Climbing Advisories and Closures 2024 (Protection of Nesting Birds of Prey)

[Gavin]

Updated 19 November 2024

The Raptor Advisory System has been in effect since 1988. We would like to thank you for your assistance in protecting these magnificent birds. By coming to Pinnacles and following these recommendations, you become a partner in managing the Park's resources. You are a vital component to the success of maintaining raptors. Without your cooperation, park staff could not protect the natural resources. You help make Pinnacles a special place.

Sensitive Areas
Please refrain from any rock climbing or off-trail activity within the boundaries of the following routes. Climbing routes are listed to provide orientation to sensitive areas and may not be all inclusive.
Thank you for your cooperation in the Park's efforts to protect these magnificent Natural Resources. If you have any questions, please contact a Ranger or call Research and Resource Management (831-389-4486 x4279).

Balconies / Crowley
Sensitive: None
Okay: All on Balconies, Crowley Towers, Stronghold

Machete Ridge
CLOSED: All routes on southwest face to east face, from Son of Dawn Wall to The Hideout
Okay: All routes on the west face north, from Corona north past Cuidado! to Barber's Backside

High Peaks:
Citadel
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Egg
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Hawkins Peak
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Tunnel Trail and Central High Peaks
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Resurrection Wall / Goat Rock
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Scout Peak:
Beak Peak
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes
Generation Gap Pinnacle
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Gargoyle Area
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Marmot / Yaks Area (Little Pinnacles)
Sensitive: All Yaks routes, plus Marauder
Okay: Marmot Rocks (excluding Marauder), all Hanging Valley routes

Reservoir
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Pipsqueak Pinnacles
Sensitive: None
Okay: All routes

Updated 19 November 2024

[F4?]

Nice job Gavin for being....crystal clear on what's open and not.

[mungeclimber]

huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.

[F4?]

Insert Quote
huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.

Always a critic in the crowd...

[Gavin]

huh, I always thought Bongloadash was part of the Balconies closure.

Munge, you are correct: Bongloadash, If We Bolt It..., and Happy Hamlin's... are also in the initial closures, as are all routes on Crowley... I missed that, and I'll change that in future lists. Thanks for the keen eye!

And thanks for the support, F4!

[mungeclimber]

drats! and I would have got away with it, if it wasn't for that meddling munge and his climbing buddies!

 

[Gavin]

drats! and I would have got away with it, if it wasn't for that meddling munge and his climbing buddies!

 

Heh heh. Seriously, though, I appreciate the critical eye... It will make for more accurate closure lists in the future.

[F4?]

Good god....why would someone go do if we bolt it...that sucker gets way too hot.

[joe]

I guess I missed this....
Old Original is open?

any preliminary ideas on who is nesting where?

[waldo]

I usually nest in the parking lot, though few have brought me beers lately.

[F4?]

I usually nest in the parking lot, though few have brought me beers lately.

nice, but if it's super cold....my favorite place is next to the fireplace @ the Inn @ Pinnacles.

[Gavin]

I guess I missed this....
Old Original is open?

any preliminary ideas on who is nesting where?

Joe, Old Original is open... If memory serves, I don't think it has ever been part of the closure lists. There are some potential cavity nest sites in the area, but none have ever been documented as being used by falcons.

As for preliminary ideas... It is still a bit far off to be certain, but it looks like some of the usual areas will definitely be used for nesting, such as Hawkins Peak (by the resident peregrine falcon pair), Egg / Chaos Crag, Balconies (two prairie falcon pairs look interested), Machete, Crowley, and Goat / Resurrection Wall.

More details will be forthcoming when the birds finally decide on nest sites.

I do think there will be some areas opening up for sure, but I want to wait until the falcons begin incubating eggs before I make it official.

[JC w KC redux]

Gavin or anyone else,
can you tell me if Bynum's, Dragonfly, the Cone or Pyramid Pinnacle are okay to climb right now?
It looks like they sit in between the sensitive areas.
thanks!

[mynameismud]

Bynum's is closed.

Gavin or anyone else,
can you tell me if Bynum's, Dragonfly, the Cone or Pyramid Pinnacle are okay to climb right now?
It looks like they sit in between the sensitive areas.
thanks!

[JC w KC redux]

Bynum's is closed.

thanks Mud - whoops! sorry - I see that listed under Hawkins Peak now. Any idea about the others?
and do you know what the etc. below includes?
Okay: Spike’s Peak, Big Step, The Lump, etc.
Okay: Sponge
others around the Sponge? Burgundy, Piglet, Sow

[mynameismud]

Looks like the Sponge and Spikes Peak is open.
Here is a link to the map

http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/upload/January-2012-Advisory-Handout-And-Map.pdf

thanks Mud - whoops! sorry - I see that listed under Hawkins Peak now. Any idea about the others?
and do you know what the etc. below includes?
Okay: Spike’s Peak, Big Step, The Lump, etc.
Okay: Sponge
others around the Sponge? Burgundy, Piglet, Sow

[JC w KC redux]

thanks Mud - I had the pdf map and listing already but I appreciate you trying to help. I sent Gavin a PM to see if he has any more specifics.

[mynameismud]

Send Brad a PM to, he always has a good handle on this.

[Gavin]

thanks Mud - I had the pdf map and listing already but I appreciate you trying to help. I sent Gavin a PM to see if he has any more specifics.

Sorry for the delayed reply; I've been out climbing today on the east side and just got this message... I'll try to clarify some of the advisory information.

Sponge and Spike's Peak are open. Areas around Sponge like Burgundy Dome, Piglet and Sow are also open. Formations just north and east of Spike's Peak - Dragonfly, Eggshell, Freedom Dome, Disintegration Pinnacles - are likewise also open. Pot and Peyote Pinnacles are also open. The areas around Frothy and Frosted Flakes - east towards Smokestack, southeast towards Mama and Papa Bears and Chuck and Carol, southwest towards Tuff and H&L Domes, and towards Feather Canyon - tend to be where the peregrine falcon pair is specifically focused, and where historic nest nests are located. Hence, all these areas are part of the advisory area at Hawkins. The open areas listed above are either far enough distant, or out of view enough, that the falcons have no territorial issues with climbers.

As for the "etc." after Lump and Big Step... I think this was initially written in reference to climbs further east and southeast, but it is vague; I'll drop this word in future advisory listings.

I hope all that helps!

[Gavin]

Hey All -

I'll send out a formal list to Mr Mud soon for an official update, but most falcons have finally selected nests, and there are some updates... No new closures, but definitely some openings.

Some of the areas that will be opening up:
- the central and north parts of Balconies, from Conduit to Nexus
- all of the central High Peaks (Condor Crag, Fingers, etc.)
- Goat Rock, Shaft, Beak Peak, Scout Peak, Generation Gap Pinnacle
- Pipsqueak Pinnacle

The partial advisory at Machete will stay into effect. I still need to nail down falcon status at the Yaks Wall... More on that when I get conclusive observations.

Let me know if you have questions and I'll try to reply as I can!