Re: Author's official corrections to the new guidebook

[Aaron McDonald]

I led Sheepish - sketchy gear that quickly becomes useless after you leave the big knob shown on the topo and climb up through the runout on poor quality rock.
I imagine the rock quality is probably the same or worse above the crux of Lonesome.
The beefy single bolt anchor way up could be used to TR Lonesome.
I heard tell of a climber much better than myself who backed off Lonesome.

That is a free solo

[JC w KC redux]

That is a free solo

Really? I thought X meant Xcellent!

[clink]

X is where you sign your name to add me to your will. Please add me. I will place a commemorative plaque on the spot you land on.

[Bruce Hildenbrand]

A couple of things worth noting for the next edition...

-big poison oak bush at the start of the regular route on Tuff Dome

-poison oak bush just to the left of the start of the first pitch of Lucky 13

-if you are doing Tuff Dome Traverse, there is no bolt anchor on top of Tuff Dome.  There is a good, square knob which you can tie off, but no bolts.

[Brad Young]

A couple of things worth noting for the next edition…

And do you have a specific date on which you intend to start that next edition?

[JC w KC redux]

-if you are doing Tuff Dome Traverse, there is no bolt anchor on top of Tuff Dome.  There is a good, square knob which you can tie off, but no bolts.

Great minds think alike

I used a body position belay at the top backed up by a large, solid sling knob on the northwest edge.

[cobbledik]

And do you have a specific date on which you intend to start that next edition?

The gauntlet has been thrown! C'mon whippersnapper! Time to follow in Brad's footsteps!

[squiddo]

And do you have a specific date on which you intend to start that next edition?

LOL, are you officially retiring from Guidebook Authoring?

[Brad Young]

LOL, are you officially retiring from Guidebook Authoring?

Retired, not retiring.

[mynameismud]

Retired, not retiring.

It will not last.

[JC w KC redux]

The gauntlet has been thrown! C'mon whippersnapper! Time to follow in Brad's footsteps!

I've been in touch lately with Chris McNamara about co-authoring a supertopo guide to Pinnacles.

[squiddo]

I've been in touch lately with Chris McNamara about co-authoring a supertopo guide to Pinnacles.

oh boy, hold on making some popcorn for this one! 

[Brad Young]

I've been in touch lately with Chris McNamara about co-authoring a supertopo guide to Pinnacles.

That's actually a great idea. And I can see how you'd personally benefit from exactly that kind of a guidebook.

It goes like this: by the time you two are done with that type of guidebook you'll have led bunches of 5.10b routes. Not that you'll have done routes that are actually 5.10b mind you. Instead, in such a book, most or all of the 5.9 routes yo've actually done will be "adjusted" to be 5.10.

Hey, I just realized that I'll benefit too, since all my hardest Pinns leads will be 5.12!!

(Really liken' this idea…).

[NOAL]

Bunches?  I thought those supertopo guides only have about an 1/4 of the routes that are in your book.

[squiddo]

Bunches?  I thought those supertopo guides only have about an 1/4 of the routes that are in your book.

:-) Less

[Brad Young]

Bunches?  I thought those supertopo guides only have about an 1/4 of the routes that are in your book.

Good point. And all of J.C.s "new" 5.10 leads would be in Bear Gulch; there wouldn't be a Pinnacles West Side at all, and the book would fit in the back pocket of a cool climber's jeans.

(And there are parts of the Supertopo Guidebooks that I like - but their upgrading routes isn't one of those.)

[JC w KC redux]

in such a book, most or all of the 5.9 routes yo've actually done will be "adjusted" to be 5.10.

So what you're saying is there is YDS and then there is STDS? Sounds like some type of disease.

the book would fit in the back pocket of a cool climber's jeans.

The cool climbers I know wear swiss cheese pants

[squiddo]

So what you're saying is there is YDS and then there is STDS? Sounds like some type of disease.

The cool climbers I know wear swiss cheese pants

Is he talking about skinny jeans? That and some cool hipster glasses

[cobbledik]

Bah! A supertopo guide wouldn't have aid. Pfft! Who wants to free climb when you can get concentrated fear in a set of ladders?

[squiddo]

Bah! A supertopo guide wouldn't have aid. Pfft! Who wants to free climb when you can get concentrated fear in a set of ladders?

I've been working with munge and Chris on ad supertopo for BASE jumping..