It was time to make a trip to the Sierra. We’ve been meaning to get the new book out and put it to use but KC has been super busy at work. She finally had a day she could take away from the grind, so we headed out Friday morning a little later than we wanted and got up to the parking area at Herring Creek Road about 2:30. We were on the trail at 3:00.
We had driven part way up to HCD on Memorial Day 2012 - our first time up to see Brad and climb in the area. That trip got snowed out and we actually bailed and ended up at the Pinns for the remainder of the weekend.
Now I knew the approach would take us longer than what was listed (it always does), but we did pretty good for our first time in this area. We only walked a short distance beyond the two cutoffs before realizing the mistake and heading back. The use trail up through the meadow is clear in some sections and faint in others – easy to lose. It is the same way once you start up the slope at the edge of the forest. We were surprised at how warm it was but still a helluva lot cooler than Pinns.
Once at the base of the west face we started scouring it for anchors and were able to pick them out pretty quickly. We walked left up past the far right side and spotted the bolts on Jenn’s hooked and then Sea of T (our goal for the afternoon). I enjoyed the solid layback start. After clipping bolt 1, I was glad I am used to runout - seeing how far it was to # 2. I definitely enjoyed p1 the most. I think I got an alien in at the end of the flake/corner before the last bolt and worked my way up to the sweet ledge. The ledge appears to be the result of differential weathering of a pegmatite feldspar dike (nerd!). KC followed swiftly and I set off on p2. I should have changed into my approach shoes. In retrospect we both thought KC should have led p2. No worries. This route is worth repeating. P3 went smoothly but I was a little uncertain if I built the anchor at the intended spot. I saw but didn’t sling the knob on p3 and was definitely below a series of overlapping roofs aimed at the right facing corner above. I built the anchor under a sturdy flake with a #2 and #1(camalots) and a gray alien. I pre placed a .75 camalot and red alien in the crack below the start of the roofs in a horizontal and equalized them with a sling – I know…overkill…but I was ready to take off on lead as soon as KC got there. I was feeling a bit pressed for time. The LOLR through the roofs never felt like 5.6…maybe I was just too fired up to notice. I was at the top before long and used a sling on a keyed in chockstone behind a huge boulder for my last belay. It was so low angle that KC walked up the last long section. We wrapped up and started the walkoff. Everything went smoothly back to the main trail. We had been hearing a lot of gunfire during our climb. As we got closer to the bridge, we realized the sound seemed to be coming in our direction. At a lull I yelled loudly to announce us. Some of the group members heard us and shouted at the rest to continue the cease fire. There was a group of about 20 college age kids with weapons of all types shooting trees, logs and clay pigeons. Debris and shell casings were strewn all over the scene. We chatted with them briefly about our adventure. Once back at the parking area the shooting resumed while we made dinner and enjoyed some libation. We were awakened in the middle of the night when the shooting resumed (after midnight) and continued for maybe an hour or so. They were shining bright lights and shooting up into the air. Nice.
We were up about 7:30 and back on the trail around 9:00. Our goal for the day was to work right to left along the west face. We managed to onsight Grandmas, Grandpas, Mamas, Papas and The Teacher. I wanted to do Jenn’s Hooked too, but we were pooped by the time the Teacher was done. It was a warm day but not uncomfortably so. I placed about 5 bomber pieces on The Teacher and slung the horn where the chimney meets the corner. There was a piece of red webbing with a rap ring up behind that junction too – maybe a bail setup? I deep slotted a bomber large nut before leaving the corner and running out the easy slab to the belay flake. It looked like you could set an anchor below the flake with medium to large cams, but I went up, over and around the other/upper side where a slanted ledge and smaller crack was more comfortable and secure. I placed a .5 + a red and gray alien for the belay anchor. When I told Brad later that I wasn’t sure what gear I should save to build the anchor, he informed me that he has never used a rope on the route. KC was still feeling a bit spooked about the class 3 slab walk off, so we stayed roped up until it got really mellow lower down the “ledge”. There are still lots of climbs we want to return and do. I’d like to eventually climb just about everything else on the dome.
There was a brief period of gunfire early, but no more for the rest for the day. All the debris and shell casings were still there when we walked through. We headed out and had dinner with the Youngs and the Nilssons. Good food and great company. Brad and Alan had exhausted themselves on some projects at the Missing Man Formation – I’ll let Brad tell that story another time...
KC nears the p1 anchor on Sea of Tranquility
JC on the stairs – p4 Sea of Tranquility
Top of the Sea
JC at one of the many great gear placing stances on The Teacher
