Mainly raw fingerpads from working steeper stuff with holds breaking, then a redirect start to the left. Details; Find a stance from which to drill as high and to the right as possible. Then right foot on large chip, left hand on small hold for balance, right hand in medium pocket side-pull, step thru with left foot. Extend to left finger stack, high step right foot above waist and way over into good pocket, Reach extremely far to large side-pull hole on right, crank off these two excellent holds to one of two left jug pockets 4+ft above. (Or if you are Mudworm, just float up like a ballerina. BTW congrats on your 12!)
Hang on these, wack on drill as long as you are able switching positions on jugs to rest varying limbs. Reverse moves(or drop). Let your partner go up and gain another 1/8 to 1/4 inch of hole depth. Repeat a dozen times until hole is half drilled. Come back soon with any fool who can be roped in to participate, all are welcome, seats are given free.
Aaron excels at this(mild retardation with a touch of masochism). Or possessed? But then again this rock is McConachie and Mr Mud territory, so in the norm.
Waldo, you and Jack would be proud to see him work. It will take a harder route than this to get him to use a hook, but i am telling him they exist. He still does not believe even after hours of discussion.
The crux appears to be on the bulge that the jugs are at the base of, then the angle changes to much more stance-able terrain. Hope the rock holds up and we can unlock the rest of the moves.
