Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook

[clink]

"Good point. And all of J.C.s "new" 5.10 leads would be in Bear Gulch; there wouldn't be a Pinnacles West Side at all"

 We'll have the rest of the park to ourselves. Why don't you title it "The 50 Best Climbs on the West's Worst Rock" That will keep them away.

CMac wrights guidebooks??

Roper, Steck, and Young wright guidebooks

[NOAL]

and the book would fit in the back pocket of a cool climber's jeans.

I like those old small guides that can fit in your pocket.  Roper guides and Urioste Red Rock guide are awesome.  The only thing is I am always afraid I am gonna mangle the things. 

[JC w KC redux]

The only guy I know that consistently wears jeans to climb keeps falling off stuff

[squiddo]

The only guy I know that consistently wears jeans to climb keeps falling off stuff

Saw Kauk float 5.12 in jeans. Then again, he could float 5.12 in a hula

[F4?]

I like a guide book that can also serve as a sitting pad.

And a few blank pages at the end for "nature notes" is always good to have.

Oddly, I haven't carried a guide in years.

Plus my new pack that can't possible fit the guide.

[clink]

right?

I don't  hesitate to tear pages out of the super topo  and take with us on anything over 1 pitch.

 F4, I use pine cones or my britches when I run out of mountain money, and try to let my partner carry the guide.

[mungeclimber]

pine cones?!??!?!?

 

[clink]

I prefer the variety of cone found at 9,500 north fork @ Whitney Portal.

Getting a sick climber off the mountain.

[Brad Young]

I added correction number 25 to the list just now (regarding The Sisters).

[F4?]

F4, I use pine cones or my britches when I run out of mountain money, and try to let my partner carry the guide.

Savage!

In 4H they never told us pine cones.

Yes, best to let the partner carry the guide.

[Brad Young]

I added correction/change/clarifications numbers 26, 27 and 28 today.

[mungeclimber]

4 new routes for the price of 1!!!

Deal at half the price!

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

Brad,

when we went up to Kasparek's we followed the approach map in the guidebook.  We did not
find an obvious way to get to the formation from directly across from .  Instead, we followed
the path noted in the guidebook all the way to the Toilet Seat then headed southeast and down
to Kasparek's.

Also, on the way out, we found that it was much easier to go down(and supposedly go up) the
hillside between Kasperek's and the Goal Posts.

Bruce

[kylequeener]

Corrections for route 102 Forty Days of Rain

The current guidebook gives this route three stars which is by definition a total Pinnacles classic. I believe each star has a meaning if its to be taken seriously. The first star would have to be for it being hard, the second for it being painful and the third for it being scary (in regards to bolt placement and quality). By far the worst 5.12 route at Pinnacles. It's a unique climb for sure but the bottom portion is quite a junk show, the bolting is the best it could be given the route but its still quite terrible, the fall at the crux is a bummer, if you fall while clipping the last bolt you'll deck and the last bolt is in such a position that a carabiner acts as a fulcrum point and levers out on the bolt or possibly damages the carabiner during a fall.

In short, this climb should not be included in the new the SuperTopo guide book and Brad would do good to remove two stars from its current rating.






I'm sorta joking around here, but then again I'm sorta being serious.

[mungeclimber]

new the SuperTopo guide book

I actually wouldn't be surprised by a SuperTopo select for Pinnacles.

[mynameismud]

I think 40 days is 3 stars.  It is a bit loose at the bottom but the necessary holds are fine.  I have not had an issue with fear of decking but then I put a cam in the crack.  Haven fallen at the crux a few times I will say it is a casual fall.  The setting is just too cool to get one star.  I guess I could see two stars but one seems a bit too much.

[kylequeener]

Okay, two stars I could agree with.

Nonetheless I'm glad to be done with it. It might feel more solid in the roof if you don't have girl hands like me. I did the cam thing at first but it just got in the way and the bolt is right there anyways.

I guess I should clarify that falling on bolt two was the bad fall spot, not on the 3rd. I guess that area is the crux for most but my skinny fingers and hands have a hard time getting into the roof crack. Once I grab the lip its all cruiser from there.

Also, I wouldn't be surprised to see a select book for Pinnacles but I would be surprised to see SuperTopo publishing it. 

[clink]

Tom said that route had lost a good hold at some point. The picture of him dangling from the lip is worth a star by itself.

[mynameismud]

the flake came out of the crack that goes out the roof.

[mungeclimber]

Tom said that route had lost a good hold at some point. The picture of him dangling from the lip is worth a star by itself.

For reference purposes:

Credit to T. Corcoran for original image...
Back cover of 1991 Rubine guidebook