Dr. Heckle and Mr. Jive
TOM & BRAD’S COMPLETE
THE LOST WORLD NEW ROUTES LIST; all routes appearing in the same order as are routes in the 2013 guidebook
>[October 31, 2022]
...
Doctor Heckle 5.12a **a. Page(s) the route would appear on: It would appear on pages 346 and 347.
b. Description: This is the left-most of a series of routes that start from the big finishing-ledge where the routes Tom’s Wide Crack Finish, This is Your Brain On Jugs, Jug Overdose and Game of Stones end. Doctor Heckle and Mister Jive both start at the back of that ledge from those routes’ two-bolt top anchor. Climb the bolt-protected left side of a 30 foot high, thin, hourglass-shaped flake that is connected only at its bottom and top. Continue straight up past more bolts before traversing left to the edge of the face and then up. Finish at a two-bolt anchor located on the outer edge of Pop Bottle Ledge.
c. Descent: Lower 75 feet to the start-ledge and anchor. Rappel to the ground from there. Alternatively, walk left off Pop Bottle Ledge.
d. Gear: Eight bolts.
e. FA Party/Date: Tom Addison, Steve Temple, September 7, 2019.
f. Source(s): Notes from Tom Addison’s memory and research while working with him to update The Lost World route list, September 2019 through May 2020; further inspection of this route, July 20, 2021.
g. Other:
Mister Jive 5.12a **a. Pages(s) the route would appear on: It would appear on pages 346 and 347.
b. Description: Start at the same two-bolt bottom anchor as Doctor Heckle. Bolts protect the right side of the 30 foot high, thin, hourglass-shaped flake. Continue up, along seams to an overhanging face (the route crux). Finish at a two-bolt anchor 12 feet right of Doctor Heckle’s anchor.
c. Descent: Lower 75 feet to the start-ledge and anchor. Rappel to the ground from
there. Alternatively, walk left off Pop Bottle Ledge.
d. Gear: All bolts, no gear.
e. FA Party/Date: Tom Addison and partner, 2019.
f. Source(s): Notes from Tom Addison’s memory and research while working with him to update The Lost World route list, September 2019 through May 2020; further inspection of the route, July 20, 2021.
g. Other: Note that the wide crack between Mister Jive and Twenty Years of Solitude has been subject to non-serious cleaning and climbing efforts, but hasn’t been led. It’s probably best to consider this a closed project at this time.
