I am supportive of what was done on the new route West of the Sun. I think they pushed the envelope. The option to rap bolt the entire route was there and some thought that a decent idea, but instead they pushed it as far as they could. Farther than anyone else has. And when I say it, I mean bolting from the ground up. No else has consistently pushed the limits of ground up bolting. Whether people like it or not Karl is the standard. The only thing I do not like about Karl is there was a point in time when I thought I could lead (at least red point) every ground up bolted free route at the Pins. Karl went and screwed that up. Gorillas is the hardest 12 that I have been on at the Pins and I have been all but a couple of the 12's. Think about it, there are not that many of them.
Karl rated West of the Sun 13d, knowing his routes and puttering around on them I will state that Karl rates conservatively. So I venture to say that route is bordering on the realm of the 14's. To me that is pushing the envelope of adventure. I would have liked to see them run it out more but then hey, who am I to say run out that 13+. I have a hard enough time doing it on 10a.
Part of what has always been desired at the Pins is adventure. Part of the argument for ground up is adventure and limited resources. The style implemented on West of the Sun insures both. I also do not like the bolts that go to no where. At the upper limit I think it does not hurt to rap in a take a look. From what I have heard the unfinished routes on the back side of the Monolith will go and I think they will. It is a matter of the right person and the right time. I am not big on previewing moves. I know a fine line but a line indeed.
On the topic of hard routes on rock other than the Monolith. 11's yes, they are still out there and at the grade good climbers can do some crazy stuff. The lines are there. 12's somewhat limited. I have not been everywhere in the park but I have been around a bit and at this grade the options for ground up bolted stuff is limited but they are there. Hooking at this level becomes problematic. With 11's you can hook on crap and make it work since there is plenty of stuff around and/or it is bigger. There is always the option of pounding the tip of your nut tool into the rock, slinging it, and bolting off that (It works I have done it). 12's and higher mean less and smaller which also means the rock needs to be harder. At the 13+ and 14 level there really are not a lot of options especially if the routes are bolted ground up.
I do not have a problem with the desire for hard routes. Always like watching people work them. Get frustrated scream, curse, get thoroughly worked, physically mentally spent. Then one day succeed. The whole thing is awesome. I enjoy watching that same experience at the 5.5 level. I am trying to mellow and realize there has to be compromise. This has to be done at every level, and with all styles. I know I have been a bit of a hot head and at time can be polarizing. I am trying to get better and to a certain degree being in a position where I cannot climb has helped. It has made me stand back and look at what I have done.
This is what bothers me with Straight up. There was no compromise. They did what they wanted to do and the heck with everyone else. With West of the Sun there was compromise. They pushed the envelop and stuck to the standard of the area for all that they were worth. If the hangers are not aesthetic, rap in and paint them. There is room for bolt ladders at the Pins. I know where I want someone to put one in so I can go get the lead
But the Monolith is not the place. There is a lot of crappy hidden rock where someone can have an adventure and put in a bolt ladder then pull the bolts if they so desire. And in 5 years only a couple of people will know it happened. If it is done real well it might even become popular.
Lastly, yes someone please go out and free The Great Spectacular. It needs it, yes this route needs the love. The fall when the closures have lifted is a good time do eeettttt.
Here's to sweat in your eye
My Name is Mud
