Author Topic: Dreams of Icarus  (Read 287999 times)

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #100 on: November 19, 2013, 08:15:59 PM »

Lol. Brad was calling my Totems "Trangos" all weekend.


Goddammit, I can't get that straight. Hell, with age 53 coming up here fast, I suppose we should all be happy that I can even recall your name...

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #101 on: November 19, 2013, 08:17:25 PM »
And I am bringing the crash pad next time.

squiddo

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #102 on: November 19, 2013, 08:44:27 PM »
lol happens to is all brad
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
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mynameismud

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #103 on: November 19, 2013, 09:14:29 PM »
excellent.  a poop story that always means the climbing is good.
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #104 on: November 19, 2013, 09:16:53 PM »
short shorts were the missing item!


too cold for that, no?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

cobbledik

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #105 on: November 20, 2013, 02:44:21 PM »
Nay! We were smart ones and so no one was wet and hypothermic up on tha machete!

E is the correct answer thanks for playing! As a parting gift, you get to lead pitch 2!

Atomizer

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #106 on: November 20, 2013, 04:02:15 PM »
So the real question is, will this thing go free?

I spotted a new line last weekend. Chances are John Bolte and I will bolt it this weekend. I can't tell you where... Munge will say it's his.

squiddo

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #107 on: November 20, 2013, 04:03:58 PM »
Munge says its all his. And if it isn't its aid
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Every climb gets 3 stars from me until I climb it.
-Anonymous spirited climber

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #108 on: November 20, 2013, 04:30:01 PM »

So the real question is, will this thing go free?


No.

If you don't believe me, it's fairly easy to get up to the base of the second, bolt-ladder pitch. From below you can see that that section is pretty darn steep, and the rock quality there is so-so. And keep in mind that my opinion of the rock quality isn't based on one ascent. I've led that bolt ladder three times, and Kevin and I have replaced 2/3 of its bolts (and because of the replacement bolts my third lead of it was sporty instead of being "if one bolt pulls out right here I might die" terrifying).

The only other part of the route that doesn't already go free is the A3 half-pitch, and I think most of that would go free. There's a really steep headwall halfway up it that might not though, it's hard to tell.

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #109 on: November 20, 2013, 04:35:13 PM »
Here are two photos Kevin sent me of the lower part of that bolt ladder. They'll give you an idea what it looks like: (although seeing it in person would be the real proof). This overhanging part of Machete is totally unlike the hard, but free sections of Machete Direct - at least on those there's enough quality rock to work with, and those free sections are relatively short:





Atomizer

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #110 on: November 20, 2013, 05:33:16 PM »
OMG that looks gnar.

Where are the short shorts? I guess that if you have pants you need to balance that out by using really thin aiders.

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #111 on: November 20, 2013, 06:06:15 PM »
OMG that looks gnar.

Where are the short shorts? I guess that if you have pants you need to balance that out by using really thin aiders.

Those are my lightweight aiders - adequate for a 50 foot bolt ladder.

And it was too cold for short shorts. Vicki told me that someone who I'd climbed with the day before had the gall to call these long leggers my "Swiss Cheese" pants (on Bookface).

cobbledik

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #112 on: November 20, 2013, 06:22:05 PM »
I liked those pants.

and if it's aid, it's mine.

Atomizer

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #113 on: November 20, 2013, 10:33:46 PM »
Quote
Swiss Cheese" pants (on Bookface).

Get it straight, Its called "Facecrack"

Brad, I like you no matter what you are wearing.

Brad Young

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #114 on: November 20, 2013, 10:43:05 PM »

Brad, I like you no matter what you are wearing.


Thanks... I think  :D

mynameismud

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #115 on: November 21, 2013, 12:06:47 AM »
Atom, it will go
Here's to sweat in your eye

cobbledik

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #116 on: November 21, 2013, 03:37:12 PM »
pulled a screenshot of one of my camhook placements on pitch 2 of Premuditated.


mungeclimber

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #117 on: November 21, 2013, 05:03:56 PM »
https://vimeo.com/8305166

MIG TIG THAT SHIZ!
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #118 on: November 21, 2013, 05:08:32 PM »
pulled a screenshot of one of my camhook placements on pitch 2 of Premuditated.

That's a giant oatmeal cookie propped up against the cliff right?
I think I can see some raisins and maybe white chocolate chunks...
One wheel shy of "normal"

mungeclimber

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Re: Dreams of Icarus
« Reply #119 on: November 21, 2013, 06:03:51 PM »
Good thing I'm eating dinner.
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge