Author Topic: Dreams of Icarus (Read 270143 times)

cobbledik · « **on:** December 03, 2012, 09:52:37 PM »

With the lady in Utah and the freeze coming into the valley, it looks like lonely pinnacles aid soloist is back in business.

I'm thinking of heading up to aid-solo Icarus this weekend. My main goal is to see if pitch three will go clean. No rack info in the book so I'll go with the usual thin and arrow selection but hopefully there's a way to leave the hammer and iron in the tag bag.

Wish me luck

mynameismud · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2012, 09:57:25 PM »

I am fairly sure it will go free. There are places for small aliens. Will be bold.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #2 on:** December 03, 2012, 10:04:25 PM »

Kev, a bunch of us mudheads will be down this weekend. Don't be a stranger. My Limes are your limes. I'll probably be over near premuditated.

cobbledik · « **Reply #3 on:** December 04, 2012, 09:01:13 PM »

I'll keep an eye out for you guys.

Brad Young · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2012, 06:29:12 PM »

Kevin, this route is very, very high on my list (I've done Sons of the West, but not clean on the 5.11, and have not done the parts of Icarus that don't coincide with it). I was going to try to get on it with Mucci this season.

If you don't get it, or if you don't get it clean, would you be willing to climb it again on the following weekend? I'll try to get Josh in on this too. Josh, are you reading this? Could you make it?

BTW, the free climbing on the first pitch is spicy, as, I expect, will be the free portion of the second pitch (I've seen it from close up, but haven't led it.. The "V" slot part of the third pitch is pretty darn physical too.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2012, 06:54:44 PM »

hahaha, poor guy, not enough that he has to get on it, but now you're asking him to get on it again?

oh Brad.

- but hey, maybe it will be classic and worth a second trip up!!

mynameismud · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2012, 07:32:22 PM »

With the rains it might be a bit damp.

cobbledik · « **Reply #7 on:** December 06, 2012, 07:47:11 AM »

I think I'd be willing to climb it again (as long as I don't hate it) and chances are that once I pass (hopefully) the crux aid pitch I'll rap because summits don't mean a whole lot to me when i'm soloing. Returning for the full route might be cool with a partner. Dixie will be leave for a North Carolina trip after that weekend but I think she'd be keen to spend one of the days at the Pinnacles so I'll talk to her about that. Maybe I'll entice her with dreams of BLL...lol...blech

I'll have my silent partner in full effect so whooha for spicy damp climbing. Blech. So I'm assuming I should not attempt the free climbing in my approach shoes? double blech.

cobbledik · « **Reply #8 on:** December 06, 2012, 07:49:00 AM »

Also Brad, I can't remember offhand, have you guys led the full center arch aid line on Machete yet? I know you asked me to hold off so you guys to get on it after you did the work to restore it, but can't remember if i saw anything later about that happening.

Brad Young · « **Reply #9 on:** December 06, 2012, 08:16:19 AM »

No, we didn't get back last spring (and thanks for holding off). Get on it if you want. I plan on doing it after the closures this season.

cobbledik · « **Reply #10 on:** December 06, 2012, 09:59:34 AM »

I'm not planning on the arch anytime soon, but have in on my list after the one you told me about with the hundred micro ballnut placements over a death fall of sharks with lasers on their freaking heads. (I might have made it sound more threatening in my head over the course of time.

mungeclimber · « **Reply #11 on:** December 06, 2012, 10:58:46 AM »

Need some Trango Ball Nutz? Was thinking about selling mine. The BW forum guys almost have me convinced to hold onto them. gah!

Brad Young · « **Reply #12 on:** December 06, 2012, 11:20:50 AM »

You're both nuts. That roof isn't going clean. It will take Knifeblades driven straight up; at the outside edge it'll take some Lost Arrows. Ask Mucci, he's been on it. Ball nuts will look pretty on your rack, that's all.

cobbledik · « **Reply #13 on:** December 06, 2012, 11:43:19 AM »

I have ballnuts Munge, hate'em.

I'm not talking about the roof for the ballnuts, I was talking about Jingus.

Brad Young · « **Reply #14 on:** December 06, 2012, 11:51:13 AM »

Quote from: cobbledik on December 06, 2012, 11:43:19 AM

I have ballnuts Munge, hate'em.

I'm not talking about the roof for the ballnuts, I was talking about Jingus.

That makes more sense. Sorry to second-guess you.

Jingus is pretty cool in that the moves go from ball nuts to a #4.5 Camalot.

mynameismud · « **Reply #15 on:** December 06, 2012, 02:29:47 PM »

If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.

squiddo · « **Reply #16 on:** December 06, 2012, 04:29:05 PM »

Quote from: My Name is Mud on December 06, 2012, 02:29:47 PM

If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.

Munge does.......he will trade for BLL

F4? · « **Reply #17 on:** December 06, 2012, 04:39:38 PM »

Quote

If someone has a set of ball nuts they want to sell let me know. Really like using them.

Oh no, he's lost his nuts again!

Atomizer · « **Reply #18 on:** December 06, 2012, 07:11:57 PM »

I'll purchase the ballnuts. Munge, they're worthless hand them over!

F4? · « **Reply #19 on:** December 06, 2012, 08:57:51 PM »

Quote

Munge does.......he will trade for BLL

BLL isn't that bad..

News:

Author Topic: Dreams of Icarus (Read 270143 times)