Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

If the rap is 95 feet than I got a heck of a deal on my 165' (50m) rope.  BTW, for those of us who still use 50m ropes the difference between 80' and 95' is significant.  It is important to get that distance as correct as possible.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Clint and I reworked the rappel off of North Condor Crag by lengthening the chains a bit.  It was dark when we rapped off so we just went down to the anchor between the two summits and continued rapping from there.  With the longer chains you might be able to get down to the anchor just above the crux crack, but it is probably best that the guidebook recommend that you rappel 50' to the anchor between the two summits and then continue rapping from there.  Otherwise the rope might not pull.

[F4?]

Thanks Bruce. Yeah, the chains were a but short. Breaking the rappel into 2x makes it easier.

[Brad Young]

I added a correction today to the route “Solotero Pina Especial” as follows:

33.  Correction, page 131, (route 324, “Solotero Pina Especial”):  There is a strong consensus that this route is 5.8 not 5.7 (the crux is getting to the first bolt).

[JC w KC redux]

I added a correction today to the route “Solotero Pina Especial” as follows:

33.  Correction, page 131, (route 324, “Solotero Pina Especial”):  There is a strong consensus that this route is 5.8 not 5.7 (the crux is getting to the first bolt).

The crux is getting past the first bolt. Getting to it is easy.

[clink]

Getting over it?

[JC w KC redux]

Getting over it?

Nope. Getting past it. Don't worry, you'll get over it.

[Brad Young]

Fixed.

[JC w KC redux]

Fixed.

Nice. We don't have to worry about clink getting to it, around it, past it or over it - he doesn't climb other people's routes! 

[Brad Young]

Nice. We don't have to worry about clink getting to it, around it, past it or over it - he doesn't climb other people's routes!     :purr:

OMFFFG - pot/kettle (lately).

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Just a couple of corrections:

1) Page 52 - topo shows three bolt anchors on top at 56/57/58 and 66/67.  These are
now two bolt anchors.

2) page 56 - topo shows two bolt anchor at 86.  Four of us looked for about 10 minutes and we could not find this anchor or any traces of an anchor.

3) Page 52 - we replaced a bolt stud in the vicinity of the top of 59.  There is now a single bolt to provide a directional to the finish of route 59 and the two bolt anchor at 56/57/58

[JC w KC redux]

Just a couple of corrections:

1) Page 52 - topo shows three bolt anchors on top at 56/57/58 and 66/67.  These are
now two bolt anchors.

2) page 56 - topo shows two bolt anchor at 86.  Four of us looked for about 10 minutes and we could not find this anchor or any traces of an anchor.

3) Page 52 - we replaced a bolt stud in the vicinity of the top of 59.  There is now a single bolt to provide a directional to the finish of route 59 and the two bolt anchor at 56/57/58

Thanks Bruce. I didn't want to try and explain that on the rebolting master list.

[Brad Young]

I added correction number 34 today:

34.  Correction, page 146, (route 367, “Little Flatiron - North Chimney”):  This route was named “North Chimney” decades ago.  But it isn’t really a chimney, it’s much better described as a slot.  So, although the name will stay the same, future descriptions will use the word slot, instead of the word chimney.  More critically, this 70 foot route really should have a fifth class rating.  It is 5.4 R.  It is possible to use cams in the slot portion of the climb, although these provide only so-so protection for the slot and no protection at all for the upper slab.

[JC w KC redux]

I added correction number 34 today:

34.  Correction, page 146, (route 367, “Little Flatiron - North Chimney”):  This route was named “North Chimney” decades ago.  But it isn’t really a chimney, it’s much better described as a slot.  So, although the name will stay the same, future descriptions will use the word slot, instead of the word chimney.  More critically, this 70 foot route really should have a fifth class rating.  It is 5.3 R.  It is possible to use cams in the slot portion of the climb, although these provide only so-so protection for the slot and no protection at all for the upper slab.

I wrote 5.4 with minimal pro in my climbing log - a green and yellow alien and a couple of sling knobs.

[Brad Young]

I wrote 5.4 with minimal pro in my climbing log - a green and yellow alien and a couple of sling knobs.

Well, it might be 5.3d R 

I'll go with 5.4 R if you think that's better. What say you?

[JC w KC redux]

Well, it might be 5.3d R 

I'll go with 5.4 R if you think that's better. What say you?

Probably okay either way - just giving feedback- that was with me leading and input from clink and Missy on the follow.

[Brad Young]

Probably okay either way - just giving feedback- that was with me leading and input from clink and Missy on the follow.

I was in approach shoes and so maybe not as well positioned to judge. I changed it 

[JC w KC redux]

I was in approach shoes and so maybe not as well positioned to judge. I changed it 

It was my first climb of the day and they were following.
Either rating gives folks a heads up.
I had in my notes that nelkins soloed up the other route while we were doing that.

[Brad Young]

I made a correction to the route Crud and Mud - East Side (correction # 35). J.C. please review and edit/comment.

[JC w KC redux]

I made a correction to the route Crud and Mud - East Side (correction # 35). J.C. please review and edit/comment.

Looks great.