Author Topic: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting  (Read 338044 times)

NOAL

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #200 on: April 26, 2016, 01:21:07 PM »
I'm a left side in man myself.

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #201 on: April 26, 2016, 01:32:28 PM »
Poor alignment? Sorry dude.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #202 on: April 26, 2016, 01:54:26 PM »
JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #203 on: April 26, 2016, 01:59:37 PM »
JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto

or not
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #204 on: April 26, 2016, 02:03:38 PM »
Feel the love
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #205 on: April 26, 2016, 02:52:56 PM »

JC
You really need to check out Bushwhacking Dave and Beasto


Yeah. As soon as you've done every other route in the park, check these two out.

F4?

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #206 on: April 26, 2016, 06:19:46 PM »
Burp!
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #207 on: February 20, 2017, 11:21:58 AM »

Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given.  You kind of have to go for 1,000.  It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly.  You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this.



In January, 2015 I did my 900th route at Pinnacles (the first ascent of "Nine Hundred for the Lead"). It was a nice route, a great day, and a fantastic crowd of people.

Around the time of that ascent, Clink posted on this thread:

"We will let you catch up again at 1,000.
Fantastic gems in the rough, raw form. Right under our noses.
Good work by everybody, JC is a prize stance stallion, if only we could betting revenue$$$."

To say the least I was skeptical about ever reaching a lifetime total of 1,000 routes at Pinnacles (done in good style). I posted:

"I don't think 1,000 is ever going to happen. I'm too old and tired."

There were only slightly more than 1,000 routes at Pinnacles at that point in time. It had taken five years to get from 800 to 900 routes. And I couldn't imagine the amount of effort (and time!) it would take to add another 100 routes to my total.

Still, speculation can be fun. Dennis commented (in the quote box above):

"Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given.  You kind of have to go for 1,000.  It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly.  You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this."

Munge and others agreed. It seemed funny to even talk about the subject. But I also saw no reason to stop climbing at Pinnacles (I just didn't think there's be enough routes and enough time to reach that "magic" number).

Man was I wrong. New routes continue to go up (and old, unreported lines are still being found).

Last Sunday I put in a long day of climbing with Squiddo (and others). I reached a lifetime total of 999 Pinnacles routes. I'm ready to do route number 1,000 (it'll be another first ascent - the intended name is "A Grand Adventure").

This coming Friday (February 24th) several of us are going to start the route. We'll start one or two other first ascents nearby too. All of these intended routes should be pretty easy (my guess is three new 65 foot high routes in the 5.4 to 5.6 range).

We're hoping to finish A Grand Adventure (and other routes) on Saturday (February 25th). The idea is to do another mass ascent (the first ascent list for Nine Hundred for the Lead included 23 people).

Everyone is welcome. The intended routes are out past the reservoir, about a 45 minute hike from East Side parking. There are large, grassy flat areas and a beautiful creek very near the base of the formation.

We'll try to gather in the East Side parking lot at 8:30, and hike in from there. Bring a rope or some gear and food and water. Bring a rain shell too - the current prediction is for showers in the afternoon (if that changes for the worse we won't climb Saturday and will change to either the next day - Sunday, February 26th - or to the next dry weekend day after that).

Here's hoping that I can stay healthy until then and that the weather gives us the break we need.

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #208 on: February 20, 2017, 06:38:27 PM »
With the increase in rain, is the approach at risk of getting flooded out?

"a beautiful creek"

I'll be there. If we have 23 people again, that will be something. Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?

There's a limousine company called Le Grand Limousine in Santa Clara. Do we need to ride in style? ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #209 on: February 20, 2017, 09:24:38 PM »
With the increase in rain, is the approach at risk of getting flooded out?
"a beautiful creek"
I'll be there. If we have 23 people again, that will be something. Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?

Shouldn't be a problem.
Bring your pool noodle just in case.
One wheel shy of "normal"

F4?

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #210 on: February 20, 2017, 09:31:56 PM »
Sigh, Mr Mud was in the running to break 1000, but he lost his focus.

I kept saying, every weekend, 3                                                                                                                                                                  , 3 new routes a day, over 5 years.

And then he moves to Washington.

I am in the contention for the most repeats of the same routes over 30 years.
I'm not worthy.

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #211 on: February 20, 2017, 09:40:50 PM »

Maybe I need to bring 2 bottles to celebrate with?


And maybe that stretcher we talked about. Whatever that stuff was, it wasn't bad tasting. But man was it strong....

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #212 on: February 21, 2017, 08:01:31 AM »

I am in the contention for the most repeats of the same routes over 30 years.


I'm afraid you'll have to settle for second place. Gavin has done routes like Verdict hundreds of times (it's 1/4 mile from his house!).

I'm curious though - which three routes have you done the most times, and (ballpark) how many times have you done each route?

JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #213 on: February 21, 2017, 11:44:28 AM »
The day we met Brad, slightly more than 5 years ago (2-17-12)





Brad and waldo on 900 for the Lead


One wheel shy of "normal"

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #214 on: February 21, 2017, 01:16:11 PM »
great pic
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #215 on: February 21, 2017, 09:34:42 PM »
Quote
Gavin has done routes like Verdict hundreds


Maybe I could bribe Gavin to give me the beta to sending Verdict! 

Gavin, what's it going to take?  Jelly Donuts?  Guinness?  Licorice?  Bird feed? :) ;)


***assuming on your day off and no "bribes" in official capacities.




on topic, will this weather link suffice for 4casting?

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.19154217875238&lat=36.471428417922496#.WK0iQYWcGRs
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #217 on: February 21, 2017, 11:05:04 PM »
copy that.

"Saturday
A slight chance of rain. Partly sunny, with a high near 55."

watching

watching

watching

no change yet.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #218 on: February 22, 2017, 11:22:49 AM »
Records and numbers are fun. Those of us whose numbers don’t involve “13s” or “14s” (or even “12s”) can do impressive things with determination and skill. Here are a few other Pinnacles climbing records that I admire:

- Gavin for the most ascents of any one route (hundreds of ascents each as to several different routes that I know of);

- J.C. for (by far) the highest number of routes done at Pinnacles compared to amount of time climbed there (same too for highest number of first ascents compared to time climbing there);

- K.C. is, I'm pretty sure, the woman with the most routes done at Pinnacles “in good style” (in good style means led in redpoint or better style except as to routes that only exist as topropes and those done with no hangs or falls). She’s probably got this record by a large margin too. She’s also the woman involved in the most first ascents at Pinns (again, by a large margin)

- David Harden and Bruce Hildenbrand for the longest time span between Pinnacles first ascents. From memory, Harden’s first at Pinns was in 1974, Hildenbrand’s in 1975; both did FAs there in 2016 (Waldo is right in the running on this one too);

- Brian Hamilton (most of you know him) is the only person I’ve ever heard of who’s done more climbing routes at Pinnacle that are not in a guidebook than he has routes that are in a guidebook (and he’s up around 80 total routes done at the park);

-  David Rubine for the highest number of “stars” attached to routes in which he was a first ascent author (still true to this day - Clint put together a little program in the late 1990s that showed this to be true and I’m pretty sure it still is);

- Jim McConachie for the most number of first ascents with relatives (at least one FA there with each of four brothers). Clink could close in on or beat this; to my memory he’s done first ascents with two of his daughters, leaving room to move past Jim;

- Dennis “The Mud” has been a part of more first ascents of routes 5.10 and harder than anyone else in Pinnacles history (he may have spent more time than anyone else hanging on hooks there too).

I also tried to think of who might have the most stars compared to the number of first ascents they’ve participated in (excluding one-offs where someone participated in one or even just a very few highly starred routes). I have not come up with an answer to this one.

Also, who has taken (and survived - this part is critical) the longest fall at Pinns? I think I may have witnessed it (at the Yaks Wall in around 2004). This 45 to 60 foot fall could have been a lot longer if Ubergoober hadn't literally caught and slammed the falling climber against the wall at the belay ledge, thus cutting the fall length in half (there was no pro between the leader and the belay when he fell). Since this "enviable" record might be considered a little embarrassing, I'll leave names off.

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #219 on: February 22, 2017, 11:23:54 AM »
The day we met Brad, slightly more than 5 years ago (2-17-12)





Masterful Photoshop work J.C. The hole in the knee of my pants looks just like it was there in the original photo.