Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting

[mynameismud]

My routes go to 11!

It would be nice to get some kind of feedback on Up the Buttress.  The bottom is probably 10a, maybe 10b.  The upper part off of the ledge is probably 5.9.   The upper part is kind of cool, steep balance moves with good feet follow the line up the buttress.  The lower part is a bit junky but has fun moves. 

[mynameismud]

We got to the parking lot around between 7 and 7:30 in the morning.  Spent the entire day out there then hiked out in the dark.  Beautiful day out there. 

[clink]

climb Up the Buttress

One of the better names.

[mynameismud]

The route is a slab.  The name is Pet Rock Syndrome.  This came about from me petting the rock to get it to shed some if its lichen in order to get a better hold of it.  8 bolts or something, neither of us kept track of the bolt count.  Either Noal or both of us, most likely Noal, will go back and add anchor chains.  The route is about 120 feet.

As of yesterday (and today) I'm back "in status." For the fourth time I've reached a point where I've done every route at Pinnacles easier than 5.10.

Now this renewed claim rests on one assumption, one conversation with Mr Mud. I called him today, suspecting that he and Noal had finished their route yesterday. They did finish it. Obviously I haven't done it, it's too new. So I asked Dennis "how hard?" And he bit, he said "5.9 or 5.10a." That sealed it; by even mentioning the possibility that the route might be 10a, Dennis pretty much confirmed that it isn't 5.9 (anyone who isn't named Dennis - or Noal - disagree?). 

[F4?]

It would be nice to get some kind of feedback on Up the Buttress.  The bottom is probably 10a, maybe 10b.  The upper part off of the ledge is probably 5.9.   The upper part is kind of cool, steep balance moves with good feet follow the line up the buttress.  The lower part is a bit junky but has fun moves. 

Sounds nice, see he makes it sound like it's 5.7....

[mynameismud]

It goes up the slab.  Not a very good picture, starts where the lower part of the tree limbs come to the base of the slab.  Tops out on the ledge and goes to the top.  Will see if I happen to have a better pick.  I took this one in 2015.

[mynameismud]

Sounds nice, see he makes it sound like it's 5.7....

solid 5.7

[F4?]

I'll repeat, add bolts with Pink Hangers to the scary parts.

[mynameismud]

awesome

[JC w KC redux]

The route is a slab.  The name is Pet Rock Syndrome. 

Ch Ch Ch Chia Pet 

Did you guys ever finish Piggyback Relay Race?

[NOAL]

Pet Rock Syndrome

[Brad Young]

Noal,

Nice photo. Could you please email it to me at home so I can take it to the field when I go look for/climb the route.

[NOAL]

Will do.

[mynameismud]

Ch Ch Ch Chia Pet 

Did you guys ever finish Piggyback Relay Race?

Nope. 

[F4?]

The camera looks tilted.

[mynameismud]

yeah, I think he tilted the camera up...

[Brad Young]

yeah, I think he tilted the camera up...

  

[mudworm]

The camera looks tilted.

Where do you see the camera?

[Gavin]

Pet Rock Syndrome... That's a fun looking line.

Noal: if you'd like help banging in the anchors, let me know. While in the area I'd be interested in leading Up The Buttress too, and maybe checking out the harder line you guys put in nearby.

[mynameismud]

I recommend long slings for all of these routes.  At least for a few of the clips.

We will probably be up there tomorrow but the slab will probably be wet, it seems to take a bit longer to dry out.  Most likely not a really early start since tonight is patch night and I will be working late.