Author Topic: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)  (Read 26423 times)

mungeclimber

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On a whim I put a couple of these together when someone asked me what they should climb at Pinnacles for their first time there. This was several years ago.

Pinnacles Tours  
These are just collections of routes I've put together as a 'select menu' for what some folks may want to hit.
Pinnacles is a dangerous place to climb. You do so at your own risk, regardless of what is described here.

East Side
"Beginner's Tour" - Hit these if you want to hit the main classic east side easier climbs.  

Rat Race - 5.7
Thrill Hammer - 5.8
Ordeal - 5.8
Swallow's Crack -5.6
Portent -5.6
Direct Route - Monolith 5.6
First Sister - 5.5-5.7
Nodal Line -5.6 R
Mr. Hugh G. Rection -5.8
*May want to reverse the order though and start at the top and work your way back to go from easiest to hardest.

"Moderate Plus Tour"  

The above climbs, and add the following
The Wet Kiss - 5.9
Nailbox Crack - 5.8 to bolt belay
Jorgies Crack - 5.10a (first pitch. essentially a short crux section)
Stupendous Man -5.10a (pumpier with mantle crux too)
Limp at Last - 5.9
Wet Willie - 5.10a
Terranean Tango -5.10a (which is just a short version of Subterranean Tango)
Coyote Ugly - 5.9
Sound Chaser - 10a

"Moderate often overlooked lines tour"

NE Corner of Monolith -5.7
Piton Traverse Monolith - 5.5
When in doubt, run it out - 5.7 R/X (unless as a TR)
Japanese Water Torture - 5.7 R (unless as a TR)
"Looking for a Clue" - 5.7 R/X (unless as a TR)
Side Saddle - 5.7
West Face 4th Sister - 5.5



West Side

"Beginner's Tour" - Hit these if you want to hit the main classic west side easier climbs.  

The Big Bad West - 5.4
Passion Play - 5.7
Elephant Crack - 5.7
Costanoan - 5.4 (multi pitch)
Rebecca's Sailing - 5.8
Tilting Terrace first pitch to "Cool Daze" 5.8
Crowley Tower #5 - second class route
Smiling Simian - 5.8
Sombrero - 5.8
Chockstone Dome - 5.3 to 5.7
Twinkle Toes Traverse - 5.5
Dos Equis - 5.8
Corona - 5.6
Old Original - 5.5 (multi pitch - high adventure quotient)



High Peaks

From the East Side Moderate tour of the High Peaks -  

The Carousel (as a TR area for novices, otherwise just do the boulder problem called "A Trip to the Fair"
The Anvil 5.4 (if only for it's novel shape)
Pipsqueak Pinnacle - 5.5 and 5.8
The Unmentionable - 5.7
Photographer's Delight - 5.2
Flatiron - Regular Route 5.4 A1 or 10a
The Sponge 5.2 or 5.6, then TR the "Holes" route 5.6
Burgundy Dome Rappel Route 5.7 (but short)
Tuff Dome Regular Route 5.6
H & L Dome Regular Route 5.5
Bynum Spire Regular Route 5.2 and Rock Steady - 5.7
Dragon Fly Dome Regular Route 5.6 R
Cinder 5.7
Don Genaros Waterfall 5.4 (if it is dry, and you have time after doing the above)
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

JC w KC redux

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2012, 08:29:42 PM »
Want some unsolicited feedback?
If you are going by theme I'd separate by trad, bolted or mixed.
Many of the ratings are not current.
I don't think 5.10 is moderate and in many cases in my limited experience neither is 5.9
Definitely include the Regular Route on the Monolith.
Is beginner aimed at beginning climbers or just Pinns newbies?
The reason I ask is some of those beginner routes are pretty tough.
I love the Bullseye Derringer linkup for another multi pitch.
Alias Bandit Bench to Redline is another nice linkup.


One wheel shy of "normal"

F4?

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2012, 09:24:19 PM »
Say Mungie, these are great lists...

Add in a few more to the high peaks...
Piglet Pinnacle
St Val Mass
Egg Dome
Burgendy Rappel route
I'm not worthy.

JC w KC redux

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2012, 10:05:33 PM »
Say Mungie, these are great lists...

Add in a few more to the high peaks...
Piglet Pinnacle
St Val Mass
Egg Dome
Burgendy Rappel route


Burgundy's on there.

Piglet? Why would you want to tell them about the best climb in the Monument?

Depending on your mood (evil grin) tell or don't that the start of St Val is a sandbag!

Which route(s) on Egg?

Where are the captions for your photos brah?
One wheel shy of "normal"

mynameismud

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2012, 10:20:56 PM »
The Exhibitionist
Gutter
Pistol Whipped
Gladiator
Nailbox Crack
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Hard Variation
Hawaiian Noises
Blister in the Sun
The Gag
Here's to sweat in your eye

mungeclimber

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2012, 10:28:26 PM »
The Exhibitionist
Gutter
Pistol Whipped
Gladiator
Nailbox Crack
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Hard Variation
Hawaiian Noises
Blister in the Sun
The Gag

I'd guess the 'theme' of that grouping is 5.10s that are challenging, but Nailbox doesn't fit the theme, does it?
On Aid at Pinns... It's all A1 til it crumbles. - Munge

CruxLuv

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2012, 10:48:43 AM »

Pinnacles Tours  


Dude - you read my mind.  Love it!

Printing...
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

mynameismud

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2012, 10:54:20 AM »
The Theme was kinda cool routes in a popular area that do not get a lot of traffic.  The routes are all some what bold or have a challenging section.  Routes are in order as you hike along the trail.  I guess Hard Variation does not really fit.  

Like your theme. I will modify/create the list for that theme.

EDIT:
Gladiator is also 5.11
Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2012, 11:23:52 AM »
Challenging 5.10  Tour staying primarily in the Gulch but with a hike up the creek.
Wild Berry Crack
Pistol Whipped
Heat Seeking Moisture Missile
Rocket in my Pocket
Hawaiian Noises
Blister on the Sun
The Gag
Get a Grip
Love Line
Carpal Tunnel
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2012, 03:42:38 PM »
We used to talk about a "date" tour....so maybe you start at we Kiss?
then you end at POD or Denied...

Really honey all the climbs are named like this...honestly
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Brad Young

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2012, 05:30:49 PM »

We used to talk about a "date" tour....so maybe you start at we Kiss?
then you end at POD or Denied...


Now that's pretty damn clever.

mynameismud

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #11 on: November 27, 2012, 06:07:50 PM »
or maybe end at SOB
Here's to sweat in your eye

Brad Young

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #12 on: November 27, 2012, 06:12:18 PM »
Both of you must be presupposing that the "date tour" includes a visit with or by a certain 5.8 which is located at The Back Door?

CruxLuv

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #13 on: November 27, 2012, 06:43:35 PM »
Both of you must be presupposing that the "date tour" includes a visit with or by a certain 5.8 which is located at The Back Door?

More like the 5.10c -
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.

F4?

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #14 on: November 27, 2012, 07:27:50 PM »
And why all of these names??? Really some insight is needed...even JimMC is guilty...so there has to be a theme.
I'm not worthy.

mynameismud

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Here's to sweat in your eye

mynameismud

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #16 on: November 27, 2012, 07:57:31 PM »
And why all of these names??? Really some insight is needed...even JimMC is guilty...so there has to be a theme.

yeah it is called the climbing mind
Here's to sweat in your eye

F4?

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #17 on: November 27, 2012, 08:09:42 PM »
My virgin mind does not get it.

Must have been an 80's thing.
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Atomizer

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #18 on: November 28, 2012, 07:44:13 AM »
5.11 Eastside Roundup
Terranean Tango 5.10b
POD 5.11a
Foreplay 5.11b
Feed The Beast 5.11c
Deapoint 5.11a
Love Handles 5.11d
Sunwheel 5.11b
Melvin 5.11b
Between a Rock and a Hard Place 5.11b
Lithium 5.11b
Verdict 5.11b
Cosmos 5.11c

5.12
Tailspin 5.12a
Futureshock 5.12b
Cataract 5.12a
Druid 5.12b
Ranger Bolts 5.12a
Punguin Handshake 5.12a/b
Vigilante 5.12c
Hard as a Rock 5.12b
Tarantula 5.12?
Trial 5.12c
Forty Days of Rain 5.12c

The Original Eastside Mega Linkup, ten .10s and eleven .11s
Terranean Tango 5.10a
Hawaiian Noises 5.10c
POD 5.11a
Foreplay 5.11b
Richnak's Revenge 5.11a
Hard Variation 5.10c
Feed the Beast 5.11c
Cantalope Death 5.10c
Rocket in my Pocket 5.10d
Sunwheel 5.11b
Black Dagger 5.11d
Pearl Sheath 5.10b
Deadpoint 5.11a
Deadpoint 5.11d/10d
Stupendous Man 5.10a
Verdict 5.11b
Broken Arrow 5.10d
Cosmos 5.11c
Denied 5.10d
Pickpocket 5.11a
Angstroms Away 5.10a


CruxLuv

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Re: "Tours" (aka groupings of recommended climbs by theme or difficulties)
« Reply #19 on: November 28, 2012, 08:26:02 AM »
How's about a list called "Training Wheels" for the 5.0-5.3 routes. 
The "best" climber is the one having the most fun.