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Author Topic: See you in the High Peaks  (Read 4880 times)

JC w KC redux

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See you in the High Peaks
« on: November 03, 2013, 09:56:45 AM »
Fabulous Day at Tuff Dome yesterday

JC onsights Tuff Dome Reg Rte Direct Start 5.7





KC, April and James following the Tuff Dome route





From Tuff Dome Summit - can't top this!





KC led H&L’s Reg Rte 5.5***





KC follows Stepping Stone 5.9





View of April and James on Rock Steady taken by JC from Stepping Stone summit


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Brad Young

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2013, 10:42:35 AM »
You actually led Stepping Stone? Wow, that's likely the fourth ascent. Gavin and I each led it (with only one lead bolt) the day we put it up, and then he led it again the day we added the second lead bolt and the second top anchor bolt.

How'd you like it? I'll bet you agree with the no stars rating (but it was so obvious a line to the top of a then-unclimbed summit that it had to be done).
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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2013, 12:10:41 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on November 03, 2013, 10:42:35 AM
You actually led Stepping Stone? Wow, that's likely the fourth ascent. Gavin and I each led it (with only one lead bolt) the day we put it up, and then he led it again the day we added the second lead bolt and the second top anchor bolt.

How'd you like it? I'll bet you agree with the no stars rating (but it was so obvious a line to the top of a then-unclimbed summit that it had to be done).

Agreed no stars. Definitely needs some cleaning up. Very committing stepping off the "stone". I spent a considerable amount of time choosing and testing holds. That joy knob is nice. Everybody else did it on TR. Kat agreed 5.9. April fell at the first crux after pulling off a small hand hold and thought it was harder than 9 but she is a newbie - only her 2nd time outside. James said he thought it was on the easy side of 9 but he was using a few holds that no way I would have trusted on lead - I was surprised they held. I think that because the route was already cleaned, he may have stepped up a bit left of the intended line - one that might not make sense on lead (too far left of the 2nd bolt). Thought-provoking and well protected with some intermittent choss wrangling.
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Atomizer

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2013, 01:42:23 PM »
It's cool to see that people still climb in the High Peaks. So old school...
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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2013, 03:02:29 PM »
Quote from: Atomizer on November 13, 2013, 01:42:23 PM
It's cool to see that people still climb in the High Peaks. So old school...

the older the better bro' :)
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Atomizer

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #5 on: November 13, 2013, 03:44:55 PM »
I'm just jealous. You climb so much cool stuff.

You are turning into the new Go-Go, pretty soon you'll take that crown from Joe.
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F4?

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2013, 05:04:44 PM »
Where is Go-Go Joe?

Did he take that modeling job?
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Atomizer

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2013, 11:17:44 AM »
Quote
Did he take that modeling job?

Yes, he was my instagram model last weekend.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2013, 05:43:37 PM »
Quote from: Atomizer on November 13, 2013, 03:44:55 PM
I'm just jealous. You climb so much cool stuff.

You are turning into the new Go-Go, pretty soon you'll take that crown from Joe.

Dude - you could climb this stuff too :)

I doubt I'll ever take Joe's crown...probably never be able to pull down that hard AND I prefer a shirt!...Brad referred to me as a Master of Mud - that's all I've ever wanted :0
Well...that and a few FA's so my name will go down in history somewhere - may likely be my only legacy...   
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MUCCI

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2013, 10:06:21 PM »

Quote
may likely be my only legacy...   


In my mind, you have already created your legacy at pinnacles.

Barring the impressive quantity of onsight leads, you and KC have captured the essence of pinnacles history. 

Plus, the orange shirt is a legacy in and of it's own ;D
 

 
 
 
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mungeclimber

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2013, 08:55:17 AM »
Seriously, I don't know anyone else that climbs there as many days per year as you do. Plus you take pics of all the choss.





you sure you don't need a shrink?
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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2013, 10:37:31 AM »
Quote from: MUCCI on November 14, 2013, 10:06:21 PM
In my mind, you have already created your legacy at pinnacles.

Quote from: mungeclimber on November 15, 2013, 08:55:17 AM
Seriously, I don't know anyone else that climbs there as many days per year as you do. Plus you take pics of all the choss. you sure you don't need a shrink?

Nice. Yes, I admit I have a problem - that's the first step right?

Sometimes I wonder what the hell I am doing when we're driving in...should be perfect weather this weekend :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #12 on: November 15, 2013, 10:42:54 AM »
There's choss up high too, maybe next year...

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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #13 on: November 15, 2013, 12:06:07 PM »
Quote from: mungeclimber on November 15, 2013, 10:42:54 AM
There's choss up high too, maybe next year...

The Window Pain looks nice :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #14 on: November 15, 2013, 12:32:46 PM »
can't say I recommend it, but it's a must do.
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Brad Young

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #15 on: November 15, 2013, 12:48:59 PM »
Quote from: mungeclimber on November 15, 2013, 12:32:46 PM
can't say I recommend it, but it's a must do.

I've done Window Pain. I've also had two root canals. Root canals are like Window Pain in that they are also must-dos.
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JC w KC redux

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #16 on: November 15, 2013, 12:54:03 PM »
Quote from: Brad Young on November 15, 2013, 12:48:59 PM
I've done Window Pain. I've also had two root canals. Root canals are like Window Pain in that they are also must-dos.

I've done window pane and had one root canal :)
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mungeclimber

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2013, 03:09:51 PM »
lol
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Brad Young

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #18 on: November 15, 2013, 04:17:44 PM »
We're straying from topic, but J.C. started the thread and started the straying.

Before I led Window Pain I thought to myself: "How could Robert be so stupid and lazy as to not put in an anchor at the top of the formation?" (Keep in mind that the second pitch tops out on the formation - the pitch is 5.5 or so - and then one down-climbs the same rock, back to the end of the first pitch, and a bolted anchor there).

Then I led the climb. I got to the top of the formation. While there my thoughts went like this: "holy God I'm glad Robert didn't try to put bolts in this thing - two hammer blows and this whole thing would collapse."

I carefully down-climbed.
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F4?

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Re: See you in the High Peaks
« Reply #19 on: November 15, 2013, 07:38:34 PM »
Or farted?
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