day. And the quality of his work was so incredible that, even though I’d seen the graffiti more than once, the next time I walked past it I was only pretty sure I could remember which rock it had been on. Thanks for the effort, J.C.

[JC w KC redux]

And one half-sentence doesn’t even begin to describe what John did to remove that graffiti. It basically cost him most of a day. And the quality of his work was so incredible that, even though I’d seen the graffiti more than once, the next time I walked past it I was only pretty sure I could remember which rock it had been on. Thanks for the effort, J.C.

Thanks. Glad to do it.
I thought about signing my name to the work after it was done. 

[Gavin]

Nice work removing the graffiti, John - your efforts are much appreciated!

[clink]

 The follies of JC and KC, mating in the High Peaks.

 Any documentation of this?

[JC w KC redux]

The follies of JC and KC, mating in the High Peaks.
Any documentation of this?

I think you have taken care of mating duties for the entire human race.

That was domesticated.

This was wild.

The male came in first and nearly landed on our heads. Kat shrieked and so did he, as he veered and landed on the adjacent summit. The female came in next and while I was rappelling, the male started his "dance" and then proceeded with the ritual.
 




Talk about a public display 

[NOAL]

Condor style.

[JC w KC redux]

Condor style.

The noises they were making were bizarre.

[JC w KC redux]

The last couple days climbing were interesting and yesterday was phenomenal.

Thursday we went to do a couple of Brad's new routes. The Missing Link was particularly interesting.
The first pitch is "only" class four but really cool. It leads to a short, steep streak that is likely one of the best protected 5.9's at Pinnacles. The clips are right where you want them and the main crux is quite tricky. The sub crux (past bolt 3) is a little easier but no picnic either - you can high clip both cruxes.  

Here's a shot of me getting through the main crux past bolt 2





Yesterday I finally got on Long's Folly Regular Route. I have looked at this thing more times than I can remember. I told myself when I was psyching up to get on lead that it was easier than what I did the day before (little did I know). After you clip bolt 3 and move around the arete to clip bolt 4 and get in the water chute it is game on and the clock is ticking. The feet are good but the bulge pushes you out just enough that it is hard to hang on to a limited selection of not-so-good hand holds. The result - forearms flaming as you lean slightly back, trying to figure out the hands. I stepped down several times and was able to shake out one arm at a time but I knew I was in trouble. The good looking knobs are all polished and have no positive edges so they were worthless for me. I settled on a 5.9+/5.10 crimper for the left hand (fading fast) and a push down for the right hand (classic Pinns maneuver). I barely pulled it off before my grip was going to fail.

Ratings are so difficult to define. The 5.9 I had done the day before had good feet and wasn't pushing me out much, so I had time to stand there and really suss the moves out before committing. Now compare the 5.8 on Long's Folly to the 5.8 on Sombrero. Sombrero has you throwing sequential moves in a continuous fashion and if you don't hit everything just right or don't know how to hit the holds, you won't pull it off. The beauty of that one is you can easily start over from the ground (it took me three tries to unlock it and get it clean). Long's Folly makes you feel like you are dangling out in space and feels really exposed (thank goodness for the high clip) while you are trying to keep your balance and find the right holds. Maybe knowing what I know now would make it easier - maybe not. Either way it has a high thrill factor. The 5th bolt protects moves up into the the chimney nicely and you can get a good #3 camalot in not long after you get in. If I climbed it again, I would take a #5 and #6 camalot too. The chimney climbing is cool, with several good rests, decent rock with some features and the flare isn't too awkward.

High in the chimney on Long's Folly (I have always called it the Butt Crack)



The rest of the day was unusually good. The weather, the people we ran into and the 10 or 12 condors circling (plus the two mating) all combined to make a superbly memorable outing.

[JC w KC redux]

High in the chimney on Long's Folly (I have always called it the Butt Crack)

Appropriate since I almost got mine handed to me 

[clink]

 Fantastic pictures!

[clink]

That was domesticated.

This was wild.

  I would figure that all of the posters on this site have had sex at Pinnacles, even if somewhat domesticated. There are so many private places, hidden alcoves. Tick checks getting carried away...

[JC w KC redux]

  I would figure that all of the posters on this site have had sex at Pinnacles, even if somewhat domesticated. There are so many private places, hidden alcoves. Tick checks getting carried away...

If they had, I would imagine it would be Unmentionable.

[clink]

If they had, I would imagine it would be Unmentionable.

 Yep, I half expected Noal to post up a video of Simon and Garfunkel's Sound of Silence, but he instead, has been using all his spare time searching the internet for "his and hers" condor outfits.