Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

I saw Larry a few days ago. He is still healing from the dog attack. Going to be some time, I hope he gets close to full use of his hands and wrists. He was in good spirits and I know he wants to get back on his projects!

 Waldo, he is not a ghost, as far as I can tell. His eyes sparkle when he talks about climbing.

That is terrible to hear about Larry. I had no idea his injuries were so bad.
Let's all keep a good thought for him 

[JC w KC redux]

Spent the day with Brad and T doing new routes at The Dispensary.
Had some fun and some mini adventures.
I'll post a pic or two later.

Route descriptions are in the grist mill (visions of Brad at the wheel grinding them out).  

We started the day with a first ascent of a squeeze chimney (thanks Brad). It's 50 feet long, has good rock and good pro and joins Up in Smoke for its second pitch. Really fun (never thought I'd say that about a squeeze chimney).
Moonshiner's Chimney 5.5
I'll nominate it for a star but that is of course debatable.

Here I am taking a nice rest and choosing a piece of gear





Brad and Tricia had to leave afterwards, so we set our sights on some new routes Brad climbed between Christmas and New Years with climberdude

Bibulous Bluff Class Four*





Deb leads Bibulous Bluff (we all took turns leading it). The rope will only "work" if you fall off the left side.
It reminded me of Over Easy or Scrambled at Granny's Kitchen. It ends at that big knob.





Deb and I both led Mescaline Mound 5.2, then downclimbed. It wasn't very photogenic.

We ended the day at Illicit Chimney Dome 5.4
It's a bit downhill from the other Dispensary choices.
Here is a shot from above - mostly obscured by trees. A loose, unprotected squeeze chimney leads to a slingable sub summit and a step across to the main formation and highest summit. A big slingable bump on that side provides more lead pro if desired (double length sling), a belay anchor and a nice spot to set up a Pinns rappel.





Me and Deb on top. She is on the main summit and I am at the belay bump.

[clink]

I have a belay bump, been feasting over the holidays.

[mynameismud]

I had no idea Larry had been injured.  Hope he heals up well.

[JC w KC redux]

I have a belay bump, been feasting over the holidays.

You'd never get in the squeeze chimney...much less up it 

[JC w KC redux]

You'd never get in the squeeze chimney...much less up it 

In fact...I'll take it one step further and DARE YOU to come out climbing with me

[Brad Young]

^^^

You gotta do what he does with his cheeseburgers....

Make it a double.

[JC w KC redux]

^^^
You gotta do what he does with his cheeseburgers....
Make it a double.

Or just inhale. I've had cheeseburgers in the past...but I never inhaled.

That was actually my next move but he must already be in the tub...with bubbles  

[Brad Young]

Or just inhale. I've had cheeseburgers in the past...but I didn't inhale.

That was actually my next move but he must already be in the tub...with bubbles 

And what is the source of these bubbles?

[clink]

This too shall pass.

[clink]

I am now a movable anchor.

[JC w KC redux]

This too shall pass.

When pigs fly.

I am now a movable anchor.

Some things can't be fixed 

[JC w KC redux]

I was out on the west side yesterday and found some unwanted surprises (not to mention some pretty hideous rock on the route I was trying to get going). The start is a hard boulder problem and I'm not sure the holds or the rock quality are enough to support the moves that need to be made to free it.
Abandon city? Sally forth and it's A1 until someone frees it? So many questions  

On the way up Juniper Canyon I was greeted by teepee strewn across the hillside. There was more higher up and yes...a pile of poop...with a little more teepee and a few rocks piled on top - all about 5 minutes from the bathroom.





I cleaned it up and took it back down to the bathroom where I discovered that in addition to one broken faucet in the men's room (it's been broken for weeks) there was also no soap. The women's bathroom also had a broken faucet and no soap. Put on your best Seinfield face "REALLY"? No soap for you.  

Making my way back up the trail I was greeted by this at the creek crossing (yes, that's sharpie)





Later, as I worked fiendishly, an older couple passed on the trail above me walking a small white dog.
They were gone long enough that they probably hiked all the way to the outhouse and back.  

[clink]

Thanks for your work JC. That sharpie on the rock sucks

[Brad Young]

Wish the park service had the resources to track that puke down.

As for your cleanup efforts? How's the saying go: "you're a better man than I Gunga Din?" Thanks for doing it, I'm not sure I could or would have.

[JC w KC redux]

Wish the park service had the resources to track that puke down.

As for your cleanup efforts? How's the saying go: "you're a better man than I Gunga Din?" Thanks for doing it, I'm not sure I could or would have.

We need CCTV on every formation.

The strewn teepee did not appear to be used and I was able to use some paper towels I had in my pocket to stuff it into baggies - then promptly took it to the trash can and washed my hands wish soap residue I scraped off the dispensers in the bathrooms.

I thought maybe those vandals actually signed  a last name but taking a closer look it appears they all thought it was cute to just sign their first names separated by dots.

[JC w KC redux]

Thanks for your work JC. That sharpie on the rock sucks

Is there some way to get that stuff off there?
Sand it off maybe - with some emery cloth?

[Gavin]

When I've seen very obvious sharpie or spray paint graffiti I have resorted to using a drill bit or chisel to hammer and chip off the writing. I haven't found any other effective way to mask the graffiti (without putting more paint on the rock). I feel like it is worth the effort to remove the temptation from other visitors to add their own writing / drawings.

If you don't feel comfortable removing the graffiti yourself, I can try to get to it in the near future with a uniform on. (I should be heading to the west side on Monday to meet up with Brad.) But I think you would be totally justified in saying you were volunteering to remove graffiti, if any visitors ask.

Otherwise - thanks for your efforts removing the TP, John!

[NOAL]

The women's bathroom also had a broken faucet and no soap.

OMG you were in the women's room!? If you'd been caught your Seinfield moment could have turned more Curb-like.

[clink]

 JC, always remember, it is bad etiquette to wipe yourself on the flap of your host's tipi.