Quest for Mud (Special Edition)

[JC w KC redux]

This picture of me leading Numbskull's Needle and the climb itself seem to be designed to confuse.

The first bolt is about chest high and the second is at your waist where you would never expect to see/find it. The first two bolts basically do nothing to protect bouldery moves off of ledges/decks (other than maybe to keep you from going "all the way").
All three lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts appear to be old hardware store junk (wedges?) and are sticking waaaaaay out.
No way to tell how much of the bolt is actually embedded in the rock - my best guesstimate is an inch to an inch and a half.

EDITED - this photo was corrected/rotated courtesy of beano - thank you!





Here is bolt 1 close up. At first glance the start doesn't look that bad but it is harder than it looks and very committing on some pretty lousy rock. Use your own judgement before bouldering up on it and good luck.

[NOAL]

That looks tilted.

[JC w KC redux]

That looks tilted.

Agreed - but it is unmodified from the way you took it (photo credit to Noal).
I tried to rotate it in photoshop but then couldn't crop it with much of anything left.
I took the bolt pic years ago when we stopped to check it out and just kept going...maybe I was smarter then?
Maybe the Earth shifted on its axis just as you snapped the photo  

[NOAL]

Numbskulls.

Not to be confused with Nitwits.

There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.

[JC w KC redux]

Numbskulls.

Not to be confused with Nitwits.

There should be a Dumbasses Pinnacle.

In comparison to Numbskull, Nit-Wit should get a star.

I'll bet we can find a pair of pinnacles or do two routes on one and call them Dumb and Dumber.

[clink]

Moronica

[JC w KC redux]

Moronica

Last of the Moronicans

My old buddy Martin from KY put up a route there called What a Maroon! 

[F4?]

looks fine to me

[JC w KC redux]

looks fine to me

But it's not pink.
Better have some carrots before you go climb it  

[JC w KC redux]

Rubine's book says the bolts on Numbskull are set bolts. That may explain why they stick out so far/are drilled so shallow. With a set bolt, the only thing holding the bolt in is a tapered plug/pin that jams into the hollow, split shaft of the stud as it bottoms out on the back of the hole. This type of bolt is one of the worst choices for a climbing bolt and one of the most difficult to place properly since the depth must be drilled so precisely. If they are drilled to the proper depth, they shouldn't stick out any farther than any other type of stud bolt.

Here's a pic of a 1/4 inch set bolt I removed at Crowley Towers. They typically either slide right out as this one did or snap off, since there is no way to disengage the tapered plug/pin. 

This one was the only lead bolt on the 5.9R and slid out with my fingers after popping it up a half inch or so with the tuning fork.

[F4?]

Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.

[JC w KC redux]

Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.

You and clink should form a comedy team and take it on the road 

[NOAL]

Hanger looks good. I'd re-use it.

Yes!  Re-use all the old crappy hangers.  Attach them to a jean jacket vest. Heavy metal style. Then you can clip gear on them.  Just think you could carry a quadruple rack!  Sick.

[mynameismud]

I like the vest idea.

crappy bolt and aluminum hanger, no fall ethos

[clink]

 Climber themed "Got Junk" jackets, raddickle.
JC and Noal can run a sweat shop out of the garage, I have some grandkids who would be perfect for the child labor force.  :-)

[NOAL]

Dunno if JC has enough hangers to start a vest business.  Maybe do short shorts instead w/ hanger codpiece.

[clink]

 Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.

[waldo]

Then I would have to change my handle to Clank. Might not be a good idea.

Clink,

Clank is a good idea.

[F4?]

Mr Mud would re use them.

[JC w KC redux]

Geezus. I leave you guys alone for a day and look what happens.