Climbing Advisories and Closures 2024 (Protection of Nesting Birds of Prey)

[F4?]

Nice day today.

Bummer I had forgotten the Yaks were open as we were close.

[mynameismud]

We are thinking of heading up to the upper area to finish up some projects if anyone is interested.

[F4?]

I wish.

Stop by afterwards.

[NOAL]

 I really like the poster about climbing and bird closures that is in the bulletin board at the trailheads. Worth taking the time to stop and look at the photos and read. It is very well thought out.(and of course the photos are nice)  Good job.

[Gavin]

I really like the poster about climbing and bird closures that is in the bulletin board at the trailheads. Worth taking the time to stop and look at the photos and read. It is very well thought out.(and of course the photos are nice)  Good job.

Thanks, Noal! The advisory list on the bulletin board posters needs updating, and I'll get to it when I can... The large-format printer for the posters is finicky, so I never relish the idea of coaxing completed posters out of it. But at least the advisory list is current on this thread, at FOP, and in the advisory handouts in the visitor centers.

[Gavin]

Hey All -

Just a heads-up; I'll cross-post this on its own thread as well.

A temporary closure is in effect at the south half of Machete Ridge, covering all climbs from Pigeon Crack to the Hideout. This includes Derringer and Old Original. Note that this is a mandatory closure, not just a climbing advisory, and any visitors can be cited just for being found in the closure area. Closure signs clearly mark the access paths around the south side of Machete Ridge, past Corona and Dos Equis (both of which remain open).

The temporary closure was put into effect by park managers to protect sensitive wildlife from human disturbance, after several climbing parties were observed climbing on Old Original after the area was placed under the Climbing Advisories since late March. If you’d like more information, you can call the park at 831-389-4319 x276. Thanks!

[wbuckingham]

Can anyone direct me to one or more bolt ladders that are NOT part of the current closures? Or actually a crack would be good too....just not one that is usually busy.

[mungeclimber]

Bridwell Bolts on Monolith

[clink]

Mechanic's, bolt ladder and great views

Trauma or Jorgie's for crack.

[JC w KC redux]

Bill's Bad Bolts, Rock Around the Clock, Los Banditos

The Hand has a bolt ladder.

South Yak - South Face

[wbuckingham]

Bill's Bad Bolts, Rock Around the Clock, Los Banditos

These routes are open? I thought they were part of the closure?

Oh and thanks for the replies!

[JC w KC redux]

These routes are open? I thought they were part of the closure?

Oh and thanks for the replies!

The EAST face of Machete and the southern end/portion of the west face is closed starting with Pigeon Crack and wrapping around the southern end (toward Old Original) - Pigeon Crack, Crackaphobia, Son of Dawn etc - all closed.
I double-checked with Gavin.
The West face of Machete is wide open starting from Destiny Wall and going climber's left (north).
If you have a specific hit list that you're still not sure about - just post here or message Gavin and he will give you the go, no-go. Don't hesitate to ask 

[wbuckingham]

I just read upthread that bills bad bolts and rock around the clock are "sensitive." That doesn't mean closed?

Edit:

Additionally the FOP page lists both "Machete Ridge" and "Machete Ridge (east face)" as closed.

[JC w KC redux]

I just read upthread that bills bad bolts and rock around the clock are "sensitive." That doesn't mean closed?

Edit:

Additionally the FOP page lists both "Machete Ridge" and "Machete Ridge (east face)" as closed.

I copied and pasted from the current list on this sticky (top of the thread).
The bolt ladders are on the west face.
I just emailed Gavin about this yesterday to confirm that those routes are okay to climb.
They are also shady in the early am.

Machete Ridge
CLOSED: All climbs from Pigeon Crack to Hideout, including Derringer and Old Original
Okay: All climbs from Cuidado! and Machete Descent to Dos Equis and Corona

[wbuckingham]

Ok thanks for the help.

So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?

[JC w KC redux]

Ok thanks for the help.

So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?

No problem - happy to help.
We want to make sure folks are well informed.
Unfortunately we can't say the rest.
We have seen some evolving differences over the last few years.
Gavin has lifted some areas early the last couple years and now we are experiencing an "unusual" closure with Machete's east side. Gavin and Alacia spend untold hours evaluating sites each season.
Best thing to do is check over what is posted at the beginning of this sticky and then if you have any questions - just ask.
Check the rebolting master list sticky too - Bruce and Clint have revamped several of the bolt ladders.

[Gavin]

Ok thanks for the help.

So for future reference when the closures begin and it says "the closures are pretty much the same as last year," what it means is 2012 and not the prior year (2015 in this case)?

Building on what JC said, thanks for asking for clarifications. I try to keep the sticky at the beginning of the thread updated with current conditions and noted by date. Following that, I try to give heads-up posts at the end of the thread listing the most current open/closed conditions for different areas. Feel free to send me a PM too if you still have questions. Thanks!

[wbuckingham]

Oh i see! Thanks for clarifying gavin. I kept thinking that was four year old closure info because of the dates on the posts!

Machete ridge here i come.

[JC w KC redux]

Oh i see! Thanks for clarifying gavin. I kept thinking that was four year old closure info because of the dates on the posts!

Machete ridge here i come.

wbuckingham - I understand your hesitation now. The date you were looking at is the date the sticky thread was first created.

Gavin - perhaps put the updated date at the beginning and end of your "front" page and bold it.
That way people will see the updated date as soon as they start reviewing the list and again if they read the whole thing.

I keep the date at the top of my rebolting master list - I bolded it to catch more attention.

[Gavin]

Good call, JC. The "front" page now has header and footer in bold with date of latest closure revisions.

wbuckingham - Happy to help. Have fun at Machete!