Author Topic: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting  (Read 337980 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #180 on: October 30, 2015, 03:17:38 PM »
If I broke The Nose, the whole climbing world would hate me. If I break your nose, well….

OK, we'll find some days (and it'll be my treat on the Geritol).

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #181 on: October 30, 2015, 03:27:12 PM »
If I broke The Nose, the whole climbing world would hate me.

This would change what?  : )
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #182 on: October 30, 2015, 03:34:40 PM »

This would change what?  : )


E.S.A.D.

(but L.O.L.).

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #183 on: October 30, 2015, 04:10:57 PM »
 8)
Here's to sweat in your eye

mj

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #184 on: November 01, 2015, 04:33:56 PM »

MJ, nice to see that you're getting out too. A new kid is an acceptable and fantastic reason for not having a long season. According to the weather prognosticators, you may have planned the birth date well - "Hell Nino" might force a short season on all of us (it certainly happened in '97/'98). If you've got any pull on the birth date, mine's December 22, which is pretty close to mid-December (and that's worked out pretty well for me!).


Due date is 12/21... if I convince the wife to wait an extra day, do I get a route named after the boy?



Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #185 on: November 01, 2015, 04:47:41 PM »

Due date is 12/21... if I convince the wife to wait an extra day, do I get a route named after the boy?


Sounds great! Will you insist on that extra day please? And then you and I can put up a route in his honor. But you'll have to name him Northwest Buttress, or South Face, or something like that  :o

The thought isn't unprecedented by the way. Roger and I actually took a similar step up here. Two summers ago, the Yosemite climbing ranger and his wife were staying with Roger and Robin so as to be close the the local birthing center. As Roger was leaving to come up and climb with me, their two guests were rushing off to the hospital (she'd started labor).

We ended up establishing a wonderful 5.11a face climb that day (three stars for sure). Roger suggested that we name it in honor of the newly born little girl. So there it is: Elora Wren 5.11a ***
 


Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #186 on: April 26, 2016, 07:25:48 AM »

Brad, now that you have broken 900, well not quite but this is a given.  You kind of have to go for 1,000.  It is only 100 routes and 5 or so of those will happen quickly.  You can take your time, but you kind of have to do this.


I'm done now with a fantastic 2015/2016 Pinnacles season. Although it apparently snowed here at our house for an hour and a half yesterday, none of it stuck to the ground. The days are getting longer and the Sierra is right here. I've got to stop for a while.

As the season has come to an end, I've realized that my skepticism about Mr Mud's comment (quoted above) might have been misplaced. Very misplaced. Lots of things could happen, but I now think it is likely that I will eventually reach a lifetime total of  1,000 Pinnacles routes done in good style. It's hard to believe.

In fact, Mud's comment that "5 of those will happen quickly" seems highly ironic at this point. I don't think any of us saw coming this new route "renaissance" we've been in. So many Pinnacles climbers have been putting up so many new routes (and having so much fun doing it)! And the combinations of climbers who've been working together! Very, very few of the first ascentionists who have been the most active in the last two years have not done an FA with each of the other first ascentionists who've been most active during that time. Many others haven't been highly active on first ascents, but have joined with more experienced climbers for a taste of the excitement and (ground up) adventure.

It's also interesting to me that, even with a large number of routes going up, the proportion of them that are of low, medium and high quality is about the same as the proportion in the 2007 guidebook. Discovery and exploration continue. Whole new formations and sub-areas now have routes. There are several climbers out there each of whom has a really "good eye for a line."

So with a touch of sadness that I won't be down there for a while but with anticipation of more seasons to come, here are my current statistics:

-  I've done 952 Pinnacles routes in good style (defined as a redpoint or better lead unless the route only exists as a toprope);

-  As of late yesterday (and thanks to J.C. for spending the day with me) I'm back into the status of having done every single route at Pinnaces that is easier than 5.10. I suspect that, with wet weather coming in, this status might last as long as two weeks this time  8)

-  The 2015/2016 season was the first Pinnacles season in 32 in which every Pinnacles route I climbed that was new to me was not in any guidebook!

I now hope to see all of you up here for some granite climbing soon (yes, even you berserk fanatics who climb at Pinnacles year round).


JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #187 on: April 26, 2016, 07:54:55 AM »
Nice wrap up.

signed,

the screaming banshee  ;D :-\ :-[ >:( :D
One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #188 on: April 26, 2016, 08:10:56 AM »
My granite season is almost done. Time for Pinns!!!  ;)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #189 on: April 26, 2016, 08:14:22 AM »
Nacho libre por supuesto.
Causing trouble when not climbing.

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #190 on: April 26, 2016, 08:21:25 AM »

My granite season is almost done. Time for Pinns!!!  ;)


I'll be talking to Tim today about an intervention.

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #191 on: April 26, 2016, 08:23:01 AM »

signed,

the screaming banshee  ;D :-\ :-[ >:( :D


That wasn't so much a scream as it was a long, sustained, high-pitched grunt   :o

clink

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #192 on: April 26, 2016, 08:26:59 AM »
Did JC have to make an improvised loin cloth out of the rope bag and a sling to hike out in?
Causing trouble when not climbing.

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #193 on: April 26, 2016, 09:01:55 AM »
Congratulations on the quality year. 
Here's to sweat in your eye

JC w KC redux

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #194 on: April 26, 2016, 09:02:17 AM »
Did JC have to make an improvised loin cloth out of the rope bag and a sling to hike out in?

We don't carry rope bags - I think I may have one stored in the garage - with my chalk bag  ;D :D ;D
One wheel shy of "normal"

Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #195 on: April 26, 2016, 09:35:36 AM »

Nacho libre por supuesto.


Nicht verstehen  ::)

NOAL

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #196 on: April 26, 2016, 11:55:31 AM »
Quote
That wasn't so much a scream as it was a long, sustained, high-pitched grunt

chimney sounds?


Brad Young

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #197 on: April 26, 2016, 12:01:44 PM »

chimney sounds?


Yes, squeeze chimney sounds. He did a great job. Other sounds from just after that lead included:

-  "I'm going to kill them," and

-  (In a snide, irritated, imitating tone of voice) "You can't fall out of a squeeze chimney."


NOAL

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #198 on: April 26, 2016, 12:07:00 PM »
Bwahaha :devildevil:

mynameismud

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Re: Pinnacles Climbing: 30 Years and Counting
« Reply #199 on: April 26, 2016, 12:51:24 PM »
"You can't fall out of a squeeze chimney."

this is true

The good thing is it goes left side in
Here's to sweat in your eye