Climbing Advisories and Closures 2024 (Protection of Nesting Birds of Prey)

[Gavin]

Rob -

Closure buffers are usually measured in radius and not diameter.

Each agency - or even each location site within an agency - manages closures differently. When managers at given sites are setting up closures from scratch they often refer to different sites that already have established closures, and I have definitely given my thoughts / recommendations to different organizations and sites based on what works at Pinnacles. But obviously the extent of closures depends a lot on local conditions, threatened / endangered or just sensitive species listings and regulations, and the individual managers that maintain the closures.

[mungeclimber]

Thx, figured there would still be a lot of variability despite the nps having years of data to leverage.

[Gavin]

Hey everyone - just a heads up that I have lifted closures on almost all climbing routes / areas in the park. The Yaks area is still affected by closures due to an active condor nest in the area, but all other areas are open.

Let me know if you have questions. The temps have been surprisingly mild recently - only mid 80s the first part of this week - but I keep anticipating the prolonged return of intense heat soon!

[mungeclimber]

Thx, as always!

[JC w KC redux]

anticipating the prolonged return of intense heat soon!

Too bad the birds don't feel this way. Breeding season needs to be during the most intense heat eh?

Then you wouldn't have to post closures anymore 

[Gavin]

Hey Everyone -

I've just posted closure updates for January 2023. Give the text a look and let me know if you have questions or revisions I might have missed.

Note that I have instituted a few changes. All routes at Tuff Dome and H&L Dome are open. The routes on the north face of Hawkins Peak (in the Flakes area, near Where's Waldo, etc.) and on the east face (Feather Canyon, etc.) are the main areas that falcons usually nest so those are closed as usual.

I have also left routes on Teapot Dome and Ball Pinnacle open. In most years falcons nest on The Egg or nearby, so initially I will assume they will focus on that location again.

I have put The Hand under closures because a peregrine falcon pair nested there last year. The Frog and other nearby formations are still open.

[F4?]

Thanks for the update.

Curious to see how the nesting goes with all of this rain.

[JC w KC redux]

At a glance I did not see any issues. Thanks as always for being so accurately selective and clear.

I'm sure F4 will be overjoyed that you listed Piglet.

Everything is listed twice when I look at it but that is a separate and personal issue.

[F4?]

Piglet needs to stay open.

Working on a film project of a ascent of Piglet!
Kinda like free solo…

[JC w KC redux]

Hey Gavin,
Kat noticed something puzzling that I missed.
Bynum's is listed as sensitive, yet areas and formations near it and accessed by going past/around it are not.
Is this a typo/mistake?

[clink]

F4 is sensitive

[Gavin]

Hey Gavin,
Kat noticed something puzzling that I missed.
Bynum's is listed as sensitive, yet areas and formations near it and accessed by going past/around it are not.
Is this a typo/mistake?

Kat is correct - Bynum's Spire should be listed as open. I just made the revision. Thanks for catching that!

[Gavin]

Hey All -

I updated closures today - I will try to get the corresponding lists updated on the FOP and NPS sites tomorrow as well.

We have had a few falcon nest failures... It is late enough in the season that the falcon pairs are unlikely to try again with late season re-nesting efforts. As a result, I've opened a few notable areas for climbing, including Balconies routes from Peregrine north (including Lava Falls, Shake & Bake, etc.), all Resurrection Wall routes, and all routes on Egg.

If we do see falcons trying to reuse any of these areas for nesting I'll update closures accordingly.

I'm planning to remove the closure sign near Smiling Simian tomorrow.

[Gavin]

Hey Everyone -

All climbing advisories and closures are officially lifted as of today (June 29). It looks like the temperatures will be cooking over the weekend, but then we may see somewhat cooler temps after that. It's certainly been a mild year here up to this point!

[NOAL]

105 on Saturday!  Stay cool Gavin.

[clink]

 An unseasonable “not Pinnacle’s season” so far. It’s been nice for hiking. It had a tourists chance in Sudan of lasting.

[Brad Young]

105 on Saturday!  Stay cool Gavin.

Dude, really??!!

The man positively DEFINES cool. No need to tell him the obvious.

[Gavin]

Hey All -

Seasonal closures are back in effect today, as usual the day after MLK Day.

The closure list is pretty similar to last year's, with closures in effect at the cliffs and formations you would expect. The Hand is closed initially, as we've had falcons nesting out there in recent years. But the Frog, Crud 'n Mud, etc. are all open. Tuff Dome, H&L Dome, and Bynum's Spire are open. Feather Canyon and related climbs are closed. Machete is fully open. Most of Citadel is open, except the southwest and south end trails / climbs as noted in recent years. Please steer clear of those spots to encourage falcons to nest there again.

Let me know if you have questions or see things I missed, and thanks for the support!

[clink]

 Thank you for another year of communication and managing the closures Gavin! How many years is it now?

[Gavin]

20 years so far!